Colonel M W H (Henry) Day, MA, CEng, MICE, Royal Engineers was a British Army Officer (retired 9 April 1997)London Gazette, Supplement No. 54735 14 April 1997. https://www.thegazette.co.uk/London/issue/54735/supplement/4467/data.pdf (accessed 29 December 2020) who made the first British ascent (second ever ascent) of Annapurna I. In addition to the first British ascent of Annapurna, he was an active member of the Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) and a member of the Alpine Club (UK) contributing to the Alpine Journal.Contributors, Alpine Journal 1988 pp. 337. NB: Alpine Journal articles referred to hereafter can be found through the Alpine Journal search at https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Browse_search.html (accessed 29/12/2020) He was an active climber in the Alps and took part in the first winter ascent of the Grands Charmoz with Rob Collister.Rob Collister, “Grands Charmoz in Winter”, Alpine Journal 1976 pp 64-68 He was member of the AMA Tirich Mir (1969) expedition, summiting the peak;Henry Day, “Tirich Mir 1969”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 79-86 the AMA Himachal Pradesh (1973) expedition;Jon Fleming, “The Army Mountaineering Association Himachal Praedesh Expedition 1973”, Alpine Journal 1974 pp. 21-27 the 1976 British and Nepalese Army Expedition to Everest.Major MWH Day, "Everest, 1976", Himalayan Journal 35 https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/35/9/everest-1976/ (Accessed 29 December 2020) He led a Royal Engineers expedition to Trisul II (1978)PJ Horniblow, “In the steps of Shipton”, Alpine Journal 1979 pp. 154-157. and in 1981 a British Army expedition to the Da Xue Shan mountains in Sichuan province, China attempting to climb Jiaz (6,540 m).Henry Day, “Da Xue Shan, Sichuan, China”, Alpine Journal 1982 pp. 117-120 In 1987 Henry Day led the climbers attempting to climb the virgin east face of Xixabangma (8,027 m),Luke Hughes, “Xixabangma 1987 – Expedition Jade Venture”, Alpine Journal 1983 pp. 63-70 in China, organised by the Scientific Exploration Society with a view to conducting scientific research en route. In 2008 he organised a climbing expedition to the Georgian Caucasus.Henry Day, “Climbing and Kalashnikovs, Part II”, Alpine Journal 2008 pp. 174 – 189

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