Goyard () is a French trunk maker founded in 1853 in Paris. The company originated as Maison Morel, which was later acquired by François Goyard (1828-1890), establishing the Goyard family in the trade of trunk making and luxury packing. His son Edmond Goyard (1860-1937) expanded the brand and developed its reputation between 1885 and 1937. Robert Goyard (1893-1979) continued its growth, particularly in the post-war period. In 1998, Jean-Michel Signoles took over the Maison, contributing to its international expansion while maintaining its heritage and craftsmanship.
History Maison Morel Maison Morel was official purveyor to Marie-Caroline of Bourbon-Two Sicilies, Duchess of Berry,goyard.com Story an honour that granted it the title of "box maker, trunk maker and packer of Her Royal Highness The Duchess of Berry".Luxos Magazine, World traveller Devambez, Printemps Été 2010 p 85 Maison Martin's store sign featured references to the three traditional crafts of "box making, trunk making and packing" that were at the core of its business."Collection privée, Facture maison Martin de 1821" Pierre François Martin was the guardian of a young female ward, Pauline Moutat, and gave his business as her dowry. He was also instrumental in arranging her marriage to one of his employees, Louis-Henri Morel (1817–1852).Pierre Tzenkoff, Goyard, Malletier, Maison fondée en 1792, édition Devambez, 2010 p 20 Morel followed on Martin's footsteps, and introduced himself as the "Successor to former Maison Morel, located on rue Neuve-des-Capucines, near Place Vendôme."Collection privée,Facture maison Morel de 1846
In turn, Louis-Henri Morel, passed on his skills and knowledge to a seventeen-year-old apprentice by the name of François Goyard, whom he hired in 1845. The apprentice received a state-of-the-art training under the dual guidance of Pierre François Martin and Louis-Henri Morel. Monsieur Morel died suddenly on 24 August 1852.Collection Goyard,Carnet d'apprenti de François Goyard entré en apprentissage chez Louis-Henri Morel le 1er octobre 1845
Maison Goyard In a short time, the house's corporate name changed from Morel to Goyard, and from Goyard to Goyard Aîné (French for "elder", François being the firstborn among Goyard brothers), as to differentiate himself from his siblings. When he died, François Goyard left his son Edmond with a very reputable business with workshops in Bezons,Pierre Tzenkoff, Goyard, Malletier, Maison fondée en 1792, édition Devambez, 2010 p 24Gérard Arthus, Bezons du village à la ville, Éditions du Valhermeil a city in the northwestern suburbs of Paris.
In 1834, Pierre François Martin moved his store from 4, Rue Neuve des Capucines, where Louis Vuitton opened in 1854, to 347, rue Saint-Honoré.Paul-Gérard Pasols, Louis Vuitton Éditions de la Martinière p 51 On account of the new street numbering policy implemented in Paris in 1856, the address changed to 233, rue Saint-Honoré. His successors remained at this location at the corner of rue Saint-Honoré and rue de Castiglione, near Place Vendôme. After a thirty-two-year-tenure as head of business, François handed the company over to his 25-year-old eldest son Edmond on April 1, 1885. The house changed its name to E. Goyard Aîné.Collection privée,Contrat de vente du fonds de commerce de François Goyard à Edmond Goyard, 1"er" avril 1885
Edmond Goyard, drawing on his father François Goyard's work, turned the store on rue Saint-Honoré into an increasingly elitist luxury brand with an international clientele. He created the first Goyard advertisements, participated in various World Expositions and opened four branch stores. He also laid the foundations for the brand as we know it today, as he came up with the Goyardine canvas, launched a pet accessories range and developed products for automobiles. He partnered with his eldest son Robert, and together they ran E. Goyard Aîné et Fils (E.Goyard Elder and Son). Robert followed his father's footsteps and ran the business from 1937 to 1979.Pierre Tzenkoff, Goyard, Malletier, Maison fondée en 1792, édition Devambez, 2010 p 108
In 1998, a purchaser took over from the Goyard family: Jean-Michel Signoles, a keen collector of all things Goyard, undertook the challenge of reinventing Goyard with the help of his sons. Without the backing of a leading luxury brand group, he exploited the heritage of the house, built new workshops in Carcassonne, France, and opened retail stores all over the world.Frédéric Martin-Bertrand,L'artisanat retrouvé de Goyard, article du Figaro du 18–19 juin 2011
From Clamecy to Paris
The Goyards originated from Clamecy in Burgundy, where the family males had long worked as log drivers. They were members of the Compagnons de Rivière, a guild of transporters moving firewood to Paris.Pierre Tzenkoff, Goyard, Malletier, Maison fondée en 1792, édition Devambez, 2010 p 104Jean-Claude Martinet, Clamecy et ses flotteurs, Éditions de l'Armançon The family name "Goyard" derives from the French "goujard", also spelled "goyard". This sickle-like tool with a blade attached to a two-metre-long strong wooden handle was used by the Bourguignon people from the Aube area to cut thorns they would then transplant onto hedgerow stakes.Diderot et d'Alembert, Encyclopédie, ou Dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des art et des métier]
Edmé Goyard (1801–1879) moves to Paris
In 1832, a massive cholera epidemic decimated the population of Clamecy. On 17 December, Edmé Goyard's father died at the age of 72. His son subsequently left the hamlet with his wife and two sons, François and Claude, who were respectively four and two-years old. The family settled down in Paris and soon welcomed another son, Martin, who was born on 10 October 1833.
