Rugova ( or ) is a mountain region located to the north-west of the city of Peja, in Kosovo. In 2013, it was designated a national park by the Parliament of Kosovo.
Rugova is an ethnographically diverse region, with great importance for the literary branches of lexicology, etymology and onomastics. Rugova is a suitable region for hiking, skiing, mountaineering, paragliding, and picnics.
It was ranked as the fourth most important center for winter sports by the International Ski Federation (ISF). Furthermore, in April 2013, Peja won the "Tourism for Tomorrow" award for the project, "Peaks of the Balkans".www.wttc.org
Rugova is rich with many landform elements such as caves, waterfalls, glacial lakes, high peaks, and tunnels. The highest peak is Hajla at . From Qafa e Qyqes (Cuchoo's Neck) it is possible to observe the whole city of Peja. Guri i Kuq, , has views of Gjeravica, Trekufiri, Maja e Mariashit (Mariashi Peak), Maja e Hekurave (Iron Peak), Shkëlzeni and Lake Plav. Maja e Vjelakut is also a high peak at .
A via ferrata (iron path) starts from Peja, and is the only one in the Balkans.
Rugova offers good living conditions even though the number of residents has dramatically decreased.
Etymology
The term "Rugovë" derives from the word "rrugë" which means "street", as a lot of very important roads have crossed this region. The only route that connected Albania with Montenegro went through Rugova. The oldest name "Shtupel" dates back to 1292, and it represented two of Rugova's villages: Shtupeqi i madh and Shtupeqi i vogël. The meaning of this nomenclature comes from the word "stëp" which means an individual involved in the making of dairy products such as milk, cheese, and yogurt.)
All the village names in Rugova are rooted in the Albanian language. For example, the village of Dugave (now part of Zagreb) is derived from the word duka ("duke", Latin: dux); Kuqishtë is named after the red rocks and stones that can be found in this area; Reka e Allagës is derived from a noble in the region of Rožaje, and Stankaj from Stank Nika, who was very famous. The incursions of Slavic, and later, Ottoman, conquerors has meant many places have changed names over the centuries, as the power of various empires grew and waned.
Place names are based on features such as:
Natural: Gropa e Borës, Kërshi i Madh, Qafa e Deshve, Neqinati Ethnographic: Guri i Nuses, Qafa e Dasmorëve, Livadhi i Gjakut, Sheu i Qyqes Historical: Kodra e Trimave, Vorret e Shehitëve, Hajla e Keqe Native: Bjeshkët e Kelmendit, Bregu i Kishës, Kroi i Nikçve, Maja e Nikë Dedës, Lugu i Shkodrës, Qafa e Rexhajve Masterly: Maja e Lopëve, Guri i Çobanit, Llazet e Kuajve, Kërshi i Cjapit, Shpella e Martinit Rugova is enriched with new toponyms every now and then, for example, Kodra e Shkollës and Lëndina e Shkollës.
History
Early history
The Balkans have been inhabited since prehistoric times. There are signs that Rugova has been populated since the early stone age. This was proven by the discovery of a man's femur, found in the Bukuroshja e Fjetur Cave, and by a petroglyph. Because this region has not been studied extensively, its earliest history is known mostly through local traditions.
Medieval and Ottoman Period
The earliest official documents about Rugova are from the 13th century but this area was heavily populated only two centuries later. After the invasion of the Balkans by the Ottoman Empire (1389), Rugova was part of the Sanjak of Scutari. From the 16th century, it was part of the Sanjak of Dukagjin. Rugova became a part of the Kosovo Vilayet after the new administrative division in the 19th century.
The region had a kind of autonomy from the Ottoman Empire. They were exempted from the obligations of the Ottoman government, but time after time there were conflicts between the natives and the invaders. In 1638, the Ottoman Empire in Rugova sent an army of 15,000 soldiers to invade this region. However, their attempt was unsuccessful and the Ottomans were forced to turn back. Eleven years after that, in 1649, highlanders attacked the Meduni's castle. Three days after the attack they occupied it and won more autonomy. The fighting restarted in 1700, when the High Porte charged the Pasha of Peja to vanquish Rugova, resulting in 274 families being displaced from Rugova to Peshter, Novi Pazar.
The Rugovians opposed the Ottoman Empire by participating in the Austro-Turkish War in 1737–1739. However, their greatest contribution was given for the National Movement.
The Albanian National Movement
Rugovians were always ready to fight for freedom. They participated in the Assembly of the League of Prizren in 1878 (representatives: Sali Jaha, Çelë Shabani), and were crucial to the Battle of Noksic, which was the first victory of the League. They also participated in the League of Peja in 1899 (11 representatives), and the Assembly of "Verrat e Llukes" in 1903 (two representatives). Rugovians had a key role in an armed uprising in 1904, which included Peja and Gjakova. Following the rejection of the Young Turk revolution in 1908, Rugovians found themselves facing the Ottoman army which was equipped with 24 cannons.
Rugova was also involved in the First Balkan War. On 28 November 1912, Rugova sent 60 villagers in support of Albanian Independence. After the London Conference of Ambassadors in 1913, Kosovo was separated from Albania.
In the Second Balkan War, 1913–1914, the region changed from Albanian (late Ottoman) to Serbian authority. From 1915 to 1918, Rugova was occupied by Austro-Hungary until the Serbian government was reinstated in 1918. In 1919, an armed uprising broke out in Rugova. The natives fought against the 3rd Serbian Army. The most prominent leaders were Zhuj Selmani, Sali Rama, Ker Sadria, and Zhuk Haxhia. During these years, 410 Rugovian houses were burned, and citizens joined the Kaçak movement
World War II
Rugova was under the control of Italy during World War II. During this time the first municipality was formed, headed by Zhuj Ker Bardhi, and the first Albanian school was opened. In 1942, because of the betrayal by Montenegrins, the border was closed. Four defensive groups were formed, composed half of civilian and half of military members. The band of Zhuk Haxhia The band of Sali Rama The band of Rizë Zymeri The band of Sak Fazlia Among the fighters were women who defended their honour with weapons, for example, Bekë Maliqa (Bekë Alia) who killed 7 soldiers.
The National Liberation Movement in Rugova had a short life because the natives had lost their faith. In November 1944, Rugova and Peja were liberated.
Rugova after World War II
With the formation of Yugoslavia, Kosovo was part of the Socialist Autonomous Province of Serbia. As in any other period, there were conflicts between the Rugovians and the ruling regime. The clashes with the communists began in 1945. In Rugova, the Albanian Anti-Communist National-Democratic party was formed by the mayor, Sylë Mehmeti, who died in prison in Yugoslavia. This was the first political party in Kosovo and operated until 1952. During the Yugoslavian period, many Rugovians were active in the organization of protests and demonstrations in Kosovo. Rugova became the center of movements to stop the fighting, first in 1970, and then in 1990, when a Reconciliation Committee was founded by Anton Çetta. Rugovians rejected Serbian authority in the areas of schools, electrification, and other institutions, so there were many political prisoners.
In the 1990s, the Democratic League of Kosovo (LDK), the Association of Intellectuals, Humanitarian Association for the Return of Displaced Albanians were formed.
Kosovo War
In earlier wars, Rugova had been a shelter for patriots such as Hasan Prishtina and Haxhi Zeka. Similarly, during the Kosovo War, Rugova played a major role in sheltering those who were left homeless, and were seeking for a way to get into Montenegro and Albania. Rugova also had a branch of the Kosovo Liberation Army (KLA), commanded by Salih Lajçi, known as "The 136 Rugova Brigade".
During the war there were continuous attacks and confrontations, burning of houses, and killings. Some families, were able to keep their lands, and helped the KLA by supplying food, medicines, and other necessities. Many locals helped by supplying weapons.
The Rugovian lawyer, Bajram Kelmendi, was the first to press charges in the Hague against Slobodan Milošević. Rugova suffered major damage in the war and lost its most notable citizens.
Geography
Rugova is at a latitude of 42°44’ N and a longitude of 20°3’ E, and it is from Pristina, the capital of Kosovo. It covers a territory of 20,330 hectares, and from east to west it extends for . Rugova lies between the mountains of Hajla, Shtëdim, Lumbardh and Kopranik. The Peja's Lumbardh splits the mountains in half, forming a valley and a canyon (Rugova Gorge).
Eighty-five percent of the territory is covered by forests, while fifteen percent is alpine pasture. The terrain is rugged, with steep limestone slopes and deep, narrow, erosive gorges. The mountains have a slope of 15–30°, but occasionally reach 45–90°. The terrain contains various karstic features such as caves, natural tunnels, waterfalls, and glacial lakes.
The region of Rugova is divided into 13 villages (Shtupeqi i Vogël, Shtupeqi i Madh, Reka e Allagës, Drelaj, Pepaj, Malaj, Kuqishtë, Dugaivë, Haxhaj, Stankaj, Bogë, Shkrel dhe Koshutan) and five small neighbourhoods (Llaz, Bellopaq, Pecaj, Ujëmirë, Dreshaj). These villages are apart.
Many important roads pass through Rugova: Shkodra's valley connects Rugova with Tropojë and Shkodër, Qafa e Çakorrit leads to Plav and Gusinje, Qafa e Dasmorëve connects to Rožaje, and Qafa e Hajlës with Dacaj and Husaj.
Climate
Rugova has a wet, continental climate that is influenced by the mountains, short and hot summers, and long and harsh winters. Spring is late, and the seasons change quickly. The high level of precipitation is a result of clashes between the tropical and continental climates. Maximum precipitation is in December, , and minimum in July, . The annual minimum and maximum are and , respectively.
Snow is present on the peaks until August, with a depth ranging from to .
The average temperatures in the region are: to in the spring; to in the summer; in the fall; and to in the winter.
Hydrography
Rugova consists of a very dense water network. Although limestone does not favor the presence of groundwater, it can contain large amounts of water underground.
In the southern part of the area is the glacial Kuqishta Lake (), which is filled with fresh water during all seasons, and Drelaj Lake (), which dries up during the hot summer. Some lakes are also found in the northern part of the area, but all of them are unstable.
Water sources in Haxhaj, and at the foot of Jelenku peak, gather in Kuqishtë and create the Lumbardhi i Pejës, which is the water source for the region.
The White Drin waterfall is located at the mouth of the White Drin River. It is high and is located at the 6th kilometer of the canyon. On the northern side of the river, are the following landmarks:
Gurra e Saku Ramës (a fountain) and Shentë e Pepajve at the 18th kilometer. Gërka e Koshutanit, gathers the water of three villages, and the so-called Sheun e keq, in the 17th kilometer. Sheu i Rek Allagës, which collects water from the Fountain of Hajlës and from three villages, and then flows into the river. Sheu i Nikçve which brings water from Lugu i Shtedimit and Sheu i Llazeve, passes by two corn mills and flows into the river at the 13th kilometer. The river of Shushica is in the east part of the region, and flows into the Drin River (Drini i Bardhë). Small streams flow from the southern part of the region, for example, Sheu i Llazit të mullinit, flows into the river at the 19th kilometer. Sheu i Përvarës, which brings water from Lumbardhi and Guri i Kuq, and flows into the river.