The 2019 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 12 locations. Bouldering, lead and speed competitions were each held in 6 locations. The season began on 5 April in Meiringen, Switzerland with the first bouldering competition in the season, and concluded on 27 October in Inzai, Japan, with the last lead climbing competition in the season.
The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.
Olympic qualification
For the Tokyo 2020 Olympics athletes can qualify through either the IFSC Combined World Championships, the Olympic Qualifying Event or the Continental Championships. The Olympic Qualifying Event is an invitation only event open to the 22 highest ranked climbers on the World Cup circuit who haven't already qualified.
Highlights of the season In bouldering, at the World Cup in Moscow, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. At the World Cup in Vail, Garnbret won her sixth consecutive gold medal and became the first climber ever to make a clean sweep of Bouldering World Cup season by winning six out of six events held this year. Moreover, she also became the first female climber to win overall World Cup season titles in lead (2016, 2017, 2018) and bouldering (2019). Ai Mori of Japan, in her first year of open eligibility, made her the World Cup debut in Meiringen, then won her first medal (bronze) at the World Cup in Wujiang, China.
In speed, at the World Cup in Chongqing, YiLing Song of China set a new world record of 7.101s, breaking the previous world record of 7.32s set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wroclaw and Anouck Jaubert of France at the 2018 Speed World Cup in Moscow. At the World Cup in Xiamen, Aries Susanti Rahayu of Indonesia set a new world record of 6.995s in the final race, breaking Song's 7.101s, and becoming the first woman in the history of the sport to record a time under 7 seconds.
In lead, Chaehyun Seo of South Korea, in her first year of open eligibility, made her World Cup debut in Villars and claimed her first medal (silver) there. Then, she won the next 4 Lead World Cups and placed third in the last one, finishing her debut season with a 2019 Lead World Cup Season Champion title. Also in her debut season, Natsuki Tanii of Japan earned her first medal (bronze) in Briançon and continued her consistent performance throughout the season and thus claiming third place of the overall lead season ranking. Other notable athletes in their World Cup debut season: Ai Mori (JPN), YueTong Zhang (CHN).
Overview
No.LocationGoldSilverBronze1 Meiringen, SwitzerlandApril, 5–6BM Adam Ondra4T4z 10 9 Tomoa Narasaki 3T3z 7 6 Rei Sugimoto 2T3z 6 7W Janja Garnbret 3T4z 6 6 Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 9 12 Shauna Coxsey 2T3z 3 42 Moscow, RussiaApril, 12–14BM Jernej Kruder 4T4z 8 6 Adam Ondra 3T4z 5 7 Yoshiyuki Ogata 3T3z 6 5W Janja Garnbret 4T4z 4 4 Shauna Coxsey 4T4z 6 6 Fanny Gibert 4T4z 6 6SM Bassa Mawem 5.730 Vladislav Deulin 11.545 Aspar Jaelolo 6.083W YiLing Song 7.389 Anouck Jaubert 7.682 Iuliia Kaplina 8.2333 Chongqing, ChinaApril, 26–28BM Manuel Cornu 3T4z 5 5 Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 6 Anze Peharc 3T4z 10 10W Janja Garnbret 4T4z 8 6 Akiyo Noguchi 4T4z 12 9 Jessica Pilz 3T4z 8 11SM Alfian Muhammad 5.970 Kostiantyn Pavlenko 6.315 Sergey Rukin 6.808W YiLing Song 7.673 Aleksandra Rudzinska fall Iuliia Kaplina 8.4294 Wujiang, ChinaMay, 3–5BM Tomoa Narasaki 3T4z 7 8 Kai Harada 3T4z 7 13 Jakob Schubert 1T4z 2 9W Janja Garnbret 4T4z 5 4 Akiyo Noguchi 3T4z 4 5 Ai Mori 3T4z 11 9SM Dmitrii Timofeev 5.597 Bassa Mawem 5.810 Ludovico Fossali 5.856W Aleksandra Rudzinska 7.313 Aries Susanti Rahayu 7.607 Anouck Jaubert 7.5165 Munich, GermanyMay, 18–19BM Jakob Schubert3T4z 7 8 Adam Ondra3T3z 3 3 Jan Hojer2T4z 4 14W Janja Garnbret4T4z 5 5 Fanny Gibert4T4z 8 7 Mia Krampl3T3z 9 96 Vail, United StatesJune, 7–8BM Yoshiyuki Ogata4T4z 11 9 Tomoa Narasaki3T4z 5 5 Jongwon Chon3T4z 6 7 W Janja Garnbret4T4z 9 8 Akiyo Noguchi3T4z 5 6 Fanny Gibert2T4z 3 97 Villars, SwitzerlandJuly, 4–6LM Sascha LehmannTop YuFei PanTop Alexander MegosTopW Janja Garnbret36+ Chaehyun Seo35+ Ai Mori35+SM Aleksandr Shikov5.542 Dmitrii Timofeevfall Jan Kriz7.765W Anouck Jaubert7.660 YiLing Song8.415 Elizaveta Ivanova7.5868 Chamonix, FranceJuly, 11–13LM Adam Ondra47+ Alexander Megos44 Jakob Schubert43+W Chaehyun Seo34+ YueTong Zhang34+ Jessica Pilz34+SM Alfian Muhammad5.764 QiXin Zhong6.382 Vladislav Deulin6.057W YiLing Song99.000 Elizaveta Ivanovafalse start Aleksandra Kalucka7.6619 Briançon, FranceJuly, 19–20LM Hidemasa Nishida39+ Hiroto Shimizu38+ Shuta Tanaka38+W Chaehyun SeoTop Janja GarnbretTop Natsuki Tanii41+10 Kranj, SloveniaSeptember, 28–29LM Adam OndraTop Kai Harada32 Alberto Ginés López31.5W Chaehyun Seo34.5+ Jessica Pilz34.5 Lucka Rakovec34+11 Xiamen, ChinaOctober, 18–20LM Adam OndraTop Taisei HommaTop Tomoa NarasakiTopW Chaehyun SeoTop Akiyo NoguchiTop Jain KimTopSM QiXin Zhong7.208 Lev Rudatskiyfall Vladislav Deulin5.635W Aries Susanti Rahayu6.995 YiLing Song9.032 Mariia Krasavina7.94712 Inzai, JapanOctober, 26–27LM Hiroto Shimizu38+ Alberto Ginés López36+ Stefano Ghisolfi32+W Jain KimTop Janja Garnbret39 Chaehyun Seo37+OVERALLBM Tomoa Narasaki340.00 Adam Ondra335.00 Yoshiyuki Ogata264.00W Janja Garnbret500.00 Akiyo Noguchi320.00 Fanny Gibert308.00LM Adam Ondra300.00 Alberto Ginés López256.00 Sean McColl206.00W Chaehyun Seo480.00 Janja Garnbret352.00 Natsuki Tanii243.00SM Bassa Mawem329.00 Vladislav Deulin312.00 Alfian Muhammad286.00W YiLing Song460.00 Anouck Jaubert355.00 Aries Susanti Rahayu333.00CM Tomoa Narasaki1728 Adam Ondra2072 Jakob Schubert27720W Janja Garnbret255 Akiyo Noguchi4104 Jessica Pilz14400NATIONAL TEAMSBA Japan1693 Slovenia1359 France766LA Japan1695 Slovenia988 South Korea758SA Russia1637 China1375 France1004
Bouldering
The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019: Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail 1 Tomoa Narasaki 340 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80 1. 100 ( — ) 2. 80 2 Adam Ondra 335 1. 100 2. 80 ( — ) 14. 24 2. 80 5. 51 3 Yoshiyuki Ogata 264 8. 40 3. 65 (29. 1) 9. 37 15. 22 1. 100 4 Chon Jong-won 228 5. 51 10. 34 (15. 22) 11. 31 6. 47 3. 65 5 Kokoro Fujii 227 4. 55 9. 37 6. 47 5. 51 ( — ) 9. 37 6 Jan Hojer 223 (21. 9 *) 12. 28 12. 28 6. 47 3. 65 4. 55 7 Alexey Rubtsov 214 7. 43 11. 31 5. 51 10. 34 4. 55 ( — ) 8 205 15. 22 4. 55 3. 65 20. 12 5. 51 ( — ) 9 Jernej Kruder 191 11. 31 1. 100 (34. 0) 16. 20 11. 31 21. 9 10 Jakob Schubert 184 47. 0 27. 3 18. 16 3. 65 1. 100 ( — )
Women The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2019: Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail 1 Janja Garnbret 500 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 1. 100 (1. 100) 2 Akiyo Noguchi 320 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80 2. 80 ( — ) 2. 80 3 308 4. 55 3. 65 7. 43 (13. 25) * 2. 80 3. 65 4 Futaba Ito 206 9. 37 6. 47 5. 51 7. 43 ( — ) 12. 28 5 Jessica Pilz 203 21. 9 * 5. 51 3. 65 5. 51 12. 27 * ( — ) 6 Petra Klingler 180 5. 51 8. 40 4. 55 10. 34 ( — ) ( — ) 7 Lučka Rakovec 163 16. 20 4. 55 12. 28 15. 22 8. 38 * ( — ) 8 Katja Kadic 161 12. 28 19. 14 6. 47 13. 25 * 6. 47 ( — ) 9 Julia Chanourdie 157 17. 17 * ( 31. 0 ) 14. 24 6. 47 4. 55 19. 14 10 Shauna Coxsey 145 3. 65 2. 80 ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) ( — ) 10 Ievgeniia Kazbekova 145 13. 26 10. 32 * 25. 5 * 11. 31 5. 51 ( — )
* = Joint place with another athlete
National Teams The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2019:
Country names as used by the IFSC
Rank Name Points Meiringen Moscow Chongqing Wujiang Munich Vail 1 Japan 1693 322 210 321 435 (86) 405 2 Slovenia 1359 213 331 280 201 334 (109) 3 France 766 (75) 151 205 104 149 157 4 Austria 591 75 99 84 137 196 (15) 5 Germany 534 63 80 74 (61) 131 186 6 United States of America 468 102 49 89 (38) 48 180 7 Russian Federation 396 43 136 55 79 83 (—) 8 Republic of Korea 353 68 77 (34) 78 47 83 9 Czech Republic 336 100 81 (0) 24 80 51 10 Great Britain 330 101 119 34 9 67 (6)
Lead The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019: RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars1 Adam Ondra300.00( — )1. 100.001. 100.00( — )1. 100.00( — )2 Alberto Ginés López256.002. 80.005. 51.003. 65.0022. 9.005. 51.0026. (5.00)3 Sean McColl206.006. 47.0026. (5.00)4. 55.005. 51.007. 43.0021. 10.004 Kai Harada195.0025. 6.004. 55.002. 80.00( — )8. 40.0019. 14.005 Stefano Ghisolfi190.003. 65.0013. 25.006. 47.0015. 22.0026. (5.00)11. 31.006 Hiroto Shimizu180.001. 100.00( — )( — )2. 80.00( — )( — )7 Kokoro Fujii165.0020. 12.0011. 31.005. 51.00( — )11. 31.008. 40.007 Alexander Megos165.00( — )( — )( — )16. 20.002. 80.003. 65.009 Sean Bailey158.008. 40.008. 40.0014. 24.006. 47.0024. 7.00( — )10 Sascha Lehmann152.00( — )( — )( — )13. 26.0013. 26.001. 100.00
Women The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2019: RankNAMEPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars1 Seo Chae-hyun480.003. (65.00)1. 100.001. 100.001. 100.001. 100.002. 80.002 Janja Garnbret352.002. 80.004. 55.0013. (26.00)2. 80.009. 37.001. 100.003 Natsuki Tanii243.006. 47.005. 51.00( — )3. 65.008. 40.008. 40.004 Lucka Rakovec226.0016. (20.00)6. 47.003. 65.0014. 24.007. 43.006. 47.005 Akiyo Noguchi224.004. 55.002. 80.00( — )( — )10. 34.004. 55.006 Ai Mori220.0020. 12.009. 37.005. 51.00( — )4. 55.003. 65.007 Zhang Yuetong207.00( — )7. 43.00( — )6. 47.002. 80.009. 37.008 Jain Kim206.001. 100.003. 65.009. 37.00( — )( — )27. 4.009 Mia Krampl189.0022. 9.0024. (7.00)7. 43.004. 55.0011. 31.005. 51.0010 Jessica Pilz176.00( — )( — )2. 80.00( — )3. 65.0011. 31.00
National Teams The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2019:
Country names as used by the IFSC RankNationPointsInzaiXiamenKranjBriançonChamonixVillars1 Japan1695345368306375(220)3012 Slovenia988(109)1122102241393033 Republic of Korea758174206137116(106)1254 United States of America61215110375179104(22)5 Austria525(47)5314391166726 Czech Republic48418136146(0)147377 France44066(44)65112111868 Italy434115909187(29)519 Germany381(24)7930511388310 Great Britain3606862(31)7511045
Speed The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are six competitions in the season, but only the best five attempts are counted. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.
Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Speed World Cup 2019: