Margo Hayes (born February 11, 1998) is an American professional rock climber from Boulder, Colorado. In 2016, she won both the competition bouldering and the competition lead climbing events at the IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China). In 2017, she became the first woman in history to climb a graded route, and in 2019, became the first woman in climbing history to complete the coveted "9a+ Trilogy" of Realization, La Rambla, and Papichulo.
Early life Originally a gymnast who trained at CATS Gymnastics in Boulder, Hayes began climbing at age 10. She joined Team ABC, a renowned youth climbing program in Boulder, where she was coached by Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou. Hayes' grandfather, Dr. James Morrissey, led the first successful climb of the Kangshung Face on Mt. Everest and her father spent time climbing in Yosemite Valley.
Climbing career
Competition climbing As part of the US National Team, Hayes has competed in all three disciplines (lead climbing, speed climbing, and bouldering) of the International Federation of Sport Climbing competitions. In 2015, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Arco, Italy Hayes won silver both in bouldering and lead, behind Janja Garnbret.
In 2016, at the IFSC World Youth Championships in Guangzhou (China), she competed in the Juniors category, winning both the bouldering and lead events, placing 15th in speed, and placing first in the overall standings.
Hayes was one of four women to earn a spot on the 2019 U.S. Overall National Team as a first step to qualifying for the 2020 Olympics climbing competition.
Sport climbing
In 2016, Hayes won a in the Sport Climbing category from Climbing Magazine for successfully climbing 14 routes graded 5.14.
On February 26, 2017, Hayes became the first-ever woman in history to climb a graded route when she ascended La Rambla, in Siurana, Spain). On September 24, 2017, she also completed the third-ever female ascent of a when she ascended Realization/Biographie, in Céüse, in France. In March 2019, Hayes completed her third , climbing Papichulo at Oliana, Spain, and thus completing the trilogy of the "benchmark" and most notable graded routes.
Personal life In 2016 she won a prize in a scholastic art show.
On the 21st of March 2024, she released her first single, 'Karma', produced by Luis Calderon.
Rankings Source:
2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Lead - Silver 2015 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Youth A Boulder - Silver 2015 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Lead - Gold 2016 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold 2016 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Gold 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Lead - Silver 2017 - IFSC Pan American Youth Championships Female Junior Boulder - Gold 2017 - USA Climbing Sport & Speed Climbing Champions - Silver 2017 - IFSC Youth World Championships Female Junior Combined - Bronze 2018 - IFSC Climbing World Championships Female Boulder - 10th 2019 - USA Climbing Open Bouldering Championships - Bronze
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
Papichulo – Oliana (ESP) – March 24, 2019 – First female ascent. Hayes became the first female to complete the "9a+ trilogy". Realization/Biographie – Céüse (FRA) – September 24, 2017 – First female ascent of one of the famous routes in sport climbing. La Rambla – Siurana (ESP) – February 26, 2017 – First-ever female ascent in history of a consensus climb.Margo Hayes Sends La Rambla (5.15a)! on rockandice.comHistorique! Margo Hayes, 18 ans, enchaîne « La Rambla », 9a+! on planetgrimpe.com
Bad Girls Club – Wicked Cave (Rifle Mountain Park. (USA) – August 2016 – First female ascent.Margo Hayes, 18, Breaks the “Boys Club” of Bad Girls Club (5.14d) on rockandice.com
The Crew – Rifle Mountain Park (Colorado, (USA) – June 2016.Margo Hayes, 18, Sends The Crew (5.14c) in Rifle on rockandice.com
Filmography Break on Through - 2017 film directed by Matty Hong, documenting Hayes' ascent of La Rambla and Biographie, featured on Reel Rock 12.
See also Notable first free ascents
References
External links