Jan Hojer (born February 9, 1992) is a German professional rock climber specializing in sport climbing, bouldering, and competition climbing. He is known for winning one World Cup and two European Championships in competition bouldering. In May 2010, he climbed Action Directe, one of the most difficult sport climbing routes in the world. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several boulder problems.
Climbing career
Competition climbing Hojer started participating in German Lead climbing youth competitions in 2004, at the age of 10. From 2008 to 2010 he participated in the Lead Climbing World Cup. Since his performances in lead climbing were never outstanding, he quit competing in that discipline in 2011 and started competing in bouldering. Notable results started coming next year, when he ranked fifth in the Climbing World Championships. He won the seasonal title of the Bouldering Climbing World Cup in 2014 and finished second in 2015.
In 2015 and 2017 he won the Climbing European Championships in Bouldering. Also in 2017, he won the silver medal at the Bouldering World Games in Wrocław, Poland.
Hojer has won national championships in all climbing disciplines. He won the lead in 2008, 2017, and 2019. In bouldering he won in 2011, 2014, 2015, and 2016, finished second in 2017, and has not competed since. Hojer won the first German National Championship in the combined format in 2018, and in 2019 he won the only discipline that he hadn't won yet, speed.
In 2019 Hojer qualified for the 2020 Summer Olympics through his performance at the IFSC Combined Qualifier event in Toulouse. Hojer finished 12th out of 20 at the Tokyo Olympics.
Rock climbing
He also obtained outstanding results in outdoor climbing. In May 2010, he redpointed the sport climbing route, Action Directe. From 2013 to 2015, he sent several outdoor bouldering problems at the grade of . In 2018, he made the third ascent of the deep-water soloing route, Es Pontàs at .
Results Climbing World Cup Discipline 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Lead 22 22 43 - - - - 33 - 17 Bouldering - - - 33 20 8 1 2 9 7 Speed - - - - - - - - - 29 Combined - - - - - - - 5 - 7
Climbing World Championships Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 Lead 30 - - 30 - 29 Bouldering 39 46 5 3 27 9 Speed - - - 30 - 33 Combined - - - 2 - 3
Climbing European Championships Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017 Lead 41 - - 21 Bouldering - 20 1 1 Speed - - - 23 Combined - - - 1
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Bouldering Season Gold Silver Bronze Total2012 1 12013 1 1 22014 3 2 52015 1 12016 1 12017 1 12018 02019 1 1 Total 6 4 2 12
Rock climbing Redpointed routes
: Es Pontàs - Mallorca (ESP) - October, 2018
Action Directe - Frankenjura (DEU)- May 22, 2010
: Pati noso - Siurana (ESP) - April 27, 2011 Bah Bah Black Sheep - Céüse (FRA) - July 22, 2010
Boulder problems : Quoi de Neuf - Fontainebleau (FRA) - November 21, 2017Quoi de Neuf 8c jan hojer From Dirt Grows the Flowers - Chironico (CHE) - March 8, 2015 The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (CHE) - April 11, 2014Hojer sends The Story of Two Worlds V15 Le Marathon de Boissy - Fontainebleau (FRA) - March 2014 - First ascent.Le Marathon de Boissy 8c Boissy aux Cailles Trip Hop - Fontainebleau (FRA) - October 2013 The Big Island - Fontainebleau (FRA) - January 2013.Jan Hojer repeating The Big Island (V15) on ukclimbing.com, Incl. Video.
: Jour de Chasse - Fontainebleau (FRA) - December 2013 - First ascent. Hojer graded it a soft 8C, possibly because he did not use a heel hook that, according to some repeaters, makes it easier to climb.Comments about Jour de Chasse on 8a.nu Dreamtime - Cresciano (CHE) - February 18, 2013. Rated 8C by Hojer, who described it as "much harder than any 8B+ i've ever tried.."Hojer's boulders on 8a.nu
References
External links
Jan Hojer on digitalrock.de Hojer's ascents on 8a.nu