The 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships, the 15th edition, were held in Innsbruck, Austria from 6 to 16 September 2018.Next IFSC World Championships Announcement The championships consisted of lead, speed, bouldering, paraclimbing, and combined events.
Medal summary Medalists Men's Lead Men's Speed Men's Bouldering Men's Combined Women's Lead Women's Speed Women's Bouldering Women's Combined
Medal table
Lead
The lead competition was the first event held at the 2018 World Championships. The women's qualification took place on the opening day, 6 September, at the Kletterzentrum, and the men's was held the following day at the same location. Women's semi-final and final were held on 8 September and the respective men's competitions the next day both at the Olympiaworld.
Women
101 athletes attended the women's lead competition. In the final penultimate climber Jessica Pilz was the first to top the route. Janja Garnbret came out as the last climber and topped the route as well. As both climbers had the same first tiebreaker by virtue of having topped the semi-final route the ranking was decided by their time on the final route, which Pilz had climbed faster and thus was awarded the gold medal. Bronze went to Kim Ja-in.
Rank Name Score 1 Jessica Pilz Top2 Janja Garnbret Top 3 Kim Ja-in 34+ 4 Mei Kotake 33+ 5 Ashima Shiraishi 32 6 Anak Verhoeven 31+ 7 Mia Krampl 31+ 8 Akiyo Noguchi 31+ 9 Hannah Schubert 31+ 10 Laura Rogora 24+
Men
124 athletes attended the men's lead competition. Adam Ondra and Jakob Schubert achieved the same score (36+) on the final route. Innsbruck-born Schubert won the gold medal due to his better tie-breaker, having achieved the better score in the semi-final. The bronze medal went to Alex Megos (33.5)
Rank Name Score 1 Jakob Schubert 36+2 Adam Ondra 36+ 3 Alex Megos 33.5 4 Meichi Narasaki 31+ 5 Domen Škofic 29+ 6 Jakub Konečný 29+ 6 Tomoaki Takata 29+ 8 Sascha Lehmann 23 9 Marcello Bombardi 20+ 10 Kai Harada 16+
Speed
The speed competitions took place in the Olympiaworld with the qualification rounds and the finals both being held on 13 September.
Women
94 athletes competed in the women's speed climbing event. Aleksandra Rudzinska (7.56s) won the final of the speed competition over her Polish countrywoman Anna Brozek (7.91s). Mariia Krasavina won the bronze medal in the small final against Aleksandra Kalucka, who false started.
Men
125 athletes competed in the men's speed competition. Reza Alipour (5.630s) won the final against Bassa Mawem (fell). In the small final Stanislav Kokorin (6.028s) won against QiXin Zhong (fell) and thus claimed the bronze medal.
Bouldering
The bouldering event was held over four days. The qualifying took place at Kletterzentrum with the women's qualification held on 11 September and the men's on 12 September. Semi-finals and finals were held at the Olympiaworld on 14 September for the women and 15 September for the men.
Women
112 athletes attended the women's bouldering competition. In the bouldering final lead finalists Janja Garnbret, Akiyo Noguchi, and Jessica Pilz made another appearance. The World Cup bouldering seasonal winner Miho Nonaka, reigning world champion Petra Klingler, and Staša Gejo completed the final. Garnbret won gold over Noguchi and Gejo won bronze.
Rank Name Score 1 Janja Garnbret 2T3z 7 72 Akiyo Noguchi 2T2z 4 3 3 Staša Gejo 1T2z 1 6 4 Jessica Pilz 0T2z 0 4 5 Miho Nonaka 0T2z 0 4 6 Petra Klingler 0T0z 0 0
Men
150 athletes attended the men's bouldering competition, making it the largest individual event at the World Championship. Kai Harada (4T4z 7 6) won the Gold medal over Jongwon Chon (3T4z 9 10) and Gregor Vezonik (3T4z 9 17). The reigning champion, Tomoa Narasaki, and the World Cup seasonal winner, Jernej Kruder, missed the cut to the final.
Rank Name Score 1 Kai Harada 4T4z 7 62 Jongwon Chon 3T4z 9 10 3 Gregor Vezonik 3T4z 9 17 4 Keita Watabe 2T4z 6 10 5 Kokoro Fujii 2T2z 5 4 6 Nathan Phillips 1T2z 5 6
Combined
In the Combined competition the six most successful athletes of the previous competitions competed against each other in Speed, Bouldering and Lead. The athletes were selected by multiplying each athletes rank from the three individual competitions. The six climbers with the lowest scores determined by this method were invited to compete in the Combined final. In the final itself the athletes were again ranked by multiplying their rank in the Speed, Bouldering and Lead portion with a lower score leading to a better Combined rank.
The women's and men's combined final were both held at the Olympiaworld, the women's on 15 September and the men's on 16 September.
Women
Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead 1 Janja Garnbret 5.00 5 1 (4T4z 7 7) 1 (Top)2 Sol Sa 12.00 1 2 (2T4z 9 18) 6 (23+) 3 Jessica Pilz 24.00 2 6 (1T2z 2 7) 2 (Top) 4 Akiyo Noguchi 54.00 6 3 (2T2z 6 6) 3 (31+) 5 Miho Nonaka 64.00 4 4 (2T2z 10 8) 4 (26+) 6 Petra Klingler 75.00 3 5 (2T2z 12 12) 5 (26+)
Men
Rank Name Score Speed Bouldering Lead 1 Jakob Schubert 4.00 2 1 (4T4z 8 4) 2 (37+)2 Adam Ondra 10.00 5 2 (4T4z 11 6) 1 (42+) 3 Jan Hojer 24.00 1 4 (3T4z 8 6) 6 (26+) 4 Kai Harada 60.00 4 5 (3T3z 7 4) 3 (34+) 5 Tomoa Narasaki 72.00 6 3 (3T4z 6 5) 4 (34) 6 Kokoro Fujii 90.00 3 6 (2T4z 2 5) 5 (30+)
References
External links
IFSC: IFSC Climbing World Championship (results)