Sport climbing at the 2018 Summer Youth Olympics was held from 7 to 10 October. The competition took place at the Parque Urbano in Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires, Argentina. This marked the debut of the sport at the Youth Olympics.
Qualification
Each National Olympic Committee (NOC) could enter a maximum of 4 competitors, 2 per each gender event. As hosts, Argentina was given 2 quotas, 1 per each gender event provided that they participate at the Youth World Championships. A further 2 quotas, 1 in each gender could be allocated by the Tripartite Commission. The remaining 36 places shall be decided in two qualification phases; the 2017 Youth World Championship and five continental championships.
Shortly before the deadline for entries in September, The IOC informed the IFSC 1 additional female athlete and 1 additional male athlete were added to the quota for Sport Climbing, raising the number of qualified athletes to 21 female athletes and 21 male athletes.
To be eligible to participate at the Youth Olympics athletes needed to have been born between 1 January 2000 and 31 December 2001.
Although two athletes from the United States, Ashima Shiraishi and Brooke Raboutou, finished second and third at the Youth World Championship and were included on preliminary lists of qualified athletes, the United States Olympic Committee declined to allow them to participate, citing a fixed limit on the total number of athletes that it could send to all events, and a low prioritization of the climbing event based on the fact that USA Climbing had applied for recognition by the USOC but not yet received it. Similarly, Chinese female athlete Song Yi Ling qualified through the Youth World Championship but was not included on the final starting list of athletes for the Youth Olympics.
The qualified athletes were as follows:International Federation of Sport Climbing. (3 October 2018). Youth Olympic Games Preview: Sport Climbing's Game Changers [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2018/2018_IFSC_Official_Press_Release_YOG_Buenos_Aires_Preview.pdf
Boys
Event Location Date Total Places QualifiedHost Nation - - 0 1 2017 World Youth Championship Innsbruck 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 15 2017 Asian Youth Championship Singapore 5–9 July 2017 1 2017 Oceania Youth Championship Nouméa 13–15 October 2017 1 2017 Pan American Youth Championship Montreal 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 2 2017 European Youth Championship Saint-Étienne 25–26 November 2017 1 2017 African Youth Championship Johannesburg 8 December 2017 1 TOTAL 21
Girls
Event Location Date Total Places QualifiedHost Nation - - 1 2017 World Youth Championship Innsbruck 30 Aug–10 Sept 2017 14 2017 Asian Youth Championship Singapore 5–9 July 2017 1 2017 Oceania Youth Championship Nouméa 13–15 October 2017 1 2017 Pan American Youth Championship Montreal 30 Oct–5 Nov 2017 2 2017 European Youth Championship Saint-Étienne 25–26 November 2017 1 2017 African Youth Championship Johannesburg 8 December 2017 1 TOTAL 21
Schedule
The competition followed the Olympic format, with each athlete competing in Speed, Bouldering and then Lead. The ranking was calculated by multiplying the placing in the individual events, with a lower combined score resulting in a better ranking. The top 6 ranked athletes progressed to the final.International Federation of Sport Climbing. (9 February 2017). Sport Climbing Olympic Format [Press Release]. http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/media-centre/2017/2017_IFSC_Plenary_Assembly_Quebec_City_Olympic_Format.pdf
QQualifiersFFinal Event ↓ / Date → Sun 7 Mon 8 Tue 9 Wed 10 Girls' Combined Q F Boys' Combined Q F
Medal summary
Medal table
Events Boys' combined Girls' combined
References
External links Official Results Book – Climbing