A Movado Ermeto watch was a pocket/purse watch manufactured between 1926 and 1985 by Movado in La Chaux-de-Fonds (Switzerland).Fritz von Osterhausen, The Movado History (1996): p. 86 The model, a joint creation between case maker Huguenin Frères and watch maker Movado, was introduced in 1926. It won the Grand Prix at the 1929 Barcelona International Exposition.

The trademark ErmetoErmeto trademark information derives from the Greek ερμητικός,Nicolas Amsellem, Movado ERMETO: La montre moderne d'un autre temps, 19 May 2021 transliterated as ermētikós, which means "hermetic, sealed", in reference to the characteristics of the case design, emphasizing the watch protection against dust, moisture and shocks, although it was not hermetic in the strict sense of the term. The rectangular case is made up of two sliding covers enclosing the timepiece inside.

The Ermeto range comprised four sizes, from smaller to bigger (approximate dimensions with the case closed included for reference purposes only, they may vary depending on each unit): "Baby" (43 x 26 mm), "Normal" (48 x 34 mm), "Master" (54 x 37 mm) and "Pullman" (100 x 70 mm). The latter a desk clock with an 8-day movement. The "Baby" was intended mainly for ladies' handbagsFritz von Osterhausen, The Movado History (1996): p. 76 whereas the "Normal" was promoted as a unisex model.

Unlike many of its Swiss competitors, Movado was at that time a manufacture d'horlogerie, making its own in-house movements,Zen Love, 3 Vintage Watches Illustrate Movado's Overlooked History, 12 April 2019Alessandro M., "Always In Motion" - The Story of the Movado brand, 3 January 2021 and so the Ermeto range was fitted with the company's different calibres according to the size of the case and complications added. Although movements from Lemania and A. Schild were used in the "Pullman" with alarm, and from A. Schild in the Ermetophon as well.Fritz von Osterhausen, The Movado History (1996): p. 89 Those complications included a triple calendar called Calendermeto ("Normal" size), an alarm used in the Jumbo ("Pullman" size) and the Ermetophon ("Normal" size), and the date, as seen in the Ermetoscope ("Normal" size) featuring a glass with date magnifier, and Calendine ("Baby" size).

The watch was manufactured in a variety of metal cases such as platinum, gold, silver, vermeil, steel and base metal, coverings of reptile skins, galuchat, etc., and finishings, such as lacquer, niello, enamel, guilloché enamel, etc. Although the case rectangular shape remained unchanged during its lifetime, the style of dials and hands evolved with times and, if original to the watch, help to date a certain piece.

The timepiece was conceived to be used with or without a chain to be placed in a pocket, purse or bag. Many incorporated a folding hinged strut in the back of the watch itself, so when the covers were opened, allowed the timepiece to be placed on a desk or bedside table, acting as a travel clock.

Movado's advertising of the period claimed that the Ermeto represented "Le troisième âge de la montre" (The third age of the watch), following the era of the pocket watch and the wrist watch.Fritz von Osterhausen, The Movado History (1996): p. 74

The product's success made that firms such as Cartier, Hermès, Tiffany, Van Cleef & Arpels, etc. were interested in it, hence the Ermetos sold with those brand names in the dial. Sometimes it bore the name of a given retailer too.

Among the historical figures known to have owned an Ermeto were Pope Pius XI, King Albert I of Belgium and his consort the Queen Elizabeth, King Edward VIII,1930 Ermeto leaflet showing the watches of Pius XI, Kings of Belgium and the then Prince of Wales Clara Bow,Appraisal of Clara Bow's 1928 Ermeto in the Art Deco style, Antiques Roadshow US 1998 Andy Warhol, who owned at least six different models,Jenny Dalton, Travel clocks, Travel Unravelled (Financial Times), 13 May 2017, p. 69 and Prince Charles, whose watch was stolen from St. James Palace in 1994 and later returned to him.Expert watches It is said that an early model was presented to Albert Einstein.Frank Edwards, Wristwatches: A Connoisseur's Guide (1997): p. 106

History "Hermetic" case by Huguenin Frères

The Ermeto's case design was first filed in Germany on 12 October 1926 by Swiss case maker Hugenin Frères of Le Locle. Patent number 443555 published 2 May 1927."Uhr", Huguenin Frères & Cie, Fabrique Niel in Le Locle, Schweiz The patent was also applied in EnglandPatent 278669, "Improvements related to Watch Cases", applied 24 June 1927, published 3 November 1927 and SwitzerlandPatent 126860, "Boîte de montre", applied 8 October 1927, published 2 July 1928 in 1927.

It consisted of a watch contained within a rectangular case. The timepiece own case, comprising movement, dial, winding and hand-setting mechanism, forms an autonomous unit which in turn is enclosed by a two-part metal case. These parts can be drawn apart, like curtains, to reveal the dial and check the time.

The idea was offered to different watch makers but only Movado took it up. Initially, Huguenin Frères had developed it as a pendant watch but, after some modifications, Movado launched it in 1926 as the timepiece we know today.

In 1930, an improvement was made by the case maker, applying a patent in SwitzerlandPatent 149140, "Montre en étui", applied 8 April 1930, published 2 November 1931 for an automatic strut or leg that displayed when the two covers of the case were opened, and returned to a folding position when they were closed. Other Ermetos have a non automatic strut or none at all, like the oldest ones.

Automatic winding case by Movado

In 1927, Isidore Ditesheim, brother of Achille Ditesheim founder of Movado, invented a mechanism by which the movement could be wound with the opening and closing of the case, thus making unnecessary the manual winding.

When the two sliding halves of the outer case are moved back and forth, two racks, one fitted in each half, engage a pinion on the winding stem, which cause the latter to turn and so the crown turns automatically and winds the piece. Each opening and closing of the case was designed to provide four hours of running time, therefore, it was only necessary to open the watch six times a day to power it for 24 hours, significantly reducing the number of windings required for this purpose.

This new system was only available in the so-called "Baby" and "Normal" models, according to the advertising of the period.1930 advertisement in French telling: Ermero "Master", standard winding. Ermeto "Normal", standard and automatic winding. Ermeto "Baby", automatic winding only In the second, the standard manual winding was also offered.

The patent was applied both in SwitzerlandPatent 127820, "Pièce d'horlogerie à remontoir", applied 6 September 1927, published 1 October 1928 and the USAPatent 1707906, "Winding Device for Timepieces", applied 3 December 1927, published 2 April 1929 in late 1927. In 1928 was applied in the UKPatent 296721, "Winding Device for Time Pieces", applied 29 February 1928, published 7 February 1929 and France.Patent 656813, "Pièce d'horlogerie à remontoir", applied 29 June 1928, published 14 May 1929

Movado's advertising praised the benefits of its new "Non-Stop" system:

The early success of the timepiece forced Hugenin Frères and Movado to make a joint warning against copies in 1929, claiming the following:

Despite this, several companies produced imitations of the watch, more than forty different models are known to have been made, but they couldn't repeat the Ermeto's success nor replicate the patented rack-winding system.

Citations

External links Ermeto advertising Article The Movado Ermeto by Dan Henry, 18 April 2017 Article The Movado Ermeto: The Original "Smart" Watch by Lorenzo Maillard, March 2019