Assamese jewellery or Axomiya Gohona refers to the traditional handcrafted ornaments of the Indian state of Assam. The jewellery is typically made from pure gold (locally known as Kesa Xoon) or silver with gold plating, often adorned with colourful gemstones, amber and enamel work. It is widely worn during festivals such as Bihu, weddings, and other ceremonial occasions.

History Jewellery-making traditions in Assam date back to ancient times. The use of gold and ornaments in Assam is attested in early textual sources. The Arthashastra contains an early reference to gold associated with the region, while the Kalika Purana and Yogini Tantra refer to silver ornaments and gold utensils, respectively. Traditional Assamese jewellery designs commonly draw on regional flora and fauna, musical instruments, and objects of everyday life. Jewellery items like Thuria, Madoli, Junbiri and Gam Kharu have origins in Bodo-Kachari people, which include Bodos, Dimasas, Chutias, Deoris, etc.

Buranjis record the wide prevalence of different kinds of jewellery in the Chutia kingdom and later Ahom kingdom. As gold was produced abundantly within the region, rulers and members of the royal families of the kingdoms of Assam wore garments and ornaments made of gold. Kings wore gem-set gold rings, anklets, robes embroidered with gold thread, gamkharu, five-stranded, seven-stranded and nine-stranded necklaces, and pearls suspended from the ears with gold thread. Queens likewise wore mekhelas embroidered with gold-thread motifs, along with various gold ornaments.

The 1428 copperplate inscription of Chutia king Durlabhnarayan mentions a swarnakara or goldsmith named Krishna Sadhu.Barua, Swarnalata, "Chutia Jatir Buranji, p.588 The last Chutia king Nitipal, in order to establish peace with the invading Ahom army, sent a lot of gifts to the Ahom king and his ministers, which included jewellery items like gold Keru earrings"Then the Chutiâ king sent to our king Katakis with the following things to sue for peace - a pair of gold Keru earings (Tong-ru-Khang-kham), golden cloth (sin-kham) and cotton cloth(sin-phra-nun).", gold bangles (probably Gam Kharu)Bhuyan, S.K, "Assam Buranji (SM)", p.11 and gold foot bangles. "Then the Sutiyâ king desired to send silver and gold lipped Jâpi (Kup-ngiun-kham), gold bracelets (Mao-kham), gold basket (Liu-kham), gold box (Khup-kham), gold foot bangles (Khu-tin-kham), gold pirâ (Kham-ku), horse (Ma), elephant (Chang-pai), and two Âroans (Phra-nun) and Xorais (Phun) to the Ahom king." As per Assam Buranji (SM), after the defeat of the Chutia king, the Ahoms brought in the gold waist ornament Kakali of the Chutia queen and offered it to the shrine at Sadiya.Bhuyan, S.K, "Assam Buranji (SM)", p.11, "ঘৈণীয়েককো কঙ্কালত কাটি শালত দি‌ থলে।‌ ককালৰ সোণৰ কঙ্কালি তাৰ শদিয়াৰ দেওঘলৈ দিলে।" Apart from the jewellery, many artisans including goldsmiths (Sonari), who were experts in making ornaments, were also moved from the Chutia capital Sadiya to the Ahom capital.

During the reign of Ahom king Pratap Singhaa, the people who came with Sundar Gohain of Koch Behar worked as goldsmiths in the Ahom kingdom.Barbarua, Hiteswar, Ahomar Din,p. 460 During the reign of Suramphaa (1641–1644), known in the chronicles as Bhoga Raja, the Ahom court introduced sumptuary regulations governing dress, ornaments and other visible markers of social status. Hindus were forbidden from wearing gold beads, rings and thuria, while Ahoms were required to live according to the standards assigned to their rank; an Ahom who attempted to exceed his prescribed position could be put to death. These measures formed part of a wider set of restrictions that also regulated house construction and women's clothing. During the reign of Ahom king Rudra Singha, significant efforts were made to improve the quality and craftsmanship of gold ornaments in Assam. Historical accounts note that goldsmiths from Assam were sent to cities such as Jaipur and Benares to learn advanced techniques of ornament-making. Prior to this period, locally made ornaments were considered less refined. Upon their return, two trained artisans were appointed at Rajshal by the king and were conferred the title of Bardoloi, leading to improvements in craftsmanship. Subsequently, the production of gold-plated ornaments expanded, and the goldsmithing tradition in Assam evolved into a thriving cottage industry.

Material and Types

Artisans employ handcrafting techniques passed down through generations, including engraving, filigree work, and enamel decoration. Designs often incorporate motifs of birds, flowers, musical instruments, and cultural symbols. Traditional Assamese jewellery is primarily made using Gold (Kesa Xoon) – often of high purity, Silver – frequently gold-plated, Gemstones and enamel (mina work) – in red, green, blue, black, and white shades and Amber.

Assamese jewellery types include necklaces, bangles, earrings, rings and other ornaments. Necklace types include Junbiri, Dhulbiri or Madoli and Dugdugi. Junbiri is one of the most well-known Assamese ornaments, characterised by its crescent (moon-like) shape. The term derives from jun (moon). It is widely worn during festivals and weddings. Dholbiri, also known as motabiri or Madoli, is a traditional necklace inspired by the shape of the dhol (drum). It is often adorned with intricate patterns. Historically, the term motabiri was used to refer to a large, drum-shaped ornament made without the use of gemstones. In earlier times, this ornament was worn exclusively by men. In contemporary practice, dhulbiri ornaments are crafted using gemstones as well as enamel work in colours such as black, red, and green. Over time, the usage of the ornament has expanded, and it is now worn by women as well. Dugdugi or Doogdoogi is a gold pendant resembling a small leaf. It is worn hanging from the neck to the chest.

Gamkharu is a traditional broad bracelet, usually made of gold or silver. It dates back to the pre-Ahom period and symbolizes strength, prosperity, and feminine power. Historically associated with royalty, it later became a common bridal ornament. Earring types include Keru and Lokaparo. Keru are moon-shaped earrings, often decorated with enamel and gemstones. Lokaparo earrings feature two pigeons facing each other, symbolizing love and companionship. Thuria is another type of cylindrical-shaped earring with the end shaped like a flower. Other jewellery types includes rings such as Senpata, Jethinejia, and Bakhorpotiya, along with various bead-based ornaments like Moni necklaces.

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