Chinese headwear has a long history. According to some scholars, China used to be called "the Kingdom of Headwear" by people due to its variety of colourful and artistic style of hair ornament. There were various categories for headwear including (), (), (), (), and (). Chinese people also wore Chinese hairpins. Chinese women, in particular, like to use flowers (either natural or artificial) as hair decorations for centuries; they also wore shubi in their hair and sometimes wore the honggaitou on their weddings. Most Chinese headwear did not survive the Qing dynasty due to the Manchu imposed hair cutting and clothing changing policy.
Types of headwear for males +Headwear of MenNameDefinitionSuitable ageMatchPeriodImagesMian Guan (冕冠)Shier liu mian (十二旒冕)Twelve-tasselled Crown. Initially all Mian Guan were worn by emperors, later emperors only wore this type.AdultZhou – MingJiuliu mian (九旒冕)Nine-tasselled Crown. Worn by dukes and crown prince's servants.Zhou – Han OthersBaliu mian (八旒冕): Eight-tasselled Crown. Worn by princes and dukes. Qiliu mian (七旒冕): Seven-tasselled Crown. Worn by ministers. Wuliu mian (五旒冕): Five-tasselled Crown. Worn by viscounts and barons.Juebian (爵弁)Noble Cap. Ceremonial crown worn by shidafu (士大夫) nobles, worn during Guan Li and other rites such as marriage ceremonies.AdultZhou – MingPibian (皮弁)Leather Crown. Embedded with jades. Worn by all nobles.Liang Guan (梁冠)Tongtian Guan (通天冠)/ Gaoshan Guan (高山冠)Sky-reaching Crown/High Mountain Crown. Worn by emperors in special occasions.tongtianguanfu (通天冠服)Qin – MingYuanyou Guan (远游冠)Travel Crown. Worn by emperors and princes. Similar to Tongtian Guan. Also worn by dukes in Han dynasty.Diaochan Guan (貂蟬冠)Mink's Tail and Cicada's Wing Crown. Worn by emperor's servants and government officials. See also: Long Guan, Wu Guan.Tang – MingJinxian Guan (進賢冠)Recommending Crown. Worn by Confucian scholars and civil government officials. After the Xin dynasty, it was worn with the jieze (介帻) with the crown folded on top, later becoming one headwear. Number of beams across the crown determines rank“进贤冠，古缁布遗象也，斯盖文儒者之服。前高七寸，后高三寸，长八寸，有五梁、三梁、二梁、一梁。人主元服，始加缁布，则冠五梁进贤。三公及封郡公、县公、郡侯、县侯、乡亭侯，则冠三梁。卿、大夫、八座，尚书，关中内侯、二千石及千石以上，则冠两梁。中书郎、秘书丞郎、著作郎、尚书丞郎、太子洗马舍人、六百石以下至于令史、门郎、小史、并冠一梁。汉建初中，太官令冠两梁，亲省御膳为重也。博士两梁，崇儒也。宗室刘氏亦得两梁冠，示加服也。”Zhou – MingZhongjing Guan (忠靖冠)Loyal and stable crown. Worn by retired officials.MingWu guan (武冠)/Wu bian (武弁)/Wubian daguan (武弁大冠)Military Crown. Wuguan was derived from the (趙惠文冠), designed by King Wuling of Zhao, which was ornamented with a dang (璫; a gold ornament in the form of animals, such as dragons, cicada, and people) on the front and with sable's tail. By the Han dynasty, military caps called wubian were commonly worn by soldiery, with formal guan variants worn by high-ranking military officials and imperial bodyguards, which were decorated with long-tailed pheasant's tail feathers as a symbol of martial prowess. Zhou-JinShufa Guan (束发冠)Hair-gathering Crown. A small cap to gather hair inside, fixed with long hairpin. Daily wear of all male. Mini size, sometimes in shapes of Liangguan.Five Dynasties - MingChang Guan (长冠)Long Crown, also known as "Liu family crown" (刘氏冠) or "Magpie tail crown" (鹊尾冠). Designed and first worn by Emperor Gaozu of Han based on Chu headwear. Later worn by Han dynasty's emperors and high officials during ceremonies.HanLong Guan (籠冠)"Basket hat". Developed from the Wubian ("武弁") hat, alternatively also known as Wuguan "武冠", worn by military officials. Helmets or tall peaked caps; it extends down over the ears and neck. It is semi-transparent. Jin - MingLianhua Guan (莲花冠)Lotus Crown. First worn by highest rank Taoist Master, later also worn by the nobility. Currently used by Taoist priests.AdultTang - Modern timesFutou (襆頭)Chuijiao Putou (垂腳襆頭)Head cover/Head wrap. An early form of informal headwear dates back as early as Jin dynasty that later developed into several variations for wear in different occasions.Tang – MingZhanjiao Putou (展角幞頭)"Spread-horn head cover". Designed by Emperor Taizu. Elongated horns on both sides can keep the distance between officials so they couldn't whisper to each other during court assemblies.Changfu (Tang), Gongfu (Song-Ming)Tang – MingZhanchi Putou (展翅幞頭)"Spread-wing head cover". Commonly as "wushamao" (乌纱帽), or "black-muslin hat". Standard headwear of officials during the Ming dynasty. The term wushamao is still frequently used as Chinese slang referring to government positions.MingYishan Guan (翼善冠)Philanthropy Crown, with wings folded upwards. Worn by emperors and princes of the Ming dynasty, as well as kings of many China's tributaries. Sometimes decorated with jewels and dragons.MingTang jin (唐巾)Based on the futou, worn by commoners, particularly scholars.Song - MingGaowu mao (高屋帽)Baisha mao (白紗帽)Also known as white gauze hat. It was worn by the sovereigns of Liu-Song and Southern Qi, it was later inherited by the Sui dynasty.White gauze hat.Northern and Southern dynasties – SuiWusha Gaowu mao (烏紗高屋帽)High reach black gauze hat. See also, Long GuanNorthern and Southern dynasties – SongZhulu mao (逐鹿帽)Northern and Southern dynastiesDamao (大帽)Round hat with wide brim. Worn by people of lower-ranking occupations, such as government clerks and family servants. Yuan-MingChanzongmao (缠棕帽)A damao made of rattan, sometimes decorated with feathers attached on top of the hat. Military attire.Yuan-MingLiuheyitong mao (六合一統帽) / Xiao mao (小帽)/ Guapi mao (瓜皮帽)'Six-part' United hat. Name originate from Ming dynasty's founder Hongwu Emperor uniting China. The hat would later develop into the "Guapi mao"(瓜皮帽) skullcap in the Qing dynasty. Worn by commoners.Ming - QingZhanli (毡笠) Wide brimmed hat.SongJin (巾)/ Tou jin (头巾)/ Zhajin (扎巾)Headscarf worn by commoners, tied around the head or sometimes the topknot to protect the hair. In the Song dynasty, the headscarf was also secured with a decorative ring.Zhou - MingJinze (巾帻) /Jieze (介帻) / Pingshanze (平上幘)A cylindrical cap; it has a higher back and lower front. Originally it was a soldiers' headscarf that later developed into a head covering cap in the Han Dynasty and adopted into widespread use. A red jinze called chize (赤帻) was used by military personnel, while another variant called jieze(介帻) is used by civil officials and servants. Later developed into the pingshangze, which had a flatter top decorated with a bamboo slip, worn by military officials.Han - Tang dynastyCheng zi guan (程子冠) / Fangshan jin (方山巾)Worn by Cheng Yi and Cheng Hao. Developed from Dongpo jin. Formal wear, popular with Neo-Confucian scholars.AdultSong – MingChunyang jin (純陽巾) / Letian jin (樂天巾)Named after Lü Chunyang and Bai Letian. Popularly worn by scholar-gentry and Taoists.AdultMing - Modern timesDongpo jin (東坡巾)Named after and supposedly worn by Su Dongpo, but originated from Five Dynasties period. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultFive Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms - MingFu jin (幅巾)Popularly worn by scholar-gentry.AdultHan – MingHunyuan jin (混元巾)Worn by Quanzhen School Taoists, popularised during the Qing dynasty.AdultMing - Modern timesJie jin (結巾) / Jiang jin (將巾)Also known as "general's headscarf". Worn by tying the two ends of the kerchief on top of the head. Commonly worn by military personnel.AdultSong - MingGuan jin (綸巾)/Zhuge jin (諸葛巾)Originally a style of fujin, later resembling a liangguan. Named after Zhuge Liang, who wore a guanjin.AdultHan – MingHuayang jin (華陽巾)Worn by Taoists.AdultFive dynasties – QingLei jin (雷巾)Shaped similarly to ru jin, only with a fabric hanging from the back of the head, with two soft ribbons. Also popularly worn by Taoists.AdultMing – QingPiaopiao jin (飘飘巾) / Piao jin (飘巾)Popular among scholar-gentry. Named after the flowing ribbons behind it. Later inspired opera costume such as qiaoliangjin (桥梁巾) for its refined and cultured appearance.AdultMingLi jin (吏巾)Worn by minor government officials, it resembles a wushamao but made with softer material and has a square top.AdultMingRu jin (儒巾)Ruist scarf. Popularly worn by scholars, especially those who have yet to earn the title of Juren at the imperial examination. Believed to be based on a headwear called zhangfu (章甫).AdultSong – MingSifang pingding jin (四方平定巾) / Fang jin (方巾) / Sifang jin (四方巾)First worn and named by Yang Weizhen. Emperor Zhu Yuanzhang was pleased by its appearance and name, and ordered it to be used by scholars and minor government clerks.AdultMingWangjin (網巾)Worn under headwear to secure and protect the hair.AdultMingXiaoyao jin (逍遥巾)Also known as "Heye jin" (荷叶巾), "Huadingtou jin" (花顶头巾). Worn by commoners, later adopted by Taoists. Originally worn by scholars to differentiate from peasants.AdultSong - MingYun jin (雲巾)Modeled after the Zhongjin guan, but worn by the scholar-gentry. Named after the "cloud" shapes formed on the sides.AdultMingZaoli jin (皁隸巾)Named after and worn by yamen runners. Due to the low status and the headwear not able to cover the forehead, it is also nicknamed "faceless guan"(無顏之冠)AdultMingZhouzi jin (周子巾)Worn by commoners.AdultSong – MingZhuangzi jin (莊子巾)Also called "Dao jin" (道巾). Named after Zhuangzi. Worn by common scholars and Taoists, later exclusively by Taoist priests.AdultSong – Modern timesBeiye jin (貝葉巾)Resembling palm tree leaves. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingChanfu jin (蟬腹巾)Resembling cicada's thorax. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingKui jin (葵巾)Resembling flower petals. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingQinwei jin (琴尾巾)Resembling a part of qin. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingRuyi jin (如意巾)Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingSandaopenglai jin (三島蓬萊巾)Representing the three islands of Mount Penglai. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingXiantao jin (仙桃巾)Resembling Peaches of Immortality. Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingXizhi jin (羲之巾)Worn by commoners, particularly scholar-gentry.AdultMingZhigong jin (志公巾)Also known as "Zhigong mao" (志公帽). Worn by Buddhist monks during ceremony.AdultMing - QingHutou mao (虎头帽)Tiger head hat.ChildrenSong - Modern timesZhuangyuan mao (状元帽)Champion hat.ChildrenSong - Modern times Chixiao mao (鴟鴞帽)Owl hat.ChildrenSong - Modern times Xianggong mao (相公帽)Husband hat.ChildrenSong - Modern times
Types of headwear for females
+Headwear of FemaleNameDefinitionDescriptionSuitable ageMatchPeriodImagesJi (笄)Hairpins.Single-pronged hairpin. They were often inscribed with auspicious patterns.AdultNeolithic – QinZan (簪)Ornamental hairpins.Long, single-pronged hairpin after Qin dynasty. Small ornaments (e.g. flowers) could also be affixed on itAdultHan – QingChai (钗)U-shaped or V-shaped hairpin.Two-pronged hairpin.AdultHan – QingThree-legged hairpin.Typically made of bronze.JinYanbin (掩鬓)The hairpin covering sideburns.AdultMing – QingBuyao (步摇); "step-sway" or "dangling hairpin" or literally "dangling with one's walking steps".Buyao Zan (步摇簪)Buyao hairpin.Single-pronged hairpin with dangling decorations.AdultHan – Qing Buyao Shu (步摇树)Buyao Tree.Tree-shaped dangling decoration centered at front of hair.AdultHan – Ming Buyao Guan (步摇冠)Buyao Crown.Crown consisted of dangling decorations.AdultHan – MingZan hua (簪花)Flower hairpin.Could be fresh flower, silk flower, and flowers made with other materials. Man could also wear.AdultTang - QingHuasheng (華勝)Round flower hairpin centered front of hair.AdultHan – SongDi Guan (翟冠)AdultSong - MingHua Guan (花冠)Flower Crown.AdultHan – SongTang gongzhu touguan (唐公主头冠)Tang Princess's CrownAdultTang Feng Guan (鳳冠)Huashu Guan (花树冠)Flower Tree Crown.AdultTangFeicui Fengguan (翡翠凤冠)Jade Phoenix Crown.AdultTangLong Feng Huacha Guan (龙凤花钗冠)Dragon Phoenix Hairpin Crown.AdultSong-MingYanju Guan