The Wooleybah Sawmill and Settlement is a heritage-listed former small settlement and sawmill at Old Wooleybah Road, Kenebri, Warrumbungle Shire, New South Wales, Australia. It was built from 1935 by the Underwood family. It is also known as Wooleybah Dead Man's Waterhole. The property is owned by Forestry Commission of NSW (formerly State Forests of NSW), an agency of the Government of New South Wales. It was added to the New South Wales State Heritage Register on 17 December 2010.
History Pre-European contact Before Europeans arrived the Pilliga forest was predominately "open forest", comprising five or six large trees for each hectare of grassland. Traditional Aboriginal "fire-stick farming" practices over thousands of years maintained most of the Pilliga region as grassland and modified the natural composition and form of the forest. The understorey was managed by this process and as a result would have appeared different to the scrub it is now. The region which includes present-day Gwabegar, large areas of the Pilliga and bounded by the junction of the Namoi and Barwon Rivers in the west, south-west near Coonabarabran and east to Tamworth and Inverell is the land of the Gamilaroi people. After the arrival of Europeans Aboriginal people continued to live and work in the Pilliga and to maintain a traditional relationship with the land despite being actively discouraged from doing so by the new settlers. This relationship continues today.Lucas, Damien (2000)Oral History (2010)
Nineteenth-century settlement and early grazing Following John Oxley's exploratory expedition to the north-western plains in 1818, the first non-Aboriginal settlers began to arrive in the 1830s.van Kempen (1997) A Scotsman called Andrew Brown established an outstation on the banks of the Baradine Creek in the late 1830s, and in the 1860s the town of Baradine was established.Curby, Humphreys, & Planning NSW (2002) Settlers introduced European grazing stock which eventually displaced much of the native fauna and led to the cessation of the Aboriginal fire practices.
Regeneration of the pine forest The new settlers found the conditions inhospitable and unsuitable for intensive grazing. The decline in traditional Aboriginal fire controls after the 1830s, a severe drought in the 1870s which forced many settlers off their land, followed by heavy rain in early 1880s and the arrival of rabbits to the region in the late 1880s were all factors that disturbed the pre-contact composition of the Pilliga forests and led to the creation of the forests as we now know them: primarily regenerated ironbark and white cypress pine forests. By the 1880s the Pilliga Forest had been transformed into dense scrub made up of thousands of young trees in areas which had, as little as ten years earlier, been open enough to run sheep.
Management of the Pilliga as a timber resource Following the failure of early non-Aboriginal grazing attempts the area was deemed more suitable for timber production than for settlement. The timber potential of the Pilliga forests was recognised when the first Forest Reserve was declared in 1876, and by the end of the 1870s a timber industry had developed. Further reserves were dedicated in 1877 and 1878. The railway line to Narrabri was constructed in 1882 and the Pilliga was initially logged for its ironbark needed for railway sleepers. Logs were taken by bullock wagon to the rail head at Narrabri. In the late 1890s deliberate "thinning" or harvesting of the cypress pine forests began. The thinning opened up the area around the larger trees which would then take on a new growth spurt, even after laying dormant for years. Following the 1908 Royal Commission of Enquiry into Forests, the NSW Forestry Commission was created by the 1909 Forestry Act. This began the deliberate government management for timber production of what was recognised as a young forest, compared to the older, heavily depleted coastal forests. Despite the introduction of the 1909 Forestry Act there was a conflict between the Lands Department that wanted to clear land and the Forestry Commission who wanted land reserved for State forest. In 1916 the Forestry Act was changed to allow dedication of State forests and on 2 March 1917 the area known as the Pilliga West State Forest No 267 was dedicated.
Aboriginal people and the Pilliga Forest Oral history projects undertaken with Aboriginal people in recent years show that the Pilliga forests are the location of social, economic and spiritual activities in the traditional, historic and current periods. Forests are particularly valued as locations in which skills, knowledge and traditions can be handed down. The decline of forested areas has increased the cultural value placed on those that remain.Brigalow Aboriginal Heritage Assessment Aboriginal people played a significant role in the forestry industry in NSW particularly in the Pilliga. Aboriginal communities have been a constant source of labour and knowledge in the economic life of the region and have had a central, though largely unacknowledged, role in its economic development. Working in the forestry industry not only provided employment but was a means for Aboriginal people to maintain contact with the land they valued. From the contact period up until the 1950s, Aboriginal people continued to camp, travel, and live in the forest when timber cutting. This allowed traditional practices, knowledge and activities to be continued. The forest had a diversity of plant and animal life that provided a source of food and medicine and supplemented rations. Hunting and gathering was an enjoyable activity which kept stories and knowledge alive. The forest was also a place of refuge where families could live without fear of surveillance and in some instances provided escape from the authorities who sought to remove Aboriginal children from their families. Aboriginal people moved through the Pilliga according to complex patterns of movement centred around kinship ties and frequently facilitated through work patterns. These patterns of movement are understood to be the continuation of traditional patterns into the historical period and through to the current day.