Robert Goyard (1893–1979)
Just like his father did, Robert ran the store until his demise in 1979. His impact on the house proved considerable, as he constantly updated the range of products, notably by developing a new canvas. He patented the design for this woven canvas in 1965. The Chevron pattern remained, and the overall design was simplified, as the production process required, leaving the canvas bare of any name.Dépôt Institut National de la Propriété Intellectuelle,Dépot de marque du 24 novembre 1965
Robert Goyard was also determined to contribute to the prestige of his neighbourhood. On 9 December 1936, the Place Vendôme Association was set up; on 25 July 1944, an extraordinary general meeting aiming to reform the association was held. The association initially changed its name to "Place Vendôme, Rue de la Paix and surroundings" before opting for "Comité Vendôme", its current name. Robert Goyard was instrumental in setting up this cooperative agreement by taking care of the formalities for its constitution and locating its offices at Goyard's headquarters at 233, rue Saint-Honoré.Acte de la préfecture de police de Paris,Acte de constitution de l'association du 12 janvier 1937
François Goyard (1918–2005)
Jean Edmond François was the son of Robert Goyard, and collaborated with his father. The Occupation took its toll on the house, and the store at 233, rue Saint-Honoré closed down temporarily. François took a stake in the family business on 25 May 1951, which became a limited company four days later. After the end of World War II, Robert resumed running the company until 1979; upon his death, his granddaughter Isabelle Goyard took over with the help of her father.
Participation to world expositions +ExpositionYearLocationPrizeSourceExposition Universelle1900Parisbronze medalM. E. Chapel, Rapport d'exposition, Groupe XV Classe 99 Industries du caoutchouc et de la gutta-percha. Objets de voyage et campement, Georges Vuitton expert, 1900Milan International1906Milangold medalM. Victor le Renard, Rapport d'exposition Pavillon de la Carrosserie, section des Transports Terrestres, Groupe VII Classe 99, Objets de campement et voyages 1906Franco-British Exhibition1908Londongold medalM. Victor le Renard, Rapport d'exposition Campements et Voyages, Groupe VII classe 99. Président du Comité d'admission et Président du jury M. Georges Vuitton, 1908Brussels International1910Brusselshonorary degreeGeorges Vuitton, Rapport d'exposition Groupe XV Classe 99, 1910Exposition of Roubaix1911RoubaixM. Etienne Béraud, Rapport d'exposition Groupe VII, Industries diverses, 1911Anglo-Latin Exposition1912Chicagogrand prixM. Henri Pichot, Président M. Léon Auscher Rapport général, Comité des expositions à l'étranger. Section V, Division J, Carrosserie, Automobiles et accessoires bois, Tourisme. Section française, 1913Exposition universelle et internationale1913Ghentgrand prixM. Lamy-Torrilhon, Rapport d'exposition, Groupe XV, Classe 99, 1913Panama–Pacific International Exposition1915San FranciscoRapport d'exposition de M. Émile Joannot, Classe XXXV, 1916Exposition of Strasbourg1919StrasbourgM. Gaston Roux, Rapport d'exposition Papeterie, Articles de voyage, Caoutchouc, Bimbeloterie, Bronze, Brosserie, Maroquinerie. Groupe J, Classe 99. Président du jury Georges Vuitton et juré suppléant Edmond Goyard, 1919International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts1925ParisM. Paul Léon, Rapport d'exposition Section Artistique et Technique Classe 9 Tabletterie, Maroquinerie, 1925
Celebrity customers Goyard's letterhead paper dated 24 June 1891 bore the coats of arms of the United Kingdom and the Russian Empire and the Great Seal of the United States of America. The queens of Yugoslavia and Greece became customers after World War II, whilst the Duke and Duchess of Windsor purchased their first Goyard goods in 1939. High-profile purchasers such as the Grimaldis or the Maharajah of Kapurthala rub shoulders with celebrities, socialites or first ladies like Catherine Deneuve, Édith Piaf, Romy Schneider, Jean-Claude Brialy, who acquired his first Goyard pieces in 1974, Mrs Georges Pompidou, who became a client from 1963 onwards, princess Andrée Aga Khan (1956), princess Radziwill (1949) or the prince and princess von Fürstenberg (1968).Quality Magazine,Der Reiz des Alten, novembre 2010 Contemporary glitterati like Madonna, Victoria Beckham, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy are regularly spotted wearing Goyard bags. Kanye West mentioned his affinity for Goyard trunks in the 2007 song, The Glory, and Rich the Kid filmed a music video in a Goyard store.
Manufacturing of the Goyard canvas: the Goyardine
The coated cloth debuted for the World Exposition in 1900, and was used in the inter-war years. It remains unchanged in present times, keeping its chevron pattern. In 2002, 110 years after its creation, the Signoles family inaugurated their tenure at the helm of Goyard with the introduction of twelve new colours in addition to the historic black canvas. Currently, the Goyardine canvas is available in black, black-tan, red, orange, yellow, green, sky-blue, navy-blue, burgundy, white and grey.
A natural fiber canvas
From the beginning, Goyardine was made with cloth; although its appearance is similar to leather. Goyard uses three plant fibers: hemp, linen, and cotton. Hemp is particularly sought after for its hydrophobic qualities, linen is a fine thermal regulator, and the softness of cotton probably caught the attention of the trunk maker.Pierre Tzenkoff, Goyard, Malletier, Maison fondée en 1792, édition Devambez, 2010 p 220
The manufacturing process
The initial meters of Goyardine were likely hand-painted. When the Goyardine was launched, the workshops moved to Bezons, and the manufacturing of the canvas required a ground-colour application followed by three successive layers of etching colours. The trademark slightly raised pattern of the Goyardine results from both the cloth and the printing technique used during the manufacturing process: the plain weave shows through the Chevron pattern, and superimposes on top of the raised pattern produced by the paint dots, leaving a unique design that is difficult to counterfeit.