A sewing machine needle is a specialized needle for use in a sewing machine. A sewing machine needle consists of: shank - clamped by the sewing machine's needle holder shoulder - where the thick shank tapers down to the shaft shaft - a length suitable for driving the eye and thread through the material and down to the bobbin groove - cut in the front of the shaft to allow the thread to lie more closely to the needle as it passes through the fabric scarf - provides extra room for the hook or shuttle to pass close by eye - carries the thread point - penetrates the material by either parting the threads or cutting a hole in the fabric
Domestic sewing machines, designed for use in homes as opposed to commercial sewing operations, use a common needle type (including a standardized length, as well as shank shape and diameter) referred to as "Groz-Beckert 130 / 705," "HAx1" or "15x1" needles.Classification of Sewing Machine Needles Needles labeled as "universal" needles are of this type and are generally the type of needles found in retail sewing supply shops. The 15x1 needle is available in different standardized shaft diameters suitable for sewing different fabrics (see the section on Size codes below).
For commercial/industrial sewing machines, there are several proprietary sizes and types of needles which are not mentioned in this article.
Construction
The majority of sewing machine needles are made of various grades of hardened steel coated with either nickel or chromium, though certain specialty needles are coated with titanium nitride on top of chromium. Titanium nitride is a reflective golden-colored ceramic material which reduces abrasion allowing the needle to stay sharper longer and last many times longer than other varieties. The titanium does not make the needle any stronger in regards to bending, however, and such needles will bend and snap just as easily as any other.
Nickel plating is the least expensive and least durable form of plating. Chrome plating lasts longer and gives better abrasion resistance. Titanium nitride on top of chromium is the most expensive and is superior in performance to both chrome and nickel.
Size codes More than a dozen modern conventions exist for numbering the sizes of sewing machine needles, though only two remain in common use: the American (established and propagated by Singer) and the international system (also called the "European", "number metric" or "NM" system). The European designation, established in 1942, corresponds to the diameter of the needle in hundredths of a millimeter at a non-reinforced point above the scarf. In both cases, a larger number corresponds to a larger, heavier needle.
Most sewing machine needles will have packaging that gives both of these numbers in its size description — (e.g. as either 100/16 or 16/100). The length of all sewing machine needles has been standardized and does not require a separate code.
The metric designation is the actual needle diameter in hundredths of a millimeter.Sizes.com - needles The following chart gives a comparison of the two systems:Needle Size Conversion Chart
+Universal needle shaft diameters Diameter American size International size Fabric types 8 60Very fine fabrics (silk, chiffon, organza, voile, lace) 9 65 10 70 11 75 Light weight fabrics (cotton, heavier silks, synthetics, spandex, lycra) 12 80 14 90 Medium weight fabrics (velvet, fine corduroy, linen, muslin, tricot, knits, fleece) 16 100 Heavy weight fabrics (denim, leather, canvas, suiting) 18 110 Very heavy weight fabrics (heavy denim, upholstery fabric, faux fur) 19 120 20 125 Extra heavy fabrics 21 130
Types Most currently manufactured needles are designated according to "type", and fall into the following categories:
Type Description UniversalThe universal class of needles are used on domestic machines. "Universal" refers to the shape of the needle shank and length of the needle rather than the actual sewing application or point. The most notable feature of universal needles is the flat face on the needle shank which helps to ensure the needle is inserted correctly. A universal class needle is designed to be used on virtually any domestic sewing machine. They do not fit industrial or commercial machines. EmbroideryThese needles come with an extra large eye and a specially shaped scarf to prevent embroidery thread from shredding. BallpointAlso known as a jersey needle. Similar to a universal needle but has rounded edges and is not tapered the same way. Intended for closely knit fabrics where the rounded tip will push the weave out of the way rather than cut through it.Jeans/ DenimIntended for tightly woven cottons such as canvas. Has a strong, sharp point and very slender eye.WingNeedle has distinct "wings" on either side of the eye which hold the fabric open. Often used on hems and borders, and for decorative finishing. A larger size needle will leave a larger hole in the final piece of sewn fabric.LeatherThese have a distinct triangular point to help the needle make a large, clean hole in non-woven materials like vinyl.MetallicSimilar to an embroidery needle with a large eye and extra long scarf, but also includes a Teflon coating to the eye so that metallic threads will not shred when used.QuiltingDesigned with an extra strong shaft and with a tapered point to penetrate multiple layers of woven fabrics without breaking and without shredding either the thread or the fabric being sewn.Serger/ IndustrialThese needles can only be used in serger and overlocking machines.Microtex/ SharpsMore slender and sharper than the universal needle. Suitable for fine woven fabrics, but also compatible for quilting and appliqué.StretchThese needles are intended for use on fabrics with a significant amount of Spandex or similar fabric content. Rounded tip and specialized scarf and eye to prevent skipping.TopstitchingThese have exceptionally sharp points and a very large eye to accommodate thick decorative topstitching threads. Very similar to the leather needle.Twin/ TripleNeedles set in pairs or in groups of three on a single shaft designed to sew multiple, usually decorative, threads at once. These require specialized machinery to accommodate the extra needles, as well as multiple thread feeds. The twin or triple designation is usually accompanied by another needle type specification such as "stretch" or "denim", etc.
Singer number and color codes Singer colors and numbers its needles with the following system of codes to indicate the needle point type and shaft size:
code and shank colorPoint type2000 - uncoloredchromium-coated regular point, for high-speed embroidery stitching2020 - redregular point, for woven fabrics (most common Singer needle type)2022, 2053, 2054 - uncoloredoverlock needles, only for overlocking machines2044 - uncoloredembroidery needle2045 - yellowball point, for knits2026 - blueheavy-duty point, for denims2032 - brownchisel or wedge point, for leathers2025 - uncoloredtwin needles2040 - uncoloredhemstitch or wing-needle, for "heirloom" or decorative sewing, best on woven cottons and linens
Shoulder colorShaft size (U.S.)Shaft size (international)Diametergreen9 100650.65 mmorange11750.75 mmblue14900.90 mmpurple16 1001.00 mmsilver181101.10 mm
SVP Worldwide colour codes The coloured band on some types of Inspira needles indicates the needle type.
Shoulder colourTypepurpleStretchyellowMicrotexredEmbroideryblueDenimgreenQuiltinguncoloredOthers
Kenmore color codes Kenmore colors its needles with a different system of color codes which indicate the needle's size:
Shank colorShaft size (U.S.)Shaft size (international)Diameterblue11750.75 mmorange12800.80 mmred14900.90 mmpurple161001.00 mmgreen181101.10 mm
Schmetz shank colour codes The coloured top band on some types of Schmetz needles indicates the needle shank types.Schmetz Needle Chart
Top shoulder colourTypeyellowStretchlightgraySuper StretchblueJeansorangeJerseygreenQuilting redEmbroiderypurpleMicrotexpinkMetalliclt. greenTopstitchbrownLeatheruncoloredOthers
Schmetz needles with a universal needle (shank) have a colored bottom band indicating the (shaft) sizes:
Bottom shoulder colourShaft size (international) Diameter light cyan600.60 mmvery light blue650.65 mmmedium green-cyan700.70 mmstrong pink750.75 mmred-orange800.80 mmstrong cyan900.90 mmdark violet1001.00 mmyellow1101.10 mmbrown1201.20 mmblack1251.25 mmbright red1301.30 mm
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