Establishment of the sawmill at Wooleybah Controlled thinning of the Pilliga forest continued through the Great Depression and the late 1930s using unemployed relief work. Such labour also contributed to the forest infrastructure, providing fences, water bores, roads, fire look-out towers and a telephone line. On 29 September 1937 17 forests comprising a total of in the Pilliga were consolidated to create the Pilliga National Forest No 7. Following the First World War an attempt was made to settle farmers in the Pilliga. The Commonwealth Government required the opening of all available Crown lands within a distance of from the railway route in the interests of returned soldiers. A railway line had been proposed between Coonabarabran and Burren Junction in 1913 which passed through the Pilliga. The railway reached Coonabarabran in 1917 and in anticipation of its extension to Gwabegar, 72 homestead farms near present-day Gwabegar and Kenebri were created in December 1919. The settlement failed and most returned soldiers walked off their land. The railway line didn't reach Gwabegar until September 1923. While the attempted settlement of returned soldiers failed, the opening of the railway line to Gwabegar boosted the accessibility of the area for timber cutting, and a number of small, independent milling operations were set up in the forest.
In January 1935 the NSW Forestry Commission issued a Occupation Permit to the Underwood family at Wooleybah. The Underwood family had already operated two sawmills in the Euligal State Forest, near Narrabri (including one at Rocky Creek) in the 1920s, and in the early 1930s moved their milling operation to Wooleybah. They brought with them milling equipment, including an English steam engine to power the mill which had previously been used in tin mines at Inverell.Underwood, Tom (November 2002) A small forest sawmilling community developed around the mill. At this time small sawmills were located in the bush so that timber could be milled near where it was logged because it was easier to transport milled timber than large logs. During the Second World War there were 14 cypress pine sawmills in the Pilliga, many of which operated as "portable" sawmills, opening and closing according to the location of the timber and relocating machinery as needed. For the life of the mill the work force was composed of 50% Aboriginal workers and 50% non-Aboriginal workers. The majority of workers and their families lived at the mill in small timber houses on the fringes of the clearing. The time spent at Wooleybah is remembered with fondness by those surviving today who have an association with the place. Robyn Rutley remembers going to Wooleybah when she was a child in the 1950s. "It was like a village. The Underwoods treated their workers like a family. They took them under their wing." "It was a comforting place." Patricia Madden (née Kinchela) remembers Wooleybah from when she lived there as a young woman in the 1960s. She describes it as a "good place to work, there were never any fights, everyone wanted to be there." Mervin Donald (Don) Sutherland visited his uncles at Wooleybah when he was a child. His uncles' families lived in houses at Wooleybah. Don, Pat and Robyn all remember playing in the forest as children. They describe the freedom they felt and the games building "bush humpies" and collecting bush tucker such as geebungs, five corners and quandongs. They also describe the difficulties faced by their parents and themselves in the community outside the Wooleybah and forest community. These difficulties centred around discriminatory practices such as segregation, difficulties in finding work and feeding their families and discrimination at school. These social problems were not experienced at Wooleybah where everyone was treated equally and there was a friendly happy atmosphere. The work force was united by a benevolent management and the need for team work in what was a dangerous and highly skilled industry. Since the 1920s cypress pine has been a major forest product in NSW and used in the construction of timber-frame housing. The white cypress pine logged and milled at Wooleybah has been used primarily for domestic timber flooring.
The Underwoods continue to live at Wooleybah occupying one house whilst a retired mill worker lies in what is known as the Forester's house. One of the residences was at one time the schoolteacher's residence, and prior to that the Forestry foreman's residence where, Walter Cornwell, the first forest foreman resided. According to Curby and Humphreys, this is not the standard Forestry Commission foreman's house. This suggests that it may have already been on the site before the Forestry Commission was established in 1909. Before her marriage, Tom Underwood's mother Mary and her mother used to travel through Wooleybah on their way to Coonamble, and she recalled a house there in the early years of the twentieth century. The water tank next to the house continues to be the property of the Forestry Commission.Underwood, Tom (January 2003)
Wooleybah School The original school building was "across the road", and provided tuition for about 9-12 children. In 1937 when the numbers of children of mill workers and surrounding families reached 20, an application for a provisional school was made. The NSW Department of Education approved the application at the end of 1937 and in September 1941 an Education Dept school building no longer needed at Talama was moved to Wooleybah.
Further forest regeneration (1950s)