Swiss traditional costumes (; ) are festive garments of the rural population of Switzerland, specific to each region and deliberately removed from the variations of fashion. They appeared in the 18th century as an expression of regional and social identity. During the 19th century they gave way to urban fashions, but at the end of that century they became a patriotic symbol. Alongside them, costumes linked to profession, social class, or nationality have also continued to develop into the present day.

History

19th-century emblems In 19th-century prints, costumes underwent a formal simplification, reduced to emblems in which each canton was represented by a couple. This phenomenon was linked both to the political transformations between 1798 and 1815 and to the use of such images as travel souvenirs. From the first half of the 19th century, twenty-two costumed couples appeared in carnival processions, festivals, and commemorations. The "inhabitants" of the Swiss Village at the National Exhibition in Geneva (1896) wore costume. The same year, the Hottingen reading circle organized the first costume festival in Zurich. Interest now turned to historical originals, regarded as "patriotic antiquities". As a co-founder of the costume collection at the Swiss National Museum—into which the models made from old examples for the museum's inaugural procession in 1898 entered—Julie Heierli established recognition of these garments as historical witnesses.

Revival and federation In 1906 the Schweizer Heimatschutz was constituted, and its cantonal sections gradually took an interest in costumes and their renewal, particularly in the canton of Bern in the run-up to the National Exhibition of 1914. During the First World War, patriotic women's movements in Vaud and Neuchâtel set themselves the goal of maintaining traditional costumes. The 1920s saw the appearance of new models, based on a more or less free interpretation of historical materials. This revival movement presented itself to the public through a large procession at the costume festival held within the federal agricultural exhibition of 1925 in Bern. It led, in 1926, to the founding of the Schweizerische Trachtenvereinigung (STV, French: Fédération nationale des costumes suisses, FNCS), independent from the Heimatschutz. Its primary aim was to introduce among the rural population a sober, timeless women's costume that erased social differences. The link with the Swiss Farmers' Association was ensured through the head of that movement, Ernst Laur. With the help of the Union of Swiss Peasant Women (Landfrauenverbands), the STV reached the rural home-economics schools. The founding of the Heimatwerk further supported the development of costumes by promoting the sale of Swiss textiles.

Later 20th century The STV had its moment of glory in 1939 at the national costume festival held within the National Exhibition in Zurich. Its membership grew continuously until the end of the 1950s before declining (25,400 members in 2000), as the generational transition proved difficult. The regionalist movement of the 1970s had a positive effect on the federation: local and regional particularities were sought out, while great importance was placed on the historical legitimation of costumes. By also proposing other activities—singing, dance, and travel—and by supporting traditional crafts, costumed groups took an important place in the world of leisure, which translated into stronger male participation.

Rules and contemporary use

The making and wearing of costumes are subject to varied cantonal regulations, the general principles being that a costume is not rented, that one wears only that of one's place of residence or origin, and that on formal occasions it is not combined with other garments. The number of people wearing costume without being affiliated with the federation varies by region. Official recognition of costumes is also reflected in the use made of them, for aesthetic or patriotic reasons, by tourism, advertising, and the media; however, the federation's low level of professionalization prevents a more active exploitation of this image. While the Center for Popular Culture (Zentrum für Volkskultur) in Burgdorf did not endure, the STV, headquartered in Bubikon, is still present at the Ballenberg open-air museum of rural housing.

Historical photographs of Swiss costumes by canton

Aargau

Appenzell Innerrhoden

Basel-Landschaft

Fribourg

Glarus

Graubünden

Nidwalden

Schaffhausen

Thurgau

Valais

Zurich

Geneva, Neuchâtel, St. Gallen, Solothurn, Ticino, Vaud

List of cantonal costume associations

The websites of the cantonal costume associations provide a detailed overview of the various Swiss costumes. + Cantonal costume associations Canton Costume association Founded Members Number of costume groups Website Zürich Zürcher Trachtenvereinigung 1928 trachten-zuerich.ch Bern Bernische Trachtenvereinigung 1929 128 trachtenvereinigung-bern.ch Lucerne Luzerner Trachtenvereinigung 1927 1,750 51 trachtenvereinigung-luzern.ch Uri Trachtenvereinigung Uri 1942 7 trachten-uri.ch Schwyz Kantonal Schwyzerische Trachtenvereinigung 14 trachten-sz.ch Obwalden Obwaldner Trachten- und Volkslieder-Vereinigung 7 trachten-ow.ch Nidwalden Kantonale Trachtenvereinigung Nidwalden 1940 227 4 trachtenvereinigung-nidwalden.ch Glarus Trachtenvereinigung des Kantons Glarus Zug Zuger Kantonaler Trachtenverband 1941 zugertrachten.ch Fribourg Freiburgische Vereinigung für Tracht und Brauch ffcc.ch Solothurn Solothurner Trachtenverband 20 so-trachtenverband.ch Basel-Stadt Trachtenverband des Kantons Basel-Stadt 1936 36 2 trachtenvereinigung-bs.ch Basel-Landschaft Trachtenvereinigung Baselland 1939 400 12 trachtenvereinigung-bl.ch Schaffhausen Schaffhauser Kantonale Trachtenvereinigung trachten-schaffhausen.ch Appenzell Ausserrhoden Trachtenvereinigung Appenzell Ausserrhoden 1926 6 trachtenvereinigung-ar.ch Appenzell Innerrhoden Trachtenvereinigung Appenzell Innerrhoden 1936 240 1 trachtenverein-ai.ch St. Gallen St. Gallische Trachtenvereinigung 1927 900 35 stgallischetrachtenvereinigung.ch Graubünden Bündner Trachtenvereinigung 1933 26 buendnertracht.ch Aargau Aargauischer Trachtenverband 1927 54 trachtenverband-aargau.ch Thurgau Thurgauer Trachtenvereinigung 1926 18 thurgauer-trachtenvereinigung.ch Ticino Federazione Cantonale del Costume Ticinese 1937 17 costumiticinesi.ch Vaud Association Cantonale du Costume Vaudois 1916 18 costume-vaudois.ch Valais Walliser Trachtenvereinigung 41 costumes-valais.ch Neuchâtel Société du costume neuchâtelois Geneva Fédération Cantonale du Costume Genevois 1930 15 fccge.ch Jura Association des costumes et coutumes de la République et Canton du Jura

(Sources: websites of the cantonal costume associations, as of September 2015.)

References

Bibliography

J. Heierli, Die Volkstrachten der Schweiz, 5 vols., 1922–1932. Heimatleben, 24, 1951. L. Witzig, Les costumes suisses, 1954 (German ed. 1954). L. Schürch, L. Witzig, Trachten der Schweiz, 1978 (repr. 1984). C. Burckhardt-Seebass, "Trachten als Embleme", in Zeitschrift für Volkskunde, 77, 1981, 209–226. S. Bolla, O. Lurati, L'immagine della tradizione, 1990. Th. Antonietti, Mode, Macht und Tracht, 2003.