Most of the peaks on Mount Kenya have been summited. The majority of these involve rock climbing as the easiest route, although some only require a scramble or a walk. The highest peak that can be ascended without climbing is Point Lenana, . The majority of the 15,000 visitors to the national park each year climb this peak. In contrast, approximately 200 people summit Nelion and 50 summit Batian, the two highest peaks.
Mount Kenya's climbing seasons are unique as a result of its location only 10 miles from the equator. During the northern summer the rock routes on the north side of the peak are in good summer condition, while at the same time the ice routes on the south side of the peak are prime shape. The situation is reversed during the southern summer. The two seasons are separated by several months of rainy season before and after, during which climbing conditions are generally unfavorable.
Walking routes
There are eight walking routes up to the main peaks. Starting clockwise from the north these are the: Meru, Chogoria, Kamweti, Naro Moru, Burguret, Sirimon and Timau Routes. Of these Chogoria, Naro Moru and Sirimon and used most frequently and therefore have staffed gates. The other routes require special permission from the Kenya Wildlife Service to use.
Meru Route This route leads from Katheri, south of Meru, to Lake Rotundu following the Kathita Munyi river. It does not lead to the peaks, but up onto the alpine moorland on the slopes of the mountain.
Chogoria Route
This route leads from Chogoria town up to the peaks circuit. The from the forest gate to the park gate are often done by vehicle, but it is also possible to walk. There is much wildlife in the forest, with safari ant columns crossing the track, monkeys in the trees, and the potential for seeing elephant, buffalo and leopard. The road is not in good condition, and requires careful driving and walking. Near the park gate the bamboo zone starts, with grasses growing to high.
Once in the park the track passes through rosewood forests, with lichens hanging from the branches. At one point the path splits, with the smaller track leading to a path up the nearby Mugi Hill and across to Lake Ellis.
Near the trackhead a small bridge crosses the Nithi stream. (Following the stream down-river a few hundred metres leads to The Gates Waterfall.) The path heads up a ridge above the Gorges Valley, with views to the peaks, Lake Michaelson, The Temple, and across the valley to Delamere and Macmillan Peaks. Hall Tarns are situated right on the path and above a cliff directly above Lake Michaelson.
As the path carries on it crosses the flat head of the Nithi River and then the slope steepens. The path splits, heading west to Simba Col, and south west to Square Tarn. These are both on the Peak Circuit Route.
Kamweti Route This is the longest route in to the peaks and follows the Nyamindi West River. It is a restricted route, but is still used occasionally.
Naro Moru Route This route is taken by many of the trekkers who try to reach Point Lenana. It can be ascended in only 3 days and has bunkhouses at each camp so a tent is not necessary.
The terrain is usually good, although one section is called the Vertical Bog.
The track starts in Naro Moru town and heads past the Park Headquarters up the ridge between the Northern and Southern Naro Moru Rivers. At the roadhead is the Meteorological Station, to which it is possible to drive in the dry season. The route drops down into the Northern Naro Moru Valley to Mackinder's Camp on the Peak Circuit Path.
Gathiuru Route
It starts in Gathiuru, and mainly follows the North Burguret River, then continues up to Hut Tarn on the Peak Circuit Path. It is the shortest route to Peak Lenana. It is managed by the Gathiuru Community Forest Association. The locals in the areas have for a long time suffered human-wildlife conflict. They had to wake up to the reality that God has endowed them with a great mountain and wildlife from which they can earn a living. They came together and formed the Gathiuru Community Forest Association which was aimed at conserving the two great natural resources as they make a living. To access the route tourists will have to pass through the Mt Kenya Royal Cottages for payment and facilitation. This is a lodge situated opposite the Nanyuki airstrip and has entered into a partnership with the association to help market the route for the locals so that the community benefits. The Gathiuru Route boasts of great fauna and flora, wildlife and great scenery.
Sirimon Route This route starts east around the Mount Kenya Ring Road from Nanyuki. The gate is further along the track, which can be walked or driven by four-wheel drives.
The track climbs up through the forest. On the northern side of the mountain there is no bamboo zone, so the forest gradually turns into moorland covered with giant heather. The track ends at Old Moses Camp and becomes a path. This continues up the hill before splitting into two routes. To the left, the least used path goes around the side of the Barrow, to Likii North Hut. The vegetation becomes more sparse, with giant lobelia and groundsels dotted around. The path climbs over a ridge, before rejoining the main path ascending the Mackinder Valley. Shipton's Cave can be found in the rock wall to the left of the steep path just before reaching Shipton's Camp.
From Shipton's Camp, it is possible to ascend the ridge directly in front of the camp to the site of Kami Hut, which no longer exists, or follow the river up to Lower Simba Tarn and eventually to Simba Col. These are both on the Peak Circuit Path.
Timau Route This is a restricted route. It starts very close to the Sirimon Route, at Timau Village, and skirts around the edge of the forest for a considerable distance. It used to lead to the highest point on the mountain to which it was possible to drive, but has not been used for many years. From the trackhead it is possible to reach Halls Tarns in a few hours, then follow the Chogoria Route to the Peak Circuit Path.
Peak Circuit Path This is a path around the main peaks, with a distance of about and height gain and loss of over . It can be walked in one day, but more commonly takes two or three. It can also be used to join different ascent and descent routes. The route does not require technical climbing.
