Dmitri Sarafutdinov (; born 16 September 1986 in Korkino), also known as Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, is a professional Russian rock climber and competition climber who specializes in competition bouldering. He has won three World Championships, in 2007, 2011 and 2012 and one Bouldering World Cup in 2013.
Climbing career
Dmitri started climbing when he was six years old and trained in a small climbing gym in Korkino.
Competition climbing
In 2002 he started competing in the youth competition speed climbing and competition lead climbing disciplines. In 2002 he won the bronze medal in speed Youth A at the World Youth Championship in Canteleu, France and in 2004 he won the bronze medal in lead Junior at the World Youth Championship in Edinburgh.
In 2003 he began competing in the senior categories, in lead, speed, and bouldering disciplines, and in 2004 he won the Russian Climbing Championship in bouldering. From 2007 he focused on bouldering where he achieved his greatest success.
On 24 April 2007 Dmitri took his first podium in the Bouldering World Cup placing second in Sofia, and on 23 June he gained his first victory at Fiera di Primiero, Italy. He ended the season in second place behind Kilian Fischhuber. In the same year he won his first gold medal at the World Championships in Avilés, Spain.
In 2011 he achieved five podiums and the final second place in the Bouldering World Cup and his second gold medal at the World Championships in Arco, Italy. In 2012 he won his third World Championships, in Paris.
In 2013 he won his first Bouldering World Cup title, with two wins, one second and two podium finishes out of eight events.
Rock climbing
In July 2012 he climbed his hardest sport climbing route, the -graded route, Ali-Hulk extension, in Rodellar, Spain. The route consists of a boulder route and a sport climbing route that are linked together.
Rankings
Climbing World Cup Discipline 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Bouldering 56 - 27 23 2 3 24 4 2 4 1 2 11 12 24 Lead 63 - 44 - 44 - - - - - 49 - - - - Speed 20 - 11 19 16 27 - - - - - - - - - Combined 14 - 3 10 4 4 - - - - 4 - - - 77
Climbing World Championships Discipline 2005 2007 2009 2011 2012 2014 2016 Bouldering 7 1 - 1 1 5 33 Lead 30 47 - - - - - Speed - 11 - - - - -
Climbing European Championships Discipline 2004 2006 2007 2008 2010 2013 2015 Bouldering 8 - 4 5 9 2 11 Lead 54 3 - 41 - 18 - Speed - 8 - - - 22 -
Number of medals in the World Cup Bouldering Season Gold Silver Bronze Total 2007 2 1 3 2008 2 1 3 2009 0 2010 1 1 2 2011 2 2 1 5 2012 1 1 2 2013 2 1 2 5 2014 2 2 4 Total 12 9 3 24
See also List of grade milestones in rock climbing History of rock climbing Rankings of most career IFSC gold medals
References
External links