Muriel Sarkany (born August 5, 1974) is a Belgian professional rock climber who specialized in competition lead climbing where she is known for winning five Climbing World Cups. She also specialized in outdoor sport climbing and is considered the fourth-ever female climber in history to redpoint a -graded route, which was PuntX, in Gorges du Loup, in France.

Climbing career

Competition climbing

Sarkany started climbing at the age of 17 and at the age of 18 started participating in international lead climbing competitions. She became Youth World Champion in Basel in 1992.

She won the silver medal three times for lead climbing at the World Championships (1997, 1999, and 2001), and the gold medal in 2003.

Sarkany was the 1998 European Lead Champion and won the bronze medal at the 2002 European Lead Championships.

After a break from competition climbing in 2005 and 2006, she returned in 2007 to win the silver medal at the World Championships in Avilles, and the bronze medal at the World Cup that year.

She won the Lead Climbing World Cup 5 times, in 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002, and 2003.

She retired in 2010, and as of 2022, still holds the record for the most Lead World Cup gold medals (male or female).

Rock climbing

After retiring from competition climbing, Sarkany devoted herself to outdoor rock climbing. In November 2013, at the age of 39, she became only the fourth woman in history to climb a graded route when she ascended PuntX in the Gorges du Loup, France.

In 2016, at 43 years old, Sarkany ascended Era Vella in Margalef in Spain, becoming the first woman aged over 40 to climb a graded route.

Rankings

World Championships Lead Climbing Early on, she won a gold medal in the junior category. In the adult difficulty, after three silver medals at the 1997, 1999, and 2001 UIAA Climbing World Championships, Muriel Sarkany became the 2003 World Climbing Champion and is a finalist in the 2007 IFSC Climbing World Championships.

Climbing World Cup Source:

Muriel won 31 podiums at the World Cup of Difficulty. Winner of the difficulty world cup for the years 1997, 1999, 2001, 2002 and 2003. Silver medal for the years 1995, 1998, 2000 and 2004. Bronze medal in 2007. Discipline 1993 1994 1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Lead 24 9 5 7 1 2 1 2 1 1 1 2 5 15 3 12 9 20

Climbing World Championships Source: Discipline 1993 1995 1997 1999 2001 2003 2005 2007 2009 Lead 17 4 2 2 2 1 10 2 24

Climbing European Championships Source: Discipline 1996 1998 2000 2002 2006 2008 2010 Lead 5 1 5 3 12 13 18 Bouldering - - - - - 12 -

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead

Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 1995 2 2 1996 1 1 1997 3 1 4 1998 1 2 3 1999 1 2 1 4 2000 1 1 2 4 2001 2 3 5 2002 4 2 6 2003 5 1 1 7 2004 3 2 1 6 2006 1 1 2007 3 2 Total 21 20 6 47

Other tributes She is represented on the painting in Namur, in Belgium.

Rock climbing Redpointed routes : Era Vella - Margalef (ESP) - September 2017 Punt-X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - November 21, 2013 - At the time, Sarkany became the 4th female climber in history to climb a 9a route.

: La Rubia - Villanueva del Rosario (Andalusia, ESP) - November 2016 Ultimate Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - 2012

: Ingravids Eskerps - Santa Linya (ESP) - March 8, 2012 Rollito Sharma Extension - Santa Linya - February 4, 2012 Last soul sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 30, 2011 Quoussaï les maux de la fin - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - September 13, 2011 Hot chili X - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 28, 2011 Drop City - Antalya (TUR) - April 5, 2008

: Hot Chilli Beans Volcano - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - August 7, 2011 Soul Sacrifice - Gorges du Loup (FRA) - July 25, 2011 Le mur des cyclopes - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux(FRA)- March 10, 2011 Collection automne hiver - Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux (FRA) - October 17, 2010 Trio Ternura - Santa Linya (ESP) - May 31, 2010 Rolito Sharma - Santa Linya (ESP) - December 10, 2009 Philippe cuisinière - Rodellar (ESP) - October 3, 2009 El chorreras - Rodellar (ESP) - September 29, 2009 Mortal combat - Castillon (FRA) - December 10, 2003 Skyline - Bürs (AUT) - July 18, 2003

See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals

References

External links