Hanfu are the historical clothing of the Han Chinese, here categorized by clothing style.
Informal wear
Types include tops and bottoms, long skirt, and one-piece robes that wrap around the body once or several times (shenyi).
Zhongyi (中衣), which is usually the inner garment much like a Western T-shirt and pants, can be wear along in casual.
The typical set of informal wear consists of two or three layers. The first layer is mostly zhongyi (中衣). The next layer is the main layer which is mostly closed at the front. There can be an optional third layer which is often an overcoat called a zhaoshan which is open at the front.
For footwear, white socks and black cloth shoes (with white soles) are the norm. But in the past, shoes may have a front face panel attached to the tip of the shoes. + List of Inner garments Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images Zhōngyī 中衣 Bàofù 抱腹 Han Dùdōu 肚兜, 兜肚, or 兜兜 Qing Héhuān Jīn 合欢襟 Chest covering that acts like a camisole. It covers the front and has strings in the back. Yuan dynasty Liǎngdāng 两当 It is an underwear which is made up of a square-shaped back and front panels. A form of hufu. It was introduced in the Central Plains by the nomads of China. Wei and Jin Mǒxiōng 抹胸 A rectangular piece of cloth tied with strings to cover the breasts and give them support. Song Xièyī 亵衣 A camisole that is in a rounded diamond shape and often embroidered, tied around the neck and around the lower back. Pre-Han Xīnyī 心衣 Han Zhǔyāo 主腰 Ming + List of informal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Description Period Images Zhíjū 直裾 Straight lapelled, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han Qūjū 曲裾 Diagonal body wrapped, full body garment. Pre-Qin – Han Kùzhě 裤褶 Clothing with trousers for riding or military style clothing. A short coat with trousers. Pre-Qin – Ming. Páofú 袍服 Yèsāpáo 曳撒 or 一撒 A form of kuzhe. Ming Zhì sūn fú or yisefu 质孙服 or 一色服 "robe of one colour" Introduced in Yuan; later became a uniform for the military officials Ming. Yuan – Ming Rúqún 襦裙 "Jacket and skirt" An upper garment covered by a separate skirt. A common clothing for women. Pre-Qin – Modern Ǎoqún/ Shānqún 袄裙/衫裙 A short coat with a long skirt underneath. A common clothing for women. Han – Modern Zhíduō 直裰 Straight robe. Similar to zhiju but with vents at sides and cuffed sleeves.
A common attire for men. Tang – Ming Modern Dàopáo 道袍 Taoist robe. Worn by Taoist priests and normal scholars. Song – Modern Shuǐtiányī 水田衣 Ming-Qing Bǎijiāyī 百家衣 Liu Song – Modern
Semi-formal wear Generally, this form of wear is suitable for meeting guests or going to meetings and other special cultural days. This form of dress is often worn by the nobility or the upper-class as they are often expensive pieces of clothing, usually made of silks and damasks. The coat sleeves are often deeper than the shenyi to create a more voluminous appearance.
A piece of ancient Chinese clothing can be "made semi-formal" by the addition of the following appropriate items:
Chang (裳): a pleated skirt Bixi (蔽膝): a cloth attached from the waist, covering front of legs. Zhaoshan (罩衫): long open fronted coat
+ List of semi-formal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images Banbi 半臂 A half-sleeved waistcoat. Tang – Ming Bijia 比甲 An open-sided vest. Ming Beizi or
Hechang 褙子 or 鹤氅 Large loose outer coat with loose and long sleeves Song – Ming
Formal wear In addition to informal and semi-formal wear, there is a form of dress that is worn only at confucian rituals, important sacrifices, religious activities or by special people who are entitled to wear them (such as officials and emperors).
The most formal dress civilians can wear is the xuanduan (sometimes called yuanduan 元端),Xu, Zhongguo Gudai Lisu Cidian, p. 7. which consists of a black or dark blue top garment that runs to the knees with long sleeve (often with white piping), a bottom red chang, a red bixi (which can have a motif and/or be edged in black), an optional white belt with two white streamers hanging from the side or slightly to the front called peishou(佩綬), and a long black guan. Additionally, wearers may carry a long jade gui (圭) or wooden hu (笏) tablet (used when greeting royalty). This form of dress is mostly used in sacrificial ceremonies such as Ji Tian (祭天) and Ji Zu (祭祖), etc., but is also appropriate for state occasions. The xuanduan is basically a simplified version of full court dress of the officials and the nobility. + List of formal wear Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images Xuanduan/ Yuanduan 玄端/ 元端 Literally "dark solemn", a very formal dark robe. Pre-Qin – Song Shenyi 深衣 A long full body garment. Pre-Qin – Ming Yuanlingshan/ Panlingpao 圓領衫/盤領袍 Closed round-collared robe. Mostly used for official occasions. Sui – Ming Lanshan 襴衫 Closed round-collared robe with black edges. Mostly used for academical dress; worn by scholars and students (生員) taking the imperial examination. Tang – Ming Daxiushan 大袖衫 Large Sleeve Gown. Worn by royal women. Five dynasties – Tang Chang'ao 長襖 A long overcoat Ming Zaju chuishao fu or Guiyi 杂裾垂髾服 or 袿衣 A formal dress worn by Elite women. Cao Wei to Northern and Southern dynasties
Court dress
Court dress is the dress worn at very formal occasions and ceremonies that are in the presence of a monarch (such as an enthronement ceremony). The entire ensemble of clothing can consist of many complex layers and look very elaborate. Court dress is similar to the xuanduan in components but have additional adornments and elaborate headwear. They are often brightly colored with vermillion and blue. There are various versions of court dress that are worn for certain occasions. The practical use of court dress is now obsolete in the modern age since there is no reigning monarch in China anymore.
Those in