Chinese auspicious ornaments in textile and clothing refers to any form of Chinese auspicious ornaments, which are used to decorate various forms of Chinese textile and clothing (including and ), fashion accessories, and footwear in China since the ancient times. Chinese auspicious ornaments form part of Chinese culture and hold symbolic meanings. In ancient China, auspicious ornaments were often either embroidered or woven into textile and clothing. They are also used on religious and ritual clothing (e.g. which is Taoist clothing and Chinese Buddhist clothing) and in , Chinese opera costumes. Auspicious symbols and motifs continue to be used in present-day China in industries, such as home textiles and clothing; they are also used in modern design packaging and interior design. Some of these Chinese auspicious ornaments were also adopted by European countries during the era of Chinoiserie, where they became decorative patterns on fashionable chinoiserie fashion and textiles.
Cultural significance Chinese auspicious patterns and motifs have profound meanings and are rich in forms; these reflect the desires and yearning of the ancient Chinese to pursue a better life. Chinese auspicious ornaments are typically decorations of Chinese cultural origins which are rooted in Confucianism, Taoism, Chinese Buddhism beliefs, in Chinese mythology and cosmology and concepts, as well from Buddhist visual arts and from the natural flora and fauna in China. Throughout Chinese history, the use of Chinese embroideries on textile, clothing, and footwear also reflected and expressed the subtle changes in aesthetic concepts, cultural traditions, ethics and morals of the Chinese people throughout the millennia.
Usage
Common items Chinese auspicious symbols and patterns were used on wedding bedding textiles. They were also used to decorate Chinese fragrant sachet (e.g. Qingyang sachet) and Chinese purses ().
Garments and clothing accessories Clothing and colour in China also played an important role in representing its wearer's identity, rank, and culture. Clothing which were decorated with Chinese dragons and cosmological symbols, rank badges were typically symbol of status of the ruling class in ancient China. +List of garment and foot wear items decorated with Chinese auspicious ornamentsCourt dress attireReligious attireWedding attireCommon fashion accessories and garmentsFootwear Diyi Mianfu Mandarin square found bufu, including the yuanlingshan, surcoats (gua) Dragon robes and python robes Daojiao fushi (Taoist clothing) Qungua Xiuhefu Mangao and mangchu Fengguang xiapei Baijiayi Dudou Yunjian Xiapei Tiger-head shoes Xiuhuaxie
Auspicious set of ornaments
Twelve ornaments
The Twelve ornaments are one of the oldest motifs in China. They originated in the Western Zhou dynasty and was a group of highly auspicious ancient Chinese symbols and designs, signifying authority and power. They were typically embroidered on imperial clothing, and were used as decoration on textile fabrics.
Their use on clothing have been recorded in the Shangshu Yiji; since then, they have continuously been used. The system of clothing patterns was however established in the Han dynasty, where the types and the number of ornaments was regulated based on a person's ranks. In the Sui dynasty, the twelve ornaments were reserved for the Emperor exclusively; Emperor Yang Sui established a system which defined the exact location of these ornaments on the imperial robes. This system continued in the Ming dynasty. The system was changed in the Qing dynasty when the Manchu established their own clothing system. The emperor wore all twelve ornaments on his clothing. +Twelve ornamentsNameSymbolismDescriptionimagesSun (日, rì)Source of lifeSun with the sanzuwu (Three-legged crow) inside it.Moon (月, yuè)HeavenMoon with a moon rabbit insideThree stars (星辰, xīngchén)Cosmic universe as personified by the Emperor, it is an unending source of pardon and loveMountains (山, shān)The emperor's ability to rule earth and water, symbolizing stability and tranquilityChinese dragon (龍, lóng)Adaptability and strengthPheasant (華蟲, huá chóng)Peace and refinement.A colourful pheasantTwo cups (宗彝, zōng yí)Imperial loyalty, also symbolizes the virtue of filial pietyA pair of sacrificial goblets used in ancient sacrifice; one of the cups is decorated with the motif of a monkey (symbolizes wisdom and cleverness) while the other is decorated with the motif of a tiger (symbolizes authority, courage, and bold spirit).Zao (藻, zǎo)symbol of the emperor's leadership, represents brightness and purity (noble and pure conduct)A spray of pondweed.Fire (火, huǒ)Represents the emperors' intellectual brilliance; also symbolizes summer solsticeUpward pattern of a fire emblem, symbolized that the emperor led its people in making positive effortsGrain of rice (粉米, fěn mǐ)Symbolize nourishment and the country's agriculture, and also symbolizes that the emperor is the mainstay for the people.Axe (黼, fǔ)The Axe stands for "cut-off"; i.e. the emperor's power to act decisivelyFigure 亞 (黻, fú)Represents collaboration and the power of the emperor to make a clear distinction between right and wrongIt is a bow-shaped sign
Bagua Bagua are also used to decorate clothing and textiles, including in . Bagua are believed to be derived from the markings on the back of a tortoise shell after it had been placed on sacrificial fire.
Yin and Yang Yin and yang are also used to decorate clothing, including and headwear.
