Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he competes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade , onsighted routes of , and solved boulder problems at grade . In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route.
Climbing career
Competition climbing In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships. In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
Rock climbing On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of .
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, Spain), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of , in Flatanger Municipality, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie , in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.
On February 2, 2023, made the FA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of .
Rankings Climbing World Cup Discipline 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 Lead 21 24 10 10 9 9 4 2 2 5 1 Bouldering 65 83 30 41 Speed 17 30 38 Combined 10 10 4 9
Climbing World Championships YouthWY Championships 2011, not included in Ghisolfi's IFSC profile Discipline 2008Youth B 2009Youth A 2010Youth A 2011Juniors 2012Juniors Lead 5 15 3 3 13 Speed 5 6 5 - 17
Adult Discipline 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 Lead 27 16 10 7 22 Bouldering 25 16 Speed 30 33
Climbing European Championships Youth Discipline 2012Juniors Lead 3
Adult Discipline 2010 2013 2015 2017 Lead 37 16 7 10 Bouldering 37 35 35 - Speed 18 32 26 -
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 2012 1 1 2013 0 2014 1 1 2015 0 2016 1 1 2 2017 1 1 1 3 2018 2 2 4 2019 1 1 2020 0 2021 1 2 3 Total 6 6 3 15
Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup Lead Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total2011 Juniors 1 3 42012 Juniors 1 1Total 1 1 3 5
Speed Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total2011 Juniors 2 2Total 0 0 2 2
Rock climbing Redpointed routes
: Perfecto Mundo - Margalef (ESP) - December 7, 2018 - First repeat, first ascent was by Alex Megos, 2018 - Flatanger (NOR) - September 29, 2020 - First repeat, first ascent was by Adam Ondra, 2012 Bibliographie - Céüse (FRA) - August 24, 2021 - First repeat, first ascent was by Alex Megos, 2020. Originally 9c, Ghisolfi proposed 9b+ instead. Excalibur - Arco (ITA) - February 5, 2023 - First ascent.
: Move Hard - Flatanger (NOR) - September 16, 2022 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017 L'Arenauta - Sperlonga (ITA) - February 10, 2022 - First ascent. The Lonely Mountain - Arco (ITA) - December 17, 2021 - First Ascent. Erebor - Arco (ITA) - January 11, 2021 - First Ascent. Originally graded 9b/+, downgraded by Adam Ondra. La Capella - Siurana (ESP) - January 12, 2018 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2011 One Slap - Arco (ITA) - November 22, 2017 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2017 First Round, First Minute - Margalef (ESP) - January 30, 2017 Lapsus - Andonno (ITA) - November 2, 2015 - First ascent
: La Rambla - Siurana (ESP) - March 20, 2017 First Ley - Margalef (ESP) - January 2017 Ultimatum - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 19, 2016 Jungle Boogie - Céüse (FRA) - October 2, 2016 Realization - Céüse (FRA) - June 21, 2015 - First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2001 Demencia senil - Margalef (ESP) - March 14, 2015 - First ascent by Chris Sharma, 2009 La moustache qui fàche - Entraygues (FRA) - August 23, 2014
: Thunder Ribes - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - December 16, 2016 - Combination of the routes Reini's Vibes, Ultima Pietra, and Stonehenge. L'Attimo - Covolo (ITA) - October 11, 2015 - First ascent by Silvio Reffo, 2012 Underground - Massone (Arco, (ITA)) - July 5, 2014 - First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998 Biologico - Narango (Arco, (ITA)) - June 8, 2014 - First ascent by Adam Ondra, 2012 TCT - Gravere (ITA) - May 31, 2014 - First ascent Grandi Gesti - Grotta dell'Arenauta (Sperlonga, ITA) - December 30, 2013 - First ascent by Gianluca Daniele, 2009 Ground Zero - Tetto di Sarre (ITA) - June 9, 2013 - First ascent by Alberto Gnerro, 2002
Onsighted routes : Fish Eye - Oliana (ESP) - January 8, 2017
: Falconeti - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013 L-mens - Montsant (ESP) - January 2013
Boulder problems : Giola - Varazze (ITA) - February 2026
: 4-Low - Val Bavona (SUI) - March 2026 The Story of Two Worlds - Cresciano (SUI) - March 2026 Dreamtime - Cresciano (SUI) - March 2026 Flow State - Val Daone (ITA) - September 2025 Adularia - Gotthard Pass (SUI) - August 2025 Anam cara low - Silvretta Alps (AUT) - June 2025 Hazel Grace sit - Gotthard Pass(SUI) - August 2025
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.
See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links