The natural hair movement is a movement which aims to encourage people of sub-Saharan African descent to embrace their natural, kinky hair, especially in the workplace. It originated in the United States during the 1960s, and resurged in popularity in the 2000s.
Definition and features The movement is centered around Black people who wear kinky hair in its natural, coiled, or tight, curly state.
These individuals of African descent choose not to relax their hair, allowing it, instead, to grow in its natural texture. To relax one's hair means to use chemicals to straighten it. This can be done professionally, or through a kit purchased at a grocery store for home use. Kinky hairstyles can vary and may include the adoption of hair twists, braids or dreadlocks.Le Monde, Crépues et fières de l’être, 5 February 2015 Not all people that wear their hair naturally will choose to do without all (non-chemical) forms of straightening or styling. Additionally, for many members of the movement, "being natural" does not necessarily indicate a strict adherence to any particular type of product or styling regimen; nor is it exclusively tied to certain social or political beliefs.
The word nappy, historically used as a derogatory term to describe the hair of Black people, has been positively reappropriated by Afrodescendants. In Francophone countries, nappy is often used as a portmanteau of 'natural' and 'happy'. In the past, the word was subject to denigration, having origins that stretch back to the Atlantic slave trade. It is surmised that nappy may have originated as a pejorative reference to the frizzy texture of cotton picked by Black slaves.
History
In many early African societies, hairdressing historically served as a core cultural practice that extended beyond aesthetics. Hairstyles functioned as a form of social communication, following codes that signal ethnic identity, age, marital status and social rank. Scholars emphasize that Black hair has long been a site of creativity and cultural production that reflect shared histories.
However, during the Atlantic slave trade, the conditions of servitude did not allow black people to take care of their hair. Enslaved Africans had been stripped of the tools and autonomy necessary to maintain their practices. Under slavery, kinky hair was devalued and branded, with terms like "nappy" appearing as racialized insults.Maxine Leeds Craig, Ain't I a Beauty Queen?: Black Women, Beauty, and the Politics of Race , Oxford University Press, 2002Common Dreams NewsCenter, "Why 'Nappy' Is Offensive ", 12 April 2007 In many cases, their heads were shaved upon capture or arrival, symbolizing the loss of identity and connection to the motherland. This process was part of a broader system of cultural erasure that sought to suppress African identities. Following the American abolition of slavery in 1865, Black Americans began to navigate a society that was rooted in Eurocentric beauty standards. Hair straightening became widely popular as Black women used it to improve access to employment and social mobility. Tools such as the hot comb, and later Garrett A. Morgan's invention of a relaxer cream in 1909, were used to alter hair texture to conform to the dominate ideals of professionalism.Juliette Sméralda, Peau noire, cheveu crépu : l'histoire d'une aliénation , Jasor, 2004
In the 1960s, as racial segregation between blacks and whites reigned in the United States, there was a significant shift in the cultural and political meaning of Black Hair. During the Civil Rights and Black Power movement, natural hairstyles such as the Afro hairstyle, became symbols of resistance, pride and self-definition. The Afro hairstyle also became closely associated with the "Black is Beautiful" movement, which sought to redefine beauty standards and celebrate African Heritage. Figures such as Angela Davis, young human rights activist and member of the 1966 revolutionary movement Black Panthers, popularized the look, transforming it into a visible marker of political identity. It was adopted by multiple celebrities, such as Diana Ross and the Jackson 5 band members. Scholars describe this shift as part of a broader "politics of style," where hair and fashion functioned as a tool of activism that allowed African Americans to assert agency and challenge dominant norms. At the same time, these developments were shaped by broader processes of globalization and African Diaspora. Natural hairstyles became part of a transnational cultural movement, often referred to as "soul style," which circulated across national boundaries and expressed a shared sense of identity and resistance. Individuals across the African diaspora used natural hairstyles to align themselves with anti-colonial struggles, civil rights and broader efforts to challenge racial hierarchies. Historians argue hair became part of a shared cultural language through which people expressed both local identities and shared histories.
During the 1970s–1980s, popularized especially by some celebrities, the "Jheri curl," a newer technique to loosen tightly curled hair, became fashionable in the African American community; it can be seen in Michael Jackson's hair in the music video of his song Thriller. The popularity of the "Jheri curl," reflected the growing influence of mass media and consumerism that shaped beauty standards. While the Jheri curl was often celebrated as a modern and stylish look, it relied on chemical processing, which reinforced earlier pressures to alter natural hair. In contrast, during these same years, dreadlocks were also introduced into popular culture and popularized through reggae music, especially by Bob Marley's hair style and by the Rastafarian movement. This hairstyle became frequently associated with resistance, spirituality, and anti-colonial identity, particularly through their connection to Rastafarian beliefs and Pan-African ideology. As music, film, and fashion industries expanded internationally, this visibility made natural hair more susceptible to commodification. Scholars point out that Black hair has often been shaped and influenced by capitalism, as the beauty industry began to monopolize on natural hair the political movement got repurposed for commercial gain.
Hair straightening was considered mainstream and performed frequently throughout the 1980s and 1990s, often with relaxers containing harsh chemicals, particularly lye, that can cause harmful effects on the scalp like red patches, burns, and alopecia.Madame Figaro, Les cheveux ont faim , 11 November 2007INA, La phytothérapie , 7 November 2007
Present day
Internet presence Since the emergence of Web 2.0, a growing number of creators have been sharing their beauty advice via:
Blogs: Black Girl Long Hair,Dr. Johnson Elizabeth, Resistance and Empowerment in Black Women's Hair /Styling , Ashgate, 28 July 2013Huffington Post, Leila Noelliste's Life May Be Unconventional, But It's Awesome , 13 June 2014 Naturally Curly, Curly Nikki, Hair Lista, Afrobella,Jeffery A. Riley, 2011 Social Media Directory: The Ultimate Guide to Facebook, Twitter, and LinkedIn Resources , Que Publishing, 25 August 2010 Un-ruly.com in the US; Black Beauty Bag, Afrobelle, Ivy-Mag in France Web-zines: Naturally Happy HairHuffington Post, Open Letter to Allure, The New York Times and Other "Lamestream" Publications: If You Don't Know, You Better Ask Somebody , 8 July 2015 in the US; FashizBlack,Madame Figaro, Notre but : banaliser la mode afro et la beauté ethnique. , 26 January 2012 AfrosomethingMadame Figaro, Beautiful black blogs : huit filles à suivre sur le Net , 29 June 2015Le Point, En images : top 10 des meilleurs blogs féminins lifestyle , 5 September 2014Le Monde, A quand une femme noire en couverture de "Elle" ? , 31 January 2012 in France; Afro Style MagazineMediaUpdate, AfroStyle Magazine issue 11 out now , 7 April 2015 in the Netherlands
These websites have expanded the natural hair movement around the world so as to highlight the beauty of natural hair.
Events and festivals In 2014 The Curly Girl Collective held their first CurlFest, a festival now held annually in Brooklyn, New York, that celebrates natural hair. Outside the US, several events have developed to accompany the natural hair movement, particularly in France and in Africa: The salon Boucles d'ébène: A demonstration, has existed for ten years, dedicated to the black hairdressing and beauty.Réseau Outre-Mer première, Aline Tacite, fondatrice du salon Boucles d'Ébène : "Nous chérissons nos cheveux crépus, frisés, bouclés et ondulés" , 30 May 2015Juliette Sméralda, Du Cheveu défrisé au cheveu crépu , Broché, December 2012Le Monde, Salon Boucles d’ébène (30 May – 1st June) , 27 May 2015 The Miss Nappy Paris′ competition: The election of "Miss Nappy" so as to promote the Afro hair beauty.FashizBlack, Océane Lebubura élue Miss NAPPY Paris 2015 , 4 December 2014 The Massalia Nappy Days: Lectures, projections of documentaries and fashion shows.Mediapart, 1ères Massalia Nappy Days : Marseille sous le signe de la créativité et de la beauté au naturel , 17 September 2014 The Crépue d'ébène Festival at Abidjan (Ivory Coast): Dedicated to the natural beauty of the African woman and to the highlighting of the nappy hair.FashizBlack, Abidjan accueille « Crépu d’Ebène », son 1er festival dédié aux cheveux naturels , 12 August 2014 The Natural Hair Academy: Event to better understand the nappy hair, days of advice by speakers.Elle Belgique, La Natural Hair Academy : le rendez-vous des nappy girls , 17 March 2014 The AfricaParis Festival: Dedicated to the "Afropean" culture.
Presence in feminist culture Each woman has her own reason to retrieve her authenticity; some want to preserve their hair against aggressive hair styling methods such as weaves being too tight or harmful straightening chemical products, while others simply prefer their natural hair in spite of the pressure from the dominant aesthetics.
The natural hair movement has been encouraged by some female stars who have abandoned straightening, allowing their natural hair to make a comeback, such as Erykah Badu, Lupita Nyong'o, Solange Knowles, Janelle Monáe, and Viola Davis.
Legal issues On 3 July 2019, California became the first US state to prohibit discrimination over natural hair. Governor Gavin Newsom signed the CROWN Act into law, banning employers and schools from discriminating against hairstyles such as afros, braids, twists, and dreadlocks. Likewise, later in 2019 Assembly Bill 07797 became law in New York state; it "prohibits race discrimination based on natural hair or hairstyles."
"Ethnic" hair care industry
With the popularity of "going natural", hair care suppliers have seen a rapid decrease in the purchase of relaxers, the harsh chemical hair straightener. An industry that was once worth an estimated $774 million, relaxer sales have gone down 26% over the last five years, as of 2013 reports. Relaxer sales had fallen by 38% between 2012 and 2017 and were estimated to decrease to 45% by 2019.
Women who wear their hair natural are now spending more money on chemical-free products that highlight the best results for their natural textures. Hair care suppliers and markets are taking note, as Black consumers represent a lucrative segment for the hair care industry, prompting brands to adjust their product lines to meet this growing demand. However, many products that appear to cater to Black consumers, and may be perceived as Black-owned, are in fact owned by large corporations. This has prompted increased awareness and consumer scrutiny, as highlighted by reports identifying and listing non-Black-owned brands that consumers may have previously assumed were Black-owned.