Eight treasures The Eight treasures (八宝 bābǎo) can appear on clothing and textile. These motifs were typically used by Confucianists. TypeSymbolismImagesPearl (寳珠, bǎozhū), or flaming pearlWealth and success. The pearl regularly appears on textiles and rank badge. By the mid-Qing dynasty, the pearl evolved into the flaming pearl, which represents the sun, wisdom, power, and an imperial treasure.Double lozenges (方勝, "fāngshèng")Happiness in marriage and counteracts maleficent influences.Stone chime (磬, "qìng")A just and upright life.rhinoceros horns (犀角, xījiǎo)HappinessDouble coins (雙錢, shuāngqián)WealthGold or silver ingot (錠, dìng)Coral (珊瑚, shānhú)Ruyi scepter (如意, rúyì)
Eight emblems of the Immortals The eight emblems of the Immortals are typically eight items representing the Eight Immortals and their powers can also appear on clothing and textile. These motifs were typically used by taoists. TypeAttributesImagesFanAttributes of the fan of Zhongli Quan.Lotus flowerAttributes of the lotus of He Xiangu.PeachBambooGourd with medicineAttributes of the double gourd of Li Tieguai.Basket of flowersAttributes of the flower basket of Lan CaiheMusical instrumentsTwo castanetsAttributes of the castanets of Cao Guojiu.FluteAttributes of the flute of Han Xiangzi
Ashtamangala/ Eight Sacred Buddhist Symbols The Ashtamangala can also appear on clothing, such as the dragon robes of the Qing dynasty. These motifs were typically used by Buddhists. TypeAttributesImagesVaseHarmonyParasoldignityVictory bannerRank and nobilityEndless knotHappinessLotusPurityTwin fishWealthConchProtectionWheel of Dharma
Other sets of ornaments +TypeSymbolismImagesTwelve Chinese zodiacFive poisons"Sea water, river and cliff pattern" (海水江崖纹)/ "Waves, mountains, rocks"RockPeace and harmony within the country and/or harmony in the Universe, which is presided by the Emperor.WoshuiConcentric semicirclesTurbulent WavesSurging sea wavesLishuiDiagonal straight/ wavy lines
List of natural landscape elements used in textile and clothing
Clouds/ auspicious clouds
Clouds, also referred as auspicious clouds (xiangyun 祥云), are the symbols of good fortune and happiness, as well as a good omen of peace and the symbol of heavens. Clouds designs have been used in artworks as early as the Eastern Zhou dynasty. In the ancient era, auspicious clouds were of associated with deities and good fortune.
Mountains and rocks
Mountains were symbolism of stability, greatness, and stable governance.
Mountains are also one of the twelve ornaments which are embroidered on the Imperial robes. The rock found in the bottom-centre of the Qing dragon robes, represents the sacred mountain (山, shān), one of the Twelve ornaments.
Stars and constellation Stars were typically represented by small circles. When several stars (circles) are connected with lines, they became a constellation.
Sun On the Qing dynasty rank badge (buzi), the sun disk is typically depicted as a red disc, which represents the emperor.
In the Qing dynasty, animals, birds and creatures on a rank badges need to face the sun disc as symbol of loyalty to the Emperor.
Xingchen/ Three stars Xingchen (星辰), is depicted as several small circle, symbolizes the indefinite Universe. The number 3 has the meaning of having made everything and formed the beginning of things; this belief comes from Laozi, who said that the universe made the original matter of the Earth.
Waves and tides TypesDescriptionSymbolism/MeaningImagesLishuiDiagonal, parallel, (typically multicoloured) stripes or wavy lines.Represent the "deep sea"TidesTurbulent wavesWoshuiConcentric semicircles
Trees and plants
Pine tree Evergreen pine tree was a symbol of longevity.
Flowers Chrysanthemum
Chrysanthemum flowers symbolize longevity and autumn season. They could be used to decorate the garments of women.
Lotus flowers
Lotus flowers are symbols of purity and fruitfulness. Double lotus are wishes for blessing marriage and harmony.
Peach blossoms
Peach blossoms are symbols of spring season and happiness.
Peony flowers
Peony flowers are symbols of prosperity, wealth, and honour; they also a symbol of spring and feminine beauty. Peonies are often used on Chinese women's clothing.
Plum blossoms
Plum blossoms are symbol of winter season as it blooms in the cold. They are also one of the most famous flowers in China and are common perceived as a symbol of longevity. It is used as decoration to decorate , Chinese opera costumes as it is an indicator of wisdom and feminine charm.
or or , are motifs used to decorate the of the Song and Ming dynasty empresses.
Seeds Lotus seeds were auspicious patterns, which were used to embroider Chinese cloth shoes, such as (); they were symbol of the birth of a child.
Fruits The combination of longevity peaches, bergamot, and pomegranate represents multiple children and longevity.
Gourds A gourd is a symbol of fertility. Doubles gourds are associated with immortals and deities. PeachesA peach is a symbol of longevity; peaches were also associated with the deity Shoulao (God of longevity).
Pomegranate A pomegranate () is an auspicious pattern which represents the "abundance in all things" (especially, sons). It can also symbolize multiple children or offspring multiplied. Pomegranates can be used to embroider Chinese cloth shoes, such as ().
Mushroom
Lingzhi mushroom can be used on clothing, such as court clothing. The auspicious characteristics of the lingzhi mushroom is a unique aspect in Chinese culture and were even worshipped in ancient times.According ancient Taoist belief, the consumption of lingzhi allows one to never grow old and die. Confucian scholars have been referring to the Lingzhi as "fortune herb" or "fortune grass" since the Han dynasty and considered the circular lines on the lingzhi cap as an auspicious symbol (or as fortune halos). Lingzhi is therefore a symbol of Longevity, luck, fortune, peace, prosperity.
Auspicious mammal animals Many animal motifs are found on Chinese textile and are often found in combined with cloud designs. Textile patterns with animals and clouds have been popular, especially during the Han to the Jin dynasty around the 1st to the 3rd century.
Bats
Chinese bat () motifs often look like a butterfly. A bat is a symbol of happiness. Bats have an auspicious meaning as the Chinese words for () sounds similar to the phrase "abundant good fortune".