The fortifications of Larrun from the late modern period are a series of military works situated on the mountain of Larrun, immediately to the west of the border between Spain and France. Some of the structures were erected during the 1793-1794 campaign and repurposed to impede the advance of the Anglo-Hispano-Portuguese coalition troops, which the future Duke of Wellington led. More than twenty redoubts are distributed across the territories of Ascain, Sare, and Urrugne, with partial coverage also extending to those of Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle and Biriatou.
The battles of the late 18th century were primarily concentrated in the commune of Urrugne. The revolutionary forces were deployed in the Louis XIV, Bertuste, Bayonet, and Emigrés redoubts, situated along the border and overlooking the Bidassoa River as well as the route from Vera de Bidassoa. This configuration proved effective in containing the advance of the Spanish attackers. Théophile de La Tour d'Auvergne, renowned as the "first grenadier of the Republic," distinguished himself notably during these confrontations.
The circumstances at the outset of the nineteenth century were markedly distinct. Wellington advanced as a conqueror and successfully breached the Sare lock, subsequently attacking the slopes of Larrun before heading toward Bayonne. The French army, under the command of Marshal Soult, demonstrated valor in their defense of the Zuhalmendi, Grenada, and Madeleine Chapel redoubts. The inadequacy of the defensive position, ill-suited to counterattacks, and the inexperience of the defenders at the Ermitebaïta and Mendibidea redoubts permitted the Anglo-Hispano-Portuguese coalition troops to breach the defensive line and ultimately force the French forces to retreat towards Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle.
The redoubts, situated on elevated terrain, were constructed by two principal architectural designs, tailored to the local topography. Examples of star-shaped redoubts include the Santa Barbara, the so-called "BF 29" (Border Marker 29), and the Bayonet redoubts. Others adopt a fairly regular quadrilateral configuration, exemplified by the Madeleine Chapel redoubt, or a pentagonal shape, as observed in the Emigrés and Olhain Chapel redoubts. A third category encompasses less common shapes, such as the ovoid Louis XIV redoubt in Sare, which is presumed to be a reuse of a protohistoric structure. Thirteen of these fortifications have been designated as historical monuments.
General overview of the setup
Larrun represents the final summit of the Pyrenees mountain range before the Atlantic Ocean. The mountain reaches an elevation of 905 meters, with its summit and slopes divided between four communes: Vera de Bidassoa in Spain and Ascain, Sare, and Urrugne in France. It overlooks a series of hills that extend across the four localities. The elevations of Biscarzun (185 m) and Esnaur (272 m) are situated within the municipality of Ascain. Similarly, the elevations of Saint-Ignace (273 m), Suhamendy (301 m), Ibantelly (698 m), and Santa- The peak of Mount Barbara (140 m) is located in the commune of Sare, while Mount Faague (552 m) is situated in the same region. The peak of Mount San Benito (462 m) is located in the commune of Vera de Bidassoa. Finally, Mount Mendalé (573 m) is located in the commune of Urrugne.
The fortifications of Larrun are composed of star-shaped redoubts, also known as "bastioned," polygonal, or ovoid, situated on elevated ridges or knolls. Their construction may have been somewhat rudimentary, with some protected by simple ditches or backed by existing ruins, such as the Larrun Hermitage redoubt in Sare. Some, like the Louis XIV redoubt in Sare, have protohistoric origins.
These are modest, isolated fortifications designed to provide refuge for infantrymen, who would otherwise be compelled to form squares in open terrain. The generally uncovered nature of the trenches increased the mobility of the infantry, allowing them to move while remaining partially sheltered. However, these works offered minimal capacity for counterattacks, given the limited number of soldiers they could accommodate and the difficulty of exiting the trenches. It was only through external intervention that an assailed redoubt could be relieved. Some redoubts were equipped with artillery pieces, which, due to the steep slopes of Larrun, were often exposed to enemy fire. This configuration was particularly evident when the Allies captured the Hermitage redoubt at the summit of Larrun, resulting in the fortified Alchangue ridge becoming subject to their artillery fire.
History
The battles of 1793-1794 The execution of Louis XVI on January 21, 1793, served to exacerbate the underlying tensions between France and Spain. Consequently, on March 7 of the same year, the National Convention of France declared war on Charles IV, King of Spain. In the Basque Country, the battles—which had initially commenced in the Val d'Aran in Catalonia—focused on the valleys of the Bidassoa and Nivelle rivers. In 1793, the Committee of Public Safety constructed a redoubt at the summit of Larrun on the site of a previously destroyed hermitage.
The opposing forces included 8,000 French soldiers, positioned by General Servan—who served as War Minister until his resignation on October 3, 1792—in the communes of Sare, Hendaye, and Urrugne. They were opposed by 2,200 Spaniards under the command of General Ventura Caro, who had been reinforced by the army of émigrés led by the Marquis of Saint-Simon.
