The women's combined event at the 2020 Summer Olympics was a climbing competition combining three disciplines (speed, bouldering, lead). It took place between 4 and 6 August 2021 at the Aomi Urban Sports Park in Tokyo. 20 athletes from 15 nations competed. Sport climbing was one of four new sports added to the Olympic program for 2020.

The medals for the competition were presented by Ivo Ferriani, IOC Executive Member, Italy, Olympian; and the medalists' bouquets were presented by Marco Maria Scolaris, IFSC President; Italy.

Qualification

Competition format In the qualification round each of the twenty competitors competed in speed climbing, bouldering and lead climbing. The scores were multiplied and the 8 competitors with the lowest total scores proceeded to the finals.

In speed climbing, climbers raced against each others in pairs on a standardized wall of 15m in height. In the qualification round, climbers had two runs on two different lanes; their best times were recorded and used for seeding placement in the Finals. In the final round, climbers raced head-to-head with the fastest winning.

In bouldering, climbers needed to top boulder problems set on 4.5m-high wall within a certain amount of time. In the qualification round, climbers were faced with 4 boulder problems and given 5 minutes on each problem to top them. The final round had 3 boulder problems to top within a 4 minutes time limit.

In lead climbing, climbers were given a route set on 15m-high wall to top within 6 minutes. If there was a tie, the climber with the fastest elapsed time won.

Route-setting Speed climbing wall is standardized: 15 meters tall, 5 degrees overhanging. Bouldering and lead climbing have route-setting teams.

The bouldering route-setters were Percy Bishton (chief) from the United Kingdom, Manuel Hassler from Switzerland, Romain Cabessut from France and Garrett Gregor from the United States.

The lead route-setters were Adam Pustelnik (chief) from Poland, Jan Zbranek from Czech Republic, Hiroshi Okano and Akito Matsushima from Japan.

Records Prior to this competition, the existing world and Olympic records were as follows.

The following records were established during the competition: DateRoundClimberNationTimeRecordAugust 4Speed QualificationAleksandra Mirosław6.97August 6Speed FinalAleksandra Mirosław6.84WR

Schedule All times are Japan Standard Time (UTC+9)

Date Time Round Wednesday, 4 August 2021 17:00 Speed Qualification18:00Bouldering Qualification21:10Lead Qualification Friday, 6 August 2021 17:30 Speed Final18:30Bouldering Final21:10Lead Final

Results Qualification The top 8 climbers of 20 advanced to the finals.

RankClimberNationSpeedBoulderingLead TotalNotes1234Results 1 Janja Garnbret 9.44 10.32 14 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 T1z1 4T4z 4 4 1 30 4 56.00 2 Seo Chae-hyun 10.01 11.74 17 T3z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 5 5 5 40+ 1 85.00 3 Miho Nonaka 7.55 7.74 4 T2z1 z1 z1 – 1T3z 2 3 8 30+ 3 96.00 4 Akiyo Noguchi 8.27 8.23 9 T2z1 z1 T2z1 T1z1 3T4z 5 4 3 27+ 6 162.00 5 Brooke Raboutou 8.67 8.81 12 T2z1 T1z1 z1 T1z1 3T4z 4 4 2 26+ 3:40 8 192.00 6 Jessica Pilz 8.51 8.63 11 T3z1 z3 z1 – 1T3z 3 5 9 33+ 2 198.00 7 Aleksandra Mirosław 6.97 7.01 1 – – – – 0T0z 0 0 20 12 19 380.00 8 Anouck Jaubert 7.12 7.29 2 T4z1 – – – 1T1z 4 1 13 16+ 2:14 15 390.00 9 Viktoria Meshkova 9.54 9.73 15 T6z1 T2z2 z1 z1 2T4z 8 5 6 29+ 5 450.00 10 Shauna Coxsey 9.65 10.07 16 T2z1 T1z1 z1 z1 2T4z 3 4 4 21+ 2:23 13 832.00 11 Kyra Condie 8.12 8.08 7 T4z1 – z1 z3 1T3z 4 5 11 22+ 11 847.00 12 Song Yiling 8.74 7.46 3 z5 – – – 0T1z 0 5 19 13+ 18 1026.00 13 Julia Chanourdie 8.43 8.17 8 z1 z7 z1 – 0T3z 0 9 15 25+ 9 1080.00 14 Alannah Yip 8.17 7.99 6 z1 – z1 – 0T2z 0 2 16 21+ 2:14 12 1152.00 15 Laura Rogora 10.50 Fall 19 z1 z2 T1z1 z1 1T4z 1 5 7 25 10 1330.00 16 Petra Klingler 8.42 8.67 10 T3z1 z3 z4 – 1T3z 3 8 10 16+ 1:49 14 1400.00 17 Iuliia Kaplina 7.65 Fall 5 z2 – – – 0T1z 0 2 18 14+ 17 1530.00 18 Mia Krampl 10.44 10.43 18 z1 z1 z1 z2 0T4z 0 5 14 26+ 3:16 7 1764.00 19 Oceana Mackenzie 8.83 9.38 13 T3z1 – z1 – 1T2z 3 2 12 15+ 16 2496.00 20 Erin Sterkenburg Fall 11.10 20 z1 – – – 0T1z 0 1 17 7+ 20 6800.00

Final

Rank Climber Nation Speed Bouldering Lead Total Quarterfinals Semifinals Finals 1 2 3 Results Janja Garnbret 3 6 10 5 T4z1 T1z1 z1 2T3z 5 3 1 37+ 1 5 Miho Nonaka 4 8 11 3 – z4 z1 0T2z 0 5 3 21 5 45 Akiyo Noguchi 2 7 11 4 z5 z2 – 0T2z 0 7 4 29+ 4 64 4 Aleksandra Mirosław 1 7 12 WR 1 – – – 0T0z 0 0 8 9+ 8 64 5 Brooke Raboutou 4 6 9 7 z5 z3 z2 0T3z 0 10 2 20+ 6 84 6 Anouck Jaubert 3 8 12 2 z2 – – 0T1z 0 2 6 13+ 7 84 7 Jessica Pilz 2 5 10 6 z7 z3 – 0T2z 0 10 5 34+ 3 90 8 Seo Chae-hyun 1 5 9 8 – – – 0T0z 0 0 7 35+ 2 112

References