Sachi Amma (born September 23, 1989) is a Japanese professional rock climber and sport climber. He won the IFSC Climbing World Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013.
Biography In 2006 he started competing at the World Cup, in the Lead climbing discipline, and won the Cup twice, in 2012 and 2013. In 2009, 2010 and 2012 he also competed, occasionally, in the Bouldering discipline, with less encouraging results.
He mainly climbs indoor, but he also proved to be one of the strongest rock climbers in the world, by redpointing three routes graded : Papichulo (Oliana), Pachamama (Oliana), and La Rambla (Siurana).
He has since redpointed one additional : Realization (Céüse) and two routes graded : Soul Mate (Gozen Iwa) and Fight or Flight (Oliana), the former becoming Japan's hardest sport climb.
Rankings Climbing World Cup 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Lead 35 18 12 5 3 5 3 1 1 7 30 Bouldering - - - - 50 79 - 21 26 - - Combined - - - - 2 3 - 3 3 - -
Climbing World Championships 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 Lead 21 4 10 7 3
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 2008 1 1 2 2009 2 1 3 2010 1 1 2011 4 3 7 2012 2 2 2 6 2013 3 2 1 6 2014 2 1 1 4 Total 7 12 10 29
Rock climbing Redpointed routes : Sleeping Lion – Siurana (ESP) – March 15, 2026 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2023 Soul Mate – Gozen Iwa (JPN) – March 2018 – First ascent. Described as Japan's hardest route and first 9b. Fight or Flight – Oliana (ESP) – February 2015 – First ascent by Chris Sharma.
: Realization – Céüse (FRA) – August 6, 2014 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001 La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – November 29, 2012 – First ascent by Ramón Julián Puigblanqué, 2003 Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – December 17, 2011 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009 Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – December 24, 2010 – First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2008
: Era Vella – Margalef (ESP) – December 2, 2012 Kinematix – Gorges du Loup (FRA) – August 2009 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2001
See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
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