The Felt Hatters' and Trimmers' Unions of Great Britain was a general term for two closely related trade unions representing workers in the hat-making industry in the United Kingdom.
The Amalgamated Society of Journeymen Felt Hatters and Allied Workers (ASJFH) was founded in 1872. It brought together various local unions, to represent men working in the hat-making industry. Based in Denton, Greater Manchester, it gradually expanded its membership, first to Stockport, then to London, Atherstone, Nuneaton and St Albans.H. A. Silverman, Studies in Industrial Organization, pp.163, 167
One of the ASJFH's early campaigns was against the employment of women in the industry in the West Midlands. Having lost this dispute,Sallie Hellier Hogg, The Employment of Women in Great Britain, 1891-1921, p.118 in 1888 it formed the Amalgamated Felt Hat Trimmers, Woolformers and Allied Workers Union (AFHTW&AWF) to represent women working in the industry. Despite being registered as separate unions, the two operated from the same office and had the same general secretary, invariably a man. However, their funds were kept separately, and the women's union offered fewer benefits.The Industrial History of Britain, "Jolly Hatters and its connection with the trade union movement" The women's union campaigned for women's suffrage, and co-sponsored the 1906 United Manifesto with organisations including the Women's Social and Political Union.Elizabeth Crawford, The Women's Suffrage Movement: A Reference Guide, 1866-1928, p.731
From 1893, the organisations began producing union labels for members to place inside hats they had made.Paul Martin, The Trade Union Badge: Material Culture in Action, p.36 The unions undertook a major strike in 1907, in an attempt to prevent the employment of youths on certain machines.H. A. Silverman, Studies in Industrial Organization, p.167 The resolution of this led to an unusual position where the unions had a role in regulating apprenticeships in the industry,Report of an Enquiry Into Apprenticeship and Training for Skilled Occupations in Great Britain and Northern Ireland, 1925-1926, p.114 restricting their numbers to a maximum of one-fifth the number of journeymen in any workplace.H. A. Silverman, Studies in Industrial Organization, p.165
During World War II, the union was one of a handful of organisations specifically listed in the Nazi Black Book as dangerously Marxist.Leo McKinstry, Operation Sealion In 1939, the unions began admitting unskilled workers in the industry. By 1943, the men's union had a membership of 8,747, and the women's union had 2,833 members.H. A. Silverman, Studies in Industrial Organization, p.167 However, this proved a peak, and by 1980, memberships had fallen to 526 and 627 respectively.
In 1982 the unions merged into the National Union of Tailors and Garment Workers.Jürgen Hoffman, Marcus Kahmann and Jeremy Waddington, A Comparison of the Trade Union Merger Process in Britain and Germany, p.124
General Secretaries 1879: George Wilde 1895: Thomas Mallalieu 1935: Fred Worthington 1967: Harold Walker 1982:
Further reading J. H. Smith, The Hatters - The Felt Hatters and Trimmers Unions (1966)
References