The French forces were deployed in a manner that allowed them to exert control over three primary sectors. The route from Vera de Bidassoa to Ciboure, traversing the Col d’Insola and following the existing route through the Olhette district (Urrugne), was safeguarded by the Belchenea camp and a network of redoubts situated at the region’s summits. Notable among these were the Choucoutoun redoubt at an elevation of 94 meters, the Gendarmes redoubt, the Voltigeurs redoubt at an elevation of 81 meters, the Joliment redoubt, the Emigrés redoubt, and the Mendalé redoubt at an elevation of 573 meters. Furthermore, fortifications were constructed to safeguard the Bidassoa crossing between Biriatou and Béhobie. The French forces were distributed along the flanks of Croix des Bouquets, Xoldokogaña, Mont du Calvaire, Rocher des Perdrix, and Lumaberde. Finally, the Bidassoa estuary required the establishment or reinforcement of the Sans-Culottes, Ihartzecoborda, and Etsail redoubts from Croix des Bouquets, as well as the digging of trenches to protect the village of Hendaye from the Socorri hill.
A significant portion of the combat occurred within Urrugne's territory, which served as a base of operations for a contingent of French forces, including Théophile de La Tour d’Auvergne and generals Servan, Muller, , and , at the . In contrast, revolutionary troops were situated in Béhobie, Biriatou, or the fortified positions along the ridges.
The initial engagement was precipitated by a Spanish incursion on April 23, 1793, while the French military forces were still undergoing reorganization. The decree formally establishing the Army of the Western Pyrenees was promulgated on May 1. The Spanish offensive focused on Fort Hendaye and the Louis XIV redoubt in Urrugne, which came under artillery bombardment. The French volunteers were compelled to withdraw to Croix des Bouquets.
On May 1, Spanish troops captured the redoubt at the summit of Larrun and established a settlement there. On May 2, another Spanish attack on Hendaye was repelled beyond the Bidassoa by French troops, with La Tour d'Auvergne distinguishing himself by his courageous conduct. On May 26, 1794, French troops under the command of La Tour d’Auvergne once again attempted to seize the Larrun redoubt. Despite encountering fierce resistance on the heights of Santa-Barbara (also known as Sainte-Barbe), a hill located in the commune of Sare, they were ultimately forced to withdraw.
On July 13, another Spanish offensive was repelled, resulting in the enemy troops occupying Biriatou and positions along the Bidassoa. In response, the French headquarters withdrew to a position north of the Nivelle River, where they reinforced their troops with recruits who had undergone training at a camp in Bidart until early 1794. On February 5, 1794, hostilities resumed when a column of 13,000 Spanish infantrymen and 700 cavalrymen entered France via the road from Vera de Bidassoa. The Mont du Calvaire and Mendalé positions were subsequently occupied by the attacking forces, who were subsequently repelled by the French. The latter subsequently recaptured the positions, which were then renamed the "Bayonet Redoubt" due to the intense bayonet fighting that occurred there.
The Battles of October and November 1813
Following the defeat at Vitoria on June 21, 1813—which resulted in the withdrawal of the French troops escorting Joseph Bonaparte—and the subsequent defeats at Sorauren on July 25 and San Marcial on August 31, Arthur Wellesley's troops found themselves positioned on the banks of the Bidassoa. In a letter to William Carr Beresford dated October 2, 1813, the Duke of Wellington articulated his intentions. "[...] the heights of the Bidassoa afford such an extensive view that it would be prudent to secure them with minimal delay." Marshal Soult, in command of the French forces, had partially fortified the heights and approaches to the Bidassoa but appeared more preoccupied with the fate of Pamplona, which had been under siege by General Enrique José O'Donnell's Spanish troops since June 26.The two armies were positioned in such a way that they were facing each other. On the French side, Marshal Soult (also known as the "Duke of Dalmatia") divided his forces into three groups. To the west, Reille's two divisions, commanded by and Maucune, were responsible for covering the right flank between Urrugne and Ciboure. The center was held by Clauzel's three divisions, led by Taupin, Maransin, and Conroux, which were responsible for guarding the heights of Larrun, Sare, and Ascain. These divisions were supported by elements of 's division in the Ascain- sector. To the east, between Amotz and Mondarrain, were the divisions of Erlon and Abbé. Marshal Soult resided in Saint-Jean-de-Luz.
The Anglo-Hispano-Portuguese coalition, under the command of Wellesley, advanced along a common front line, with Ramsay's English and O'Donnell's Spanish divisions situated to the east, between Zugarramurdi and Echalar, while Alten maintained control of the Lizuniaga pass, advancing from Vera de Bidassoa. The western flank, facing Reille's divisions, was occupied by Longa and Freyre's troops.
On October 7, an assault force of 15,000 allied troops crossed the Bidassoa. The so-called "Cross of the Bouquets" combat occurred in Urrugne. The French were taken unawares, as the preceding night's inclement weather had obfuscated the assailants' preparations. They crossed the Bidassoa at three distinct fords upstream of Fontarabie, whereas Soult anticipated that the primary assault would occur in the Ainhoa region, situated to the east of Sare. Reille's forces, which had taken up position in the Louis XIV redoubt in Urrugne by 7:30 that morning, were overwhelmed by Graham's column. Neither Reille nor Clauzel was able to engage their reserves in time, as Montfort and Boyer's brigades were at Calvaire Mountain and Poiriers Pass in Biriatou, and Gauthier's brigade was at Bordegain.