Jakob Schubert (born 31 December 1990) is an Austrian professional rock climber, specializing in competition climbing (lead and boulder), sport climbing, and bouldering. He is a four-time World Champion (2012, 2018, 2021, 2023) and three-time World Cup winner (2011, 2014, 2018) in lead climbing. He is a two-time Olympic bronze medalist in the combined event (2020 and 2024).

As of 2023, Schubert had won the most men's IFSC gold medals of any male competition climber in history.

In addition to competition climbing, Schubert was the first climber in the world to have both redpointed a graded sport climbing route and climbed a graded bouldering problem.

Climbing career

Competition climbing Schubert started competition climbing in 2003 when he was twelve years old. In 2004, he participated in the European Youth Cup and World Youth Championships. Since 2007, he has regularly participated in World Cup competitions for lead climbing and bouldering.

In 2011, he won the Lead World Cup and the silver medal at the Lead World Championships in Arco. The World Cup was outstandingly obtained by winning seven consecutive competitions in that season. Previously, no climber was ever able to win as many World Cup competitions in a single season (in 2002, Alexandre Chabot had won six).

In 2012, he won the Lead Climbing World Championships in Paris.

In 2014, he won the Lead World Cup for the second time.

In 2018, when he was 27 years old, he became World Champion again, in his own birthplace and hometown, Innsbruck. He earned the title by reaching in the final event the same score as Adam Ondra (36+), but a higher score in the semifinal, where he ranked second after Domen Škofic. A few days later, in the same competition, he also conquered the Combined title by ranking second in Speed, first in Bouldering, and second in Lead. In the same year, he was awarded his third World Cup.

Schubert's performance at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships qualified him for a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics in Tokyo, where he won the bronze medal in the combined event.

Schubert won the lead event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships, becoming the oldest world champion in the sport. He followed that up by winning the combined event, which qualified him to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris.

He won a second consecutive bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.

Schubert competed two IFSC World Cups in 2025 and, as of August 2026, three World Climbing Series in 2026, all in Lead.

Rock climbing In 2023, Schubert became the only person in the world to have climbed the top grade in both bouldering and sport climbing.

Rankings

Climbing World Cup Discipline 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 2021 2022 2023 2024 2025 Lead 26 7 4 2 1 3 2 1 3 2 6 1 14 16 33 10 20 29 Bouldering - - 60 65 19 3 2 - 25 23 10 9 10 16 12 36 11 - Speed - - - - - 43 59 - 62 - - 51 - - - - - - Combined - - 4 2 1 1 1 - 4 2 6 1 3 - - - - -

Climbing World Championships Youth Discipline 2004Youth B 2005Youth B 2006Youth A 2007Youth A 2008Juniors 2009Juniors Lead 33 2 2 1 1 1

Adult Discipline 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 2018 2019 2021 2023 2025 Lead 26 2 1 5 2 1 3 1 1 7 Bouldering - - - - - 10 2 27 12 - Speed - - - - - 110 59 - - - Combined - - - - - 1 2 - 1 -

Climbing European Championships Discipline 2008 2010 2013 2015 2017 Lead 6 3 7 6 3 Bouldering - - 3 4 - Speed - - 35 27 31

Number of medals in the Climbing European Youth Cup Lead Season Category Gold Silver Bronze Total2004 Youth B 1 12005 Youth B 1 12006 Youth A 3 1 1 5Total 3 1 3 7

Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup Lead Season Gold Silver Bronze Total2008 1 12009 1 1 22010 1 2 1 42011 7 1 1 92012 1 3 1 52013 2 2 1 52014 2 1 2 52015 2 2 42016 2 3 52017 2 1 32018 2 3 52019112020112021112023112202411202622 Total 21 17 18 56

Bouldering Season Gold Silver Bronze Total2011 1 12012 1 1 22013 1 1 1 32018 1 12019 1 1 2202111202411 Total 3 2 6 11

Number of medals in the Olympics

Combined Summer Olympics Gold Silver Bronze Total202011202411 Total 0 0 2 2

Notable ascents

Redpointed routes

B.I.G. – Flatanger (Norway) – 20 September 2023 – First ascent and third-ever proposed at 9c.

Perfecto Mundo – Margalef (ESP) – 9 November 2019 – Third ascent (first by Alexander Megos).

The Flame - Austria (AUT) – 2023 – First ascent Erebor – Arco (ITA) – 2022 – Repeat ascent of Stefano Ghisolfi's route. King Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 2021 – Third ascent of William Bosi's route. Neanderthal – Santa Linya (ESP) – 28 December 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma. El Bon Combat – Cova de I'Ocell (ESP) – 1 December 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma. Stoking the Fire – Santa Linya (ESP) – 5 January 2018 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2013). La Planta da Shiva – Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) – 4 January 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra. Fight or flight – Oliana () – 31 December 2014 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2011).

Qui – Tyrol (AUT) – 2 October 2023 Clash of the Titans – Tyrol (AUT) – 3 October 2022 La Furia de Jabali – Siurana (ESP) – 15 December 2021 La Capella – Siurana (ESP) – 11 December 2021 Es Pontàs – Mallorca (ESP) – October 2021 – Fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's 2006 route. Catxasa – Santa Linya (ESP) – 9 January 2018 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma Seleccio Anal – Oliana (ESP) – 8 January 2017 Pachamama – Oliana (ESP) – 2 January 2017 – Third ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2009) Joe Mama – Oliana (ESP) – 27 December 2016 – Second ascent after Chris Sharma Kangroo Limb – Flatanger (NOR) – 29 May 2016 – Second ascent after Adam Ondra Companion of Change – Zillertal (AUT) – 18 November 2015 – First ascent Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – 27 April 2011 – Sixth ascent (first by Chris Sharma, 2008)

Alasha – Port de Sóller (ESP) – 10 October 2021 – Second ascent Weiße Rose – Schleierfall (AUT) – 30 April 2010 – Third ascent Kein Licht Kein Schatten – Ötztal () – 8 November 2016 – First ascent Kraftplatzl – Berglsteiner See (AUT) – 15 October 2016 – Second Ascent after David Lama Direct open your mind – Santa Linya (ESP) – 3 January 2013 Fuck the System – Santa Linya (ESP)- 2 January 2013 Analogica Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 2 January 2013 Seleccio Natural – Santa Linya (ESP) – 28 December 2012 Ciudad de Dios – Santa Linya (ESP) – 24 December 2012 Martin Krpan – Misja Pec () – 21 November 2011 Hades – Nassereith, Götterwand (AUT) – 30 May 2010 – First ascent by Andreas Bindhammer, 2008 Underground – Massone, Arco (ITA) – 30 March 2010 – First ascent by Manfred Stuffer, 1998

Onsighted routes : Valkyries – Flatanger (NOR) – September 2023 Nordic Flower – Flatanger (NOR) – May 2016 Aitzol – Margalef (ESP) – 23 April 2011

Boulder problems

Shaolin – Red Rock Canyon (USA) – February 2026 Mount Doom – Maltatal (AUT) – 17 November 2025 Alphane – Chironico (CHE) – 21 December 2023

Ephyra – Chironico (CHE) – February 2026 Vecchio Leone SDS – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025 The Story of Three Worlds – Cresciano (CHE) – 12 January 2025 Return of the Dreamtime – Cresciano (CHE) – 28 December 2024

Emotional Landscapes – Maltatal (AUT) – 5 March 2026 The Nest – Red Rock Canyon (USA) – January 2026 The Lion's Share – Brione (CHE) – 12 January 2025 Primitivo – Ticino (CHE) – 16 March 2021 La Force Tranquille Direct – Magic Wood (CHE) – 14 November 2020 – First Ascent Sierra Madre – Zillertal (AUT) – 20 November 2018

Mithril Sit – Cresciano (CHE) – 11 January 2026 The Innocent Man – Brione (CHE) – December 2025 Big Paw – Chironico (CHE) – 27 December 2024 Anam Cara – Silvapark (AUT) – 23 August 2021 – flashed Ill Thrill – Magic Wood (CHE) – 28 July 2020 The Never Ending Story – Magic Wood (CHE) – June 2020 – flashed Off the Wagon - Val Bavona (CHE) 10 January 2020 Witness the fitness – Cova de Ocell (ESP) – 13 January 2019 – flashed Hide and Sick – Maltatal (AUT) – 25 March 2018

See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals

References

External links