Climbing routes Most of the peaks on Mount Kenya have been summited. The majority of these involve rock climbing as the easiest route. The grades given are UIAA alpine climbing grades.For descriptions of climbs see the online East African Mountain Guide
Peak Altitude Route Name Grade Climbing Season* First AscentBatianNorth Face Standard RouteIV+SummerA.H. Firmin and P. Hicks, 31 July 1944Alpine Journal, 1945South-West Ridge RouteIVWinterA.H. Firmin and J.W. Howard, 8 January 1946Mountain Club of Kenya Bulletin 3, 1947NelionNormal RouteIV−Summer/WinterE.E. Shipton and P.W. Harris 6 January 1929Alpine Journal Vol. 42Batian/NelionIce Window RouteV−SummerP. Snyder, Y. Laulan and B. LeDain 20 August 1974Mountain Club of Kenya Bulletin 72, 1974Diamond CouloirVISummerP. Snyder and T. Mathenge 4–5 October 1973Pt PigottSouth RidgeIII+Summer/WinterW.M. and R.J.H. Chambers February 1959Thomson's FlakeThomson's FlakeVISummer/WinterL. Herncarek, W. Welsch and B. Cliff 9 September 1962Mountain Club of Kenya Bulletin 55, 1962Pt DuttonNorth-East Face and RidgeIVSummer/WinterS. Barusso and R.D. Metcalf 4 August 1966Pt JohnSouth-East GullyIIISummerE.E. Shipton and R.E.G. Russel 18 December 1929Pt MelhuishSouth-East FaceIV+Summer/WinterR.M.Kamke and W.M. Boyes December 1960Pt Peter 4757 m (15,607 ft)North-East Gully and RidgeIIISummer/WinterE.E. Shipton and H.W. Tilman July 1960Window RidgeVI, A1Summer/WinterF.A. Wedgewood and H.G. Nicol 8 August 1963Midget PeakSouth GullyIVSummer/WinterE.E. Shipton and H.W. Tilman August 1930 * Climbing Season refers to northern hemisphere summers and winters.
Huts Caretakers are present at most huts, but not all.
The huts range from very basic (Liki North) with little more than a roof, to luxurious with log fires and running water (Meru Mt Kenya Lodge). Most huts have no heat or light, but are spacious with dormitories and communal areas. They also offer separate accommodation for porters and guides. The communal areas of the huts can be used by campers wishing to retreat from the weather or to store food away from the hyaena and hyraxes.
Around the Peak Circuit Path
Austrian Hut/Top Hut () Austrian Hut is the highest hut on Mount Kenya, with the exception of Howell Hut on Nelion. It is a good base for the ascent of Lenana, or for exploring the surrounding area. Peaks that can be ascended with Austrian Hut as a base camp include Point Thompson, Point Melhuish and Point John. It is also the starting point for the Normal Route up Nelion, as well as other routes up to the summits. The hut was built with Austrian funding, following the rescue of Gerd Judmeier. Two Tarn Hut () Two Tarn Hut is located on Two Tarn Col beside a lake. It is often used before ascending Batian from the southern and western routes. Kami Hut (site of) () Kami Hut was constructed in 1963 and was used by climbers of the north face of Batian until the local Kami Tarn became too polluted.
Huts on Chogoria Route Meru Mt Kenya Lodge () This is a privately owned lodge on the edge of the national park. Park fees have to be paid. The lodge is about 500 m from the park gate, and consists of several log cabins, each with a bedroom, kitchen, bathroom and living area with log fireplace. There is hot running water in the cabins, which sleep 3–4 people. The campsite is located at the park gate, and has running water. Urumandi Hut (site of) () This hut was built in 1923 and is no longer used. Minto's Hut (porters only) () Minto's Hut sleeps 8 porters, and is situated near Hall Tarns. There is a campsite nearby. Water is taken directly from the tarns. The tarns have no outflow and so the stagnant water needs to be filtered or boiled before use.
Huts on Naro Moru Route The Warden's Cottage () This was home to the park's senior wardens until 1998. There are two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen and a living area with veranda and log fire. There is running hot water. The cottage is inside the national park, so park fees must be paid. Meteorological Station () The Met Station is administered by Naro Moru Lodge. There are several bunkhouses here as well as a campsite. Mackinder's Camp () Mackinder's Camp is also administered by Naro Moru Lodge. There is a large bunkhouse and plenty of space for camping.
Huts on Sirimon Route
Sirimon Bandas () Sirimon Bandas are located at Sirimon Gate, just inside Mt Kenya National Park. The bandas each have two bedrooms, a kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom and a veranda. There is hot running water. The surrounding area contains much wildlife, including hyaena, zebra, many antelope, baboons and many species of birds. Park fees have to be paid, although the bandas are situated just outside the gates. There is a campsite next to the bandas, with running water and long drops. Old Moses Camp () Old Moses Camp is administered by Bantu Utamaduni Lodge. It has dormitories and a large campsite, as well as accommodation for guides and porters. Liki North Hut () Liki North Hut was little more than a shed to keep the weather off, but now it has lost its roof so provides no shelter any more. However there is space to camp, a basic toilet and a river nearby for water. It is on the lesser used path between Old Moses and Shipton's Camps and can by used as a base for climbing Terere and Sendeyo or to stop off on the way to Shipton's Camp. Shipton's Camp ()