Lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Competition lead climbing at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held over six stages at six different locations, from 14 June to 24 September 2023. The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 40 of each event. Sorato Anraku won the men's season title, Jessica Pilz won the women's season title, and Japan won the national team title.

Overview +DateLocationRoutesetters*MenWomenJune, 14-18 Innsbruck, Austria Sascha Lehmann Janja GarnbretJune 30 - July 2 Villars, Switzerland Jakob Schubert Janja GarnbretJuly, 7-9 Chamonix, France Toby Roberts Jain KimJuly, 14-15 Briançon, France Sorato Anraku September, 8-9 Koper, Slovenia Sorato Anraku Janja GarnbretSeptember, 22-24 Wujiang, China Sorato Anraku Ai MoriOVERALL WINNERS Sorato Anraku Jessica PilzNATIONAL TEAM Japan * Chief routesetters are in bold.

Overall ranking The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 80 of each individual event. The end-of-season standings are based on the sum of points earned from the five best finishes for each athlete. Results displayed (in brackets) are not counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes.

Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023: Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang 1 Sorato Anraku 4300 4. 610 (6. 495) 3. 690 1. 1000 1. 1000 1. 1000 2 Alexander Megos 2650 2. 805 3. 690 4. 610 - 5. 545 - 3 Taisei Homma 2455 9. 380 13. 280 12. 300 2. 805 (13. 270*) 3. 690 4 Shion Omata 2445 12. 300 8. 415 9. 380 5. 545 (15. 240) 2. 805 5 Toby Roberts 2440 16. 220 4. 610 1. 1000 - 4. 610 - 6 Satone Yoshida 2080 6. 495 12. 300 11. 325 3. 690 13. 270* (14. 260) 7 Yoshiyuki Ogata 2065 (18. 185) 17. 205 14. 260 4. 610 9. 380 4. 610 8 Sascha Lehmann 1940 1. 1000 18. 185 - - 12. 300 7. 455 9 Masahiro Higuchi 1720 7. 455 21. 145 (26. 84) 6. 495 11. 325 12. 300 10 Jakob Schubert 1690 3. 690 1. 1000 - - - -

Women The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2023: Rank Name Points Innsbruck Villars Chamonix Briançon Koper Wujiang 1 Jessica Pilz 3235 3. 690 2. 805 4. 610 - 11. 325 2. 805 2 Janja Garnbret 3000 1. 1000 1. 1000 - - 1. 1000 - 3 2725 (17. 205) 13. 280 7. 455 1. 1000 3. 690 12. 300 4 Ai Mori 2610 2. 805 - - - 2. 805 1. 1000 5 Natsuki Tanii 2525 (26. 84) 6. 495 9. 380 8. 415 5. 545 3. 690 6 Jain Kim 2485 11. 325 7. 455 1. 1000 14. 250 (20. 155) 7. 455 7 Seo Chae-hyun 2430 5. 545 4. 610 8. 415 14. 250 4. 610 - 8 Mia Krampl 2275 6. 495 5. 545 6. 495 - 8. 415 11. 325 9 Nonoha Kume 2090 - 16. 220 2. 805 4. 610 7. 455 - 10 Molly Thompson-Smith 1885 9. 380 9. 380 12. 300 5. 545 13. 280 -

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 14-18) 110 men and 89 women attended the event.

In the men's, Sascha Lehmann won the competition ahead of Alexander Megos. In the final, Lehmann and Megos received identical scores. Lehmann was awarded the gold by virtue of his better semi-final performance. Jakob Schubert won the bronze medal.

In women's, Slovenian Janja Garnbret won the competition — marking her third Lead World Cup win in Innsbruck. Japan's Ai Mori finished second. Austria's Jessica Pilz placed third. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Sascha Lehmann41TOP43+44+ Janja Garnbret TOP47+4639+ Alexander Megos41TOP39+44+ Ai Mori49+43+46+33+ Jakob Schubert39+TOP4342+ Jessica Pilz49+40+40+25+4 Sorato Anraku41+TOP4042+4 Brooke Raboutou43+4334+25+5 Mejdi Schalck39394042+5 Seo Chae-hyun49+4546+256 Satone Yoshida41+41+39+42+6 Mia Krampl45+39+36+257 Masahiro Higuchi39+38+42+427 Natalia Grossman46+43+34+24+8 Alberto Ginés López2140+40428 Hélène Janicot37+43+32+7+9 Taisei Homma4140+4240+

Villars, Switzerland (June 30 - July 2) 94 men and 83 women attended the event.

In men's, Innsbruck winner Sascha Lehmann failed to advance past the semi-finals. Last year's winner Taisei Homma failed to advance past the semi-finals. Austrian Jakob Schubert won the competition — his first lead World Cup win since Innsbruck 2021. Czech Republic's Adam Ondra and Germany's Alexander Megos claimed silver and bronze respectively.

In women's, Slovenia's Janja Garnbret took the win, topping all routes in the qualification, semi-final and final rounds. This marked Garnbret's seventh consecutive Villars Lead World Cup win. Austria's Jessica Pilz and USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second and third respectively. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Jakob Schubert40+TOP36+42+ Janja GarnbretTOPTOPTOPTOP Adam Ondra41 3339+41+ Jessica Pilz41+TOP35+43+ Alexander Megos40+26+36+40 Brooke RaboutouTOP37+45+434 Toby Roberts40+3536+39+4 Seo Chae-hyun39+TOP45+435 Colin Duffy3829+TOP37+5 Mia Krampl36+34+3740+6 Sorato Anraku3734TOP36+6 Natsuki Tanii41+20+40+367 Pan Yufei38+30+32+347 Jain Kim39+34+3622+8 Shion Omata3734+33+24+8 Mattea Pötzi34+30+37+17+

Chamonix, France (July, 7-9) 92 men and 83 women attended the event.

In men's, Great Britain's Toby Roberts secured the only top in the final climbed second in the final — claiming his first Lead World Cup win. France's Sam Avezou and Japan's Sorato Anraku won their first IFSC World Cup medals —silver and bronze respectively.

In women's, South Korean veteran Jain Kim claimed gold. Japan's Nonoha Kume claimed her first World Cup silver medal at her second World Cup ahead of France's Hélène Janicot due to countback to semi-finals. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Toby RobertsTOP TOP50+TOP Jain KimTOP35+39+43+ Sam Avezou45+TOP39+50 Nonoha KumeTOPTOP43+38+ Sorato AnrakuTOPTOP50+48 Hélène Janicot46+32+3638+4Alexander Megos 44+TOP40+46+4 Jessica Pilz TOPTOP44+37+5 Stefan Scherz37+TOP42415 Miho Nonaka42+TOP36+37+6 Colin Duffy44TOP46+39+6 Mia KramplTOP35+35337 Luka Potočar44TOP39+39+7 42+35+3529+8 Lee Do-hyun44+TOP40+398 Seo Chae-hyunTOPTOP46+22

Briançon, France (July, 14-15) 76 men and 67 women attended the event.

In men's, the Japanese team swept the podium. Sorato Anraku clinched his first lead World Cup win. Taisei Homma placed second, and Satone Yoshida placed third. There were no fewer than seven Japanese climbers in the men's final - a World Cup record. Homma and Yoshida had identical final scores but Homma claimed silver by virtue of his better semi-final performance.

In women's, Chamonix winner Jain Kim failed to advance past the semi-finals. In the final, Slovenia's won her first lead World Cup ahead of Czechia's Eliska Adamovska and France's Manon Hily, who won her first World Cup bronze medal. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Sorato AnrakuTOPTOPTOPTOP 41+41+44+46 Taisei Homma45+TOP45+49+ Eliska Adamovska42+TOP49+44+ Satone YoshidaTOP40+43+49+ Manon Hily44+41+44+44+4 Yoshiyuki Ogata45+3643494 Nonoha Kume49+44+4943+5 Shion Omata45+TOP4344+5 Molly Thompson-Smith50+42+44+356 Masahiro Higuchi45+40TOP40+6Camille Pouget42+38+44+34+7 Hannes Puman43+36+46397 Martina Demmel40+4043+34+8 Haruki Uemura40+36+45+37+8 Natsuki TaniiTOP43+45+12+

Koper, Slovenia (September, 8-9) 59 men and 62 women attended the event.

In men's, the final route saw many athletes struggling low down the route with friction on a sloper, resulting in similar scores for 5 of the 8 climbers. Japan's Sorato Anraku, having just won the Briançon lead World Cup, topped the final route, securing the win and the overall 2023 lead World Cup title. USA's Jesse Grupper took second place and Olympic champion Alberto Ginés López took third, his first World Cup medal since 2019.

In women's, Olympic champion Janja Garnbret topped the final route to claim the win. Last year's Koper World Cup winner Ai Mori finished second and Slovenian took third. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Sorato AnrakuTOP36+45TOP Janja GarnbretTOPTOP35+TOP Jesse GrupperTOP36+32+42+ Ai Mori43+TOP35+44+ Alberto Ginés LópezTOPTOP25+23 37+333340+4 Toby RobertsTOP14+37+21+4 Seo Chae-hyun4242+3438+5 Alexander MegosTOP35+29+21+5 Natsuki Tanii4334+3433+6 Yannick FlohéTOP35+31+216 Laura Rogora3842+31+33+7 Sam AvezouTOP33+29+20+7 Nonoha Kume33+4131+31+8 Luka PotočarTOP13+2718+8 Mia Krampl41+4231+11+

Wujiang, China (September, 22-24) 48 men and 45 women attended the event.

In men's, Japan's Sorato Anraku won the final lead World Cup of the 2023 season over compatriots Shion Omata and Taisei Homma.

In women's, Japan's Ai Mori won the gold. Austria's Jessica Pilz took silver, securing her win the 2023 lead World Cup series. Japan's Natsuki Tanii placed third, her first podium since 2019. MenWomenRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalRankNameQualificationSemi-FinalFinalR1R2R1R2 Sorato Anraku35+40+TOP39+ Ai MoriTOP39+TOP36+ Shion Omata33+36+34+30+ Jessica Pilz37+323431+ Taisei Homma34TOPTOP26+ Natsuki TaniiTOP33+TOP26+4 Yoshiyuki Ogata26+31+34+26+4 Zhang Yuetong3326+28+22+5 Song Yunchan313142+24+5 Futaba Ito33+32+28+226 Ao Yurikusa31+25+38+23+6 Miho Nonaka3333+28+21+7 Sascha Lehmann29+38+38+237 Jain Kim36+35+3420+8 Nicolas Collin26+30+37+238 Manon Hily16+28+28+17+

References