The men's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It was held from August 3 to August 5, 2021, at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. A total of 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

During the qualifying round, Bassa Mawem of France suffered an injury to his lower bicep tendon in his left arm and was forced to withdraw from the final.

Qualification

Competition format In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each other's in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Final rounds. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest to the top winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.

Records Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

The following records were established during the competition: DateRoundClimberNationTimeRecordAugust 3Speed QualificationBassa Mawem5.45

Schedule All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date Time Round Tuesday, 3 August 2021 17:00 Speed Qualification18:00Bouldering Qualification21:10Lead Qualification Thursday, 5 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final18:30Bouldering Final21:10Lead Final

Results Qualification The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the Finals.

RankClimberNationSpeedBoulderingLead Total Notes1234Results 1 Mickaël Mawem 5.95 7.75 3 T2z2 T1z1 T1z1 z1 3T4z 4 5 1 28+ 2:24 11 33.00 2 Tomoa Narasaki 5.94 2 T2z1 T4z4 z1 z1 2T4z 6 7 2 26+ 2:11 14 56.00 3 Colin Duffy 6.23 6.85 6 T10z6 – T7z6 – 2T2z 17 12 5 42+ 4:44 2 60.00 4 Jakob Schubert 6.70 6.94 12 z9 – z3 T2z1 1T3z 2 13 7 42+ 4:02 1 84.00 5 Adam Ondra 7.46 8.16 18 T4z4 – z4 T3z3 2T3z 7 11 3 39+ 4 216.00 6 6.48 6.32 7 – – T12z4 – 1T1z 12 4 14 41+ 3 294.00 7 Bassa Mawem 5.45 5.67 1 z4 – – – 0T1z 0 4 18 7 20 360.00 8 Nathaniel Coleman 6.51 6.52 10 z1 – T4z3 z2 1T3z 4 6 11 39 5 550.00 9 Alexander Megos 9.89 7.47 19 T2z1 z6 z7 z1 1T4z 2 15 6 36+ 6 684.00 10 Chon Jong-won 6.21 Fall 5 z4 – T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 10 10 26+ 2:34 16 800.00 11 Rishat Khaibullin 6.90 6.19 4 – – z3 – 0T1z 0 3 17 28+ 3:09 13 884.00 12 Jan Hojer 6.63 Fall 11 z2 – T3z3 z3 1T3z 3 8 9 29+ 9 891.00 13 Aleksey Rubtsov 8.09 7.23 16 T6z3 – – T1z1 2T2z 7 4 4 26+ 2:29 15 960.00 14 Pan Yufei 8.63 7.59 20 T2z2 – z12 z1 1T3z 2 15 8 36 7 1120.00 15 Michael Piccolruaz 6.33 6.46 8 T5z5 – z2 – 1T2z 5 7 13 28+ 2:33 12 1248.00 16 Christopher Cosser 6.48 7.55 9 z7 – z8 – 0T2z 0 15 16 29 10 1440.00 17 Sean McColl 9.18 6.93 14 z2 – z1 – 0T2z 0 3 15 35+ 8 1680.00 18 Kai Harada Fall 7.08 15 T4z1 – z7 – 1T2z 4 8 12 25+ 17 3060.00 19 Ludovico Fossali 6.71 7.39 13 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 2:48 18 4563.00 20 Tom O'Halloran 7.34 12.20 17 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 19.5 25 3:58 19 6298.50

Final Rank Climber Nation Speed Bouldering Lead Total Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals 1 2 3 Results 2 7 12 1 z1 z7 z1 0T3z 0 9 7 38+ 4 28 Nathaniel Coleman 4 6 10 6 T1z1 T3z2 z1 2T3z 4 4 1 34+ 5 30 Jakob Schubert 3 6 9 7 T1z1 z5 z1 1T3z 1 7 5 Top 1 35 4 Tomoa Narasaki 3 8 12 2 T1z1 z3 z1 1T3z 1 5 3 33+ 6 36 5 Mickaël Mawem 4 8 11 3 T1z1 z1 z1 1T3z 1 3 2 23+ 7 42 6 Adam Ondra 1 7 11 4 T2z1– z1 1T2z 2 2 6 42+ 2 48 7 Colin Duffy 2 5 10 5 T1z1 z3 z1 1T3z 1 5 4 40 3 60 8 Bassa Mawem* 1 5 9 8– ––88512 * Injured and could not compete.

References