"The Cost of a Skin" is a 1907 essay by the American zoologist and philosopher J. Howard Moore. Moore first delivered it as a paper at the American Humane Association's annual convention in Chicago in November 1906. His criticism of fur and feathers in fashion as "conscienceless and inhumane" divided the audience, with some listeners applauding and others leaving before the end. The essay was published in the Order of the Golden Age's periodical The Herald of the Golden Age, as a chapter in Moore's The New Ethics, and in pamphlet form by the Order of the Golden Age, the Animals' Friend Society, the American Humane Association, the Millenium Guild, and later the Animal Defence and Anti-Vivisection Society. It criticizes the use of animal skins, fur, and feathers in clothing, describes the suffering caused by animal trapping, and links dress reform with Moore's arguments about animal ethics and vegetarianism.
Background
J. Howard Moore (1862–1912) was an American zoologist, philosopher, animal rights advocate, and ethical vegetarian. His writing applied evolutionary theory to moral philosophy and argued for moral consideration beyond the human species.
On November 15, 1906, Moore read his paper "The Cost of a Skin" at the annual meeting of the American Humane Association in Chicago. In the speech, he denounced the use of fur and feathers in fashion as "conscienceless and inhumane". According to historian Janet M. Davis, the speech elicited "tears and hysterical denials" from some members of the association, some of whom walked out during the speech. Donna L. Davey describes the audience reaction as mixed: some listeners applauded, others remained silent, and two women left before the speech ended.
Publication history
The essay was published in 1907 as a chapter in Moore's book The New Ethics, in the Order of the Golden Age's periodical The Herald of the Golden Age, as a pamphlet by the Order of the Golden Age, and as a leaflet by the Animals' Friend Society of London.
In 1912, the Millenium Guild published the essay. A version was also published by the American Humane Association.
The Animal Defence and Anti-Vivisection Society later issued an undated pamphlet version. A copy is held in the Animal Rights and Animal Welfare Pamphlets, 1874–1952 collection at North Carolina State University Libraries. According to the Vegan Literary Studies project at the University of Geneva, this version was based on the Millenium Guild version and was probably published in 1939 because it states that the society had been founded 33 years earlier. The project states that the later pamphlet moves the final paragraphs of the 1912 version forward and adds new material near the end.
Summary Moore argues that the use of fur and feathers in dress is a survival from what he calls "the savage stage of evolution". He compares the wearing of animal bodies for ornament with the wearing of human scalps, and treats it as evidence of limited sympathy toward other animals.
The essay describes methods used to obtain fur, including steel traps, spring poles, sliding poles, and deadfalls. Moore writes that trapped animals may experience prolonged pain, terror, thirst, hunger, or exposure before death. He also asks readers to imagine humans being hunted by a physically stronger species that kills them without conscience and uses parts of their bodies as ornaments.
In the later pamphlet version, Moore adds an estimate that 30,000,000 animals are killed annually for fur. The pamphlet also includes a passage on the trapping of ermines by using greased iron in extreme cold, causing the animal's tongue to freeze to the metal. It ends by recommending clothing made from non-animal materials and links dress reform with vegetarianism by criticizing both leather and meat consumption.
See also Books by J. Howard Moore Animal welfare in the United States Anti-fur movement Fur farming Hunting in the United States Opposition to hunting Plume hunting
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