Kargil ( , ) or Kargyil is a city and headquarter of the eponymous district, tehsil, and community development block of Indian-administered Ladakh in the disputed Kashmir region.The application of the term "administered" to the various regions of Kashmir and a mention of the Kashmir dispute is supported by the tertiary sources (a) through (e), reflecting due weight in the coverage. Although "controlled" and "held" are also applied neutrally to the names of the disputants or to the regions administered by them, as evidenced in sources (h) through (i) below, "held" is also considered politicized usage, as is the term "occupied," (see (j) below). (a) (subscription required) Quote: "Kashmir, region of the northwestern Indian subcontinent ... has been the subject of dispute between India and Pakistan since the partition of the Indian subcontinent in 1947. The northern and western portions are administered by Pakistan and comprise three areas: Azad Kashmir, Gilgit, and Baltistan, the last two being part of a territory called the Northern Areas. Administered by India are the southern and southeastern portions, which constitute the state of Jammu and Kashmir but are slated to be split into two union territories."; (b) (subscription required) Quote: "Aksai Chin, Chinese (Pinyin) Aksayqin, portion of the Kashmir region, at the northernmost extent of the Indian subcontinent in south-central Asia. It constitutes nearly all the territory of the Chinese-administered sector of Kashmir that is claimed by India to be part of the Ladakh area of Jammu and Kashmir state."; (c) C. E Bosworth, University of Manchester Quote: "KASHMIR, kash'mer, the northernmost region of the Indian subcontinent, administered partlv by India, partly by Pakistan, and partly by China. The region has been the subject of a bitter dispute between India and Pakistan since they became independent in 1947"; (d) Quote: "Jammu and Kashmir: Territory in northwestern India, subject to a dispute between India and Pakistan. It has borders with Pakistan and China." (e) Quote: "We move from a disputed international border to a dotted line on the map that represents a military border not recognized in international law. The line of control separates the Indian and Pakistani administered areas of the former Princely State of Jammu and Kashmir."; (f) (g) (h) Quote: "J&K: Jammu and Kashmir. The former princely state that is the subject of the Kashmir dispute. Besides IJK (Indian-controlled Jammu and Kashmir. The larger and more populous part of the former princely state. It has a population of slightly over 10 million, and comprises three regions: Kashmir Valley, Jammu, and Ladakh.) and AJK ('Azad" (Free) Jammu and Kashmir. The more populous part of Pakistani-controlled J&K, with a population of approximately 2.5 million.), it includes the sparsely populated "Northern Areas" of Gilgit and Baltistan, remote mountainous regions which are directly administered, unlike AJK, by the Pakistani central authorities, and some high-altitude uninhabitable tracts under Chinese control." (i) Quote: "Kashmir’s identity remains hotly disputed with a UN-supervised “Line of Control” still separating Pakistani-held Azad (“Free”) Kashmir from Indian-held Kashmir."; (j) Quote:"Some politicised terms also are used to describe parts of J&K. These terms include the words 'occupied' and 'held'." It is the joint capital of Ladakh, an Indian-administered union territory, and the headquarters of the Kargil district. It is the second-largest urban centre in Ladakh after Leh. Kargil is located east of Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir, and to the west of Leh. It is on the bank of the Suru River near its confluence with the Wakha Rong River, the latter providing the most accessible route to Leh.
Etymology The Ladakh Chronicles spell the name of Kargil as . The word can be interpreted as meaning a bright or wholesome expanse.THL Tibetan to English Translation Tool, The Tibetan & Himalayan Library. Term: "dkar skyil". Modern newspapers are said to spell the name as .; See also It can also be interpreted as a bright or wholesome mountainous amphitheatre.THL Tibetan to English Translation Tool, The Tibetan & Himalayan Library. Term: "dkar 'khyil". This phrase occurs often in Tibetan literature.
The Kargil basin does give the feel of an expanse surrounded by low-pitched mountains, with the low Khurbathang plateau at the southeastern corner. This is in sharp contrast to the deep gorges that give access to the valley.View of the Kargil valley from the north, Google Maps, retrieved 17 January 2023.
The people of Kargil, however, relate the name to Khar (fort) and rkil (centre) and interpret it as a central place among many forts. Radhika Gupta has opined that it is a fitting description for a place that is equidistant from Srinagar, Leh and Skardu.
Location
Kargil is located at the confluence of multiple river valleys: the Suru River valley to the north and south, the Wakha Rong valley to the southeast leading to Leh, and the Sod Valley to the east leading to the Indus Valley near Batalik. In addition, at a short distance to the north, the Dras River valley branches off from the Suru valley leading to the Zoji La pass in the west and Kashmir Valley beyond. Further north along the Suru valley, one reaches the Indus valley, leading to Skardu. Thus, Kargil is located at a key junction of routes between Kashmir, Ladakh and Baltistan.
The normal trade route between Leh and Skardu also ran via Kargil, using the Wakha Rong and Suru valleys. Even though both the towns are on the bank of the Indus River, the latter's narrow gorge between Marol and Dah was not easily traversable prior to the modern period.
After the Partition of India and the First Kashmir War, Baltistan came under the control of Pakistan. The Line of Control (LoC) with Pakistan-administered Kashmir is roughly to the north of Kargil. The peak known as Point 13620, which overlooks the Kargil town and the Srinagar–Leh Highway, remained in Pakistani control at the end of this conflict. During the Indo-Pakistan War of 1971, Indian forces pushed the Line of Control north of the ridgeline, ensuring Kargil's security. A key village called Hunderman came under Indian control as a result of this push.Naseer Ganai, Unlocking History: Hunderman's Transformation From Rock Dwellings To A Museum Village, Outlook, 7 February 2024.
History The Sod Valley had a strong fort called Sod Pasari (, now known as Pasar Khar) by the 16th or 17th century. It controlled "Lower Purig", including the Sod Valley, the lower portion of Wakha Rong and, likely the Kargil basin itself. By the 18th or 19h century, it also had a sub-branch at Pashkum () southeast of Kargil town in the Wakha Rong valley.
Dogra period
During Zorawar Singh's invasion of Ladakh in 1834, the Dogras attacked both the forts Sod Pasari and Pashkum, and destroyed them. Afterwards, Zorawar Singh built a fort at Kargil, and stationed a Kardar (administrator), with the charge of the Kargil region as well as Drass. In 1838, the people of the region revolted against the Dogras and killed the kardar as well as entire garrison stationed at Kargil.
In 1840, after another rebellion in Ladakh, Zorawar Singh deposed the Gyalpo of Ladakh and annexed the kingdom. He also decided to invade Baltistan which had assisted the Gyalpo in rebellion. On the way to Baltistan, he made a detour to Sod, routed the rebels and annexed the whole of Purig. He appointed kardars for Dras and Suru.
After Zorawar Singh's death in Tibet, there was another rebellion in Ladakh and Purig with the support of the Tibetan forces. But Dogras sent fresh forces under Wazir Lakhpat, who beat back the Tibetans and reestablished status quo ante. On returning, the Wazir garrisoned the Kargil fort and took all the Rajas of the region as prisoners.
Alexander Cunningham described the Kargil fort in 1854 as a square of about sixty yards on the left bank of the Suru River immediately above its junction with Wakha Rong. It was able to defend the bridge over the Suru River and completely command the Kashmir–Ladakh road.
In 1854, there were three ilaqas (subdistricts) in the present day Kargil district, at Kargil, Dras and Zanskar respectively. They were headed by civil officers called Thanadars. During the reign of Pratap Singh, a wazarat (district) was established for all the frontier regions (including Gilgit), and Kargil was made a tehsil of the wazarat. Sometime later, Gilgit was separated, and Kargil, Skardu and Leh made up the Ladakh wazarat. The district headquarters shifted between the three locations each year.
Importance to central Asian trade route In historical times, Ladakh was a busy entrepôt for Silk Route trade between Central and South Asia. Both Leh and Kargil benefitted from the trade between South and Central Asia as posts and halting places on the caravan routes from Srinagar to Leh, and on to Central Asia until the mid-20th century. During the colonial period, the significance of this trade route in Kargil town manifested in the form of a serai, a rest-house, and post and telegraph offices. The small wooden shops and large emporiums of Kargil's small bazaar offered matches, kerosine oil, several varieties of sugar and tea, cotton cloth from Bombay and Manchester, and cheap glass and tinsel ornaments.
Independent India
The First Kashmir War (1947–48) concluded with a ceasefire line that divided the Ladakh wazarat, putting roughly the Kargil and Leh tehsils on the Indian side, and the Skardu tehsil on the Pakistan side. The two Indian tehsils were soon promoted to districts and Ladakh was named a division, on a par with the Jammu and Kashmir divisions in the Indian state of Jammu and Kashmir. Pakistan renamed the Skardu tehsil Baltistan and divided it into further districts.
At the end of Indo-Pakistani War of 1971, the two nations signed the Simla Agreement, converting the former ceasefire line with some adjustments into a Line of Control, and promising not to engage in armed conflict with respect to that boundary. Pg 4
In 1999, the area saw infiltration by Pakistani forces, leading to the Kargil War. Fighting occurred along a 160 km long stretch of ridges overlooking the only road linking Srinagar and Leh. The military outposts on the ridges above the highway were generally around 5,000 m (16,400 ft) high, with a few as high as 5,485 m (17,995 ft). After several months of fighting and diplomatic activity, the Pakistani forces were forced to withdraw to their side of the Line of Control by their Prime minister Nawaz Sharif after he visited the United States.
Geography
Kargil has an average elevation of 2,676 m (8,780 ft), and is situated along the banks of the Suru River. The town of Kargil is located from Srinagar,Profile of Kargil District Official website of Kargil District facing Gilgit-Baltistan across the LoC. Like other areas in the Himalayas, Kargil has a temperate climate. Summers are hot with cool nights, while winters are long and chilly with temperatures often dropping below −20 °C (−4 °F).
Demographics As per the 2011 census, Kargil had a population of 16,338 individuals, an increase from the population of 10,657 recorded in the 2001 census. The population increased almost ten times from the 1961 census when 1,681 persons were recorded. The proportion of urban population in the Kargil district concomitantly increased from 3.7% to 11.6%. As of 2011, the population consisted of 10,082 males and 6,256 females. Majority (70%) of the population belonged to Scheduled Tribes. The town had a literacy rate of 83.6%.
Religion