2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup

The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held in 14 locations. There were 22 events: 7 bouldering, 7 lead, and 8 speed events. The season began on 13 April in Meiringen, Switzerland, and concluded on 28 October in Xiamen, China.

The top 3 in each competition received medals, and the overall winners were awarded trophies. At the end of the season an overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

The winners for bouldering were Jernej Kruder and Miho Nonaka, for lead Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, for speed Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert, and for combined Jakob Schubert and Janja Garnbret, men and women respectively. The National Team for bouldering was Japan, for lead Austria, and for speed Russian Federation.

Highlights of the season In bouldering, at the World Cup in Munich, Janja Garnbret of Slovenia flashed all boulders in the final round to take the win. Miho Nonaka and Akiyo Noguchi, both of Japan, were the only athletes who never missed a podium in all 7 bouldering competitions in the season.

In lead climbing, Janja Garnbret was the only athlete who never missed a podium in all 7 lead competitions in the season.

In speed climbing, at the first Speed World Cup of the season in Moscow, Anouck Jaubert of France matched the world record of 7.32 seconds set by Iuliia Kaplina of Russia at the 2017 World Games in Wrocław. Then at the end of the season, French athletes, Bassa Mawem and Anouck Jaubert clinched the overall titles of the season for men and women respectively, making it double speed titles for France.

Changes from the previous season For the 2018 season the IFSC changed the scoring method for its tournaments. Previously in bouldering, topped boulders were the deciding factor, followed as tiebreakers in decreasing order of importance: attempts to tops, bonus holds (renamed to zones), and attempts to bonus holds. The first and second tiebreakers switched places which means that the results were determined by tops, zones, attempts to tops, and attempts to zones. Also athletes now need to demonstrate firm control of the two starting hand holds. Previously touching all four marked start points in any manner was deemed sufficient to start an attempt.

Overview No. Location D G Gold Silver Bronze 1 Meiringen 13 – 14 April 2018 B M Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki Alexey Rubtsov W Miho Nonaka Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi 2 Moscow 21 – 22 April 2018 B M Tomoa Narasaki Jernej Kruder Gregor Vezonik W Janja Garnbret Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi S M Reza Alipour Vladislav Deulin Veddriq Leonardo W Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina Elena Timofeeva 3 Chongqing 5 – 6 May 2018 B M Kokoro Fujii Sean McColl Alexey Rubtsov W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Staša Gejo S M Dmitrii Timofeev Aspar Jaelolo Danyil Boldyrev W Aries Susanti Rahayu Elena Timofeeva Puji Lestari 4 Tai'an 12 – 13 May 2018 B M Alex Khazanov Jernej Kruder Gregor Vezonik W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Fanny Gibert S M Bassa Mawem Sabri Sabri Dmitrii Timofeev W Anouck Jaubert Sari Agustina Aries Susanti Rahayu 5 Hachioji 2 – 3 June 2018 B M Gabriele Moroni Tomoa Narasaki Rei Sugimoto W Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka Ekaterina Kipriianova 6 Vail 8 – 9 June 2018 B M Rei Sugimoto Sean Bailey Tomoa Narasaki W Alex Puccio Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi 7 Villars 6 – 7 July 2018 L M Jakob Schubert Romain Desgranges Tomoa Narasaki W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Jain Kim S M Aleksandr Shikov Aleksandr Shilov Danyil Boldyrev W Anouck Jaubert Victoire Andrier Mariia Krasavina 8 Chamonix 11 – 13 July 2018 L M Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert Alex Megos W Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Jain Kim S M Danyil Boldyrev Dmitrii Timofeev Bassa Mawem W Aleksandra Rudzinska Anna Tsyganova Mariia Krasavina 9 Briançon 20 – 21 July 2018 L M Alex Megos Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Anak Verhoeven 10 Arco 27 – 28 July 2018 L M Jakob Schubert Stefano Ghisolfi Domen Škofic W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Anak Verhoeven S M Danyil Boldyrev Aleksandr Shilov Reza Alipour W Iuliia Kaplina Mariia Krasavina Anouck Jaubert 11 Munich 17 – 18 August 2018 B M Gregor Vezonik Jernej Kruder Jakob Schubert W Janja Garnbret Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi 12 Kranj 29 – 30 September 2018 L M Stefano Ghisolfi Jakob Schubert Masahiro Higuchi W Jain Kim Janja Garnbret Hannah Schubert 13 Wujiang 20 – 21 October 2018 L M Romain Desgranges Jakob Schubert Hyunbin Min W Janja Garnbret Jain Kim – Jessica Pilz S M Aspar Jaelolo Ludovico Fossali Reza Alipour W Aries Susanti Rahayu Anouck Jaubert Iuliia Kaplina 14 Xiamen 27 – 28 October 2018 L M Domen Škofic Stefano Ghisolfi Hyunbin Min W Jessica Pilz Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi S M Bassa Mawem Aspar Jaelolo Reza Alipour W Aries Susanti Rahayu Iuliia Kaplina Anouck Jaubert OVERALL B M Jernej Kruder Tomoa Narasaki Rei Sugimoto W Miho Nonaka Akiyo Noguchi Fanny Gibert L M Jakob Schubert Stefano Ghisolfi Romain Desgranges Domen Škofic W Janja Garnbret Jessica Pilz Jain Kim S M Bassa Mawem Danyil Boldyrev Dmitrii Timofeev W Anouck Jaubert Aries Susanti Rahayu Iuliia Kaplina C M Jakob Schubert Tomoa Narasaki Kokoro Fujii W Janja Garnbret Akiyo Noguchi Miho Nonaka NATIONAL TEAMS B A Japan Slovenia France L A Austria Japan Slovenia S A Russia Indonesia France

Bouldering

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There were seven competitions in the season, but only the best six attempts were counted. The national ranking was the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses were not counted.

Men The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen 1 Jernej Kruder 442.00 2. 80.00 4. 55.00 8. (38.00) 2. 80.00 6. 47.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2 Tomoa Narasaki 400.00 9. 35.00 3. 65.00 2. 80.00 8. 40.00 11. (31.00) 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 3 Rei Sugimoto 334.00 8. 40.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 12. (28.00) 10. 34.00 8. 40.00 4 Alexey Rubtsov 296.00 14. (23.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 12. 27.00 3. 65.00 5. 51.00 3. 65.00 5 Gregor Vezonik 280.00 1. 100.00 14. 24.00 - 3. 65.00 13. 26.00 3. 65.00 - 6 Kokoro Fujii 260.00 7. 43.00 18. (16.00) 16. 20.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 17. 18.00 12. 28.00 7 Chon Jong-won 247.00 - 7. 43.00 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 - 4. 55.00 6. 47.00 8 Tomoaki Takata 218.00 17. 18.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 25. (5.00) 9. 37.00 5. 51.00 9 Yuji Fujiwaki 207.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 11. 31.00 15. 22.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00 9 Jakob Schubert 207.00 3. 65.00 - - 12. 27.00 4. 55.00 25. 5.00 4. 55.00

Women The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Bouldering World Cup 2018: Rank Name Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen 1 Miho Nonaka 500.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00 2 Akiyo Noguchi 495.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 3. (65.00) 3 Fanny Gibert 320.00 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 3. 65.00 8. (40.00) 5. 51.00 5. 51.00 4 Janja Garnbret 280.00 1. 100.00 - - - - 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 5 Katja Kadic 246.00 5. 51.00 23. (7.00) 11. 31.00 7. 43.00 6. 47.00 10. 34.00 8. 40.00 6 Staša Gejo 222.00 - - 4. 55.00 4. 55.00 3. 65.00 15. 22.00 13. 25.00 7 Ekaterina Kipriianova 210.00 6. 47.00 - 3. 65.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 21. 9.00 - 8 Futaba Ito 179.00 7. 43.00 - 6. 47.00 13. 26.00 16. 20.00 8. 40.00 27. 3.00 9 Shauna Coxsey 174.00 - 7. 43.00 9. 37.00 - - 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 10 Alma Bestvater 168.00 12. 28.00 6. 47.00 5. 51.00 23. 7.00 12. 28.00 23. 7.00 -

National Teams The results of the ten most successful countries of the Bouldering World Cup 2018:

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank Nation Points Munich Vail Hachioji Tai'an Chongqing Moscow Meiringen 1 2269 (337) 387 419 363 371 362 367 2 Slovenia 1344 345 (108) 109 208 139 310 233 3 823 163 (91) 102 111 197 93 157 4 Austria 735 173 61 (22) 110 154 64 173 5 Russian Federation 591 85 (37) 144 101 121 72 68 6 Germany 534 103 143 69 58 112 49 (27) 7 503 15 284 86 57 9 (3) 52 8 Republic of Korea 418 0 81 75 89 - 98 75 9 Great Britain 366 21 74 101 30 (19) 47 93 10 Italy 269 22 (1) 139 24 7 48 29

Lead

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men 6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in parentheses) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018. Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars 1 Jakob Schubert 495.00 16. (20.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2 Stefano Ghisolfi 466.00 2. 80.00 5. 51.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 5. (51.00) 1. 100.00 4. 55.00 3 Romain Desgranges 356.00 6. 47.00 1. 100.00 20. 12.00 9. 37.00 2. 80.00 27. (4.00) 2. 80.00 3 Domen Škofic 356.00 1. 100.00 19. (14.00) 12. 28.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 7. 43.00 5 Min Hyun-bin 251.00 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 - 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 18. 16.00 6. 47.00 6 Alexander Megos 230.00 - - - 12. 28.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 9. 37.00 7 Taisei Homma 217.00 5. 51.00 8. 40.00 13. 26.00 - 9. 37.00 7. 43.00 16. 20.00 8 Sascha Lehmann 206.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 25. (6.00) 6. 47.00 7. 43.00 8. 40.00 17. 18.00 9 Yuki Hada 192.00 7. 43.00 20. (12.00) 7. 43.00 14. 24.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00 8. 40.00 10 Francesco Vettorata 168.00 15. 22.00 6. 47.00 6. 47.00 22. 9.00 20. 12.00 11. 31.00 -

Women 6 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing Worldcup 2018. Rank Name Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars 1 Janja Garnbret 550.00 2. 80.00 1. 90.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 1. 100.00 2. (80.00) 1. 100.00 2 Jessica Pilz 505.00 1. 100.00 3. 65.00 4. (55.00) 2. 80.00 2. 80.00 1. 100.00 2. 80.00 3 Jain Kim 354.00 10. 34.00 1. 90.00 1. 100.00 - - 3. 65.00 3. 65.00 4 Manon Hily 238.00 14. (24.00) 8. 40.00 11. 31.00 6. 47.00 11. 31.00 10. 34.00 4. 55.00 5 Mei Kotake 228.00 5. 51.00 13. 26.00 9. 37.00 16. 20.00 - 5. 51.00 7. 43.00 6 Tjasa Kalan 224.00 7. 43.00 6. 45.00 12. 28.00 9. 37.00 28. (3.00) 9. 37.00 9. 34.00 7 Hannah Schubert 219.00 11. 31.00 9. 37.00 3. 65.00 19. (14.00) 13. 26.00 8. 40.00 16. 20.00 8 Mina Markovič 214.00 6. 47.00 22. (9.00) 8. 40.00 10. 34.00 5. 51.00 12. 28.00 19. 14.00 8 Akiyo Noguchi 214.00 3. 65.00 4. 55.00 - - - 7. 43.00 5. 51.00 10 Mia Krampl 211.00 4. 55.00 6. 45.00 10. 34.00 - 7. 43.00 21. 10.00 14. 24.00

National Teams For National Team Ranking, 3 best results per competition and category were counted (not counting results in brackets). Rank Nation Points Xiamen Wujiang Kranj Arco Briançon Chamonix Villars 1 Austria 1528 230 269 264 250 (218) 232 283 2 1468 305 246 242 160 (135) 235 280 3 Slovenia 1428 282 194 (182) 238 266 210 238 4 959 95 160 (81) 185 251 84 184 5 Italy 822 118 135 202 111 99 157 (55) 6 Republic of Korea 652 107 177 107 41 (27) 91 129 7 Belgium 382 80 55 (22) 105 65 47 30 8 377 15 13 (0) 108 89 105 47 9 Suisse 373 40 (18) 67 78 49 71 68 10 340 - - 23 45 100 111 61

Speed

An overall ranking was determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event.

Men 7 best competition results were counted (not counting points in brackets) for IFSC Climbing World Cup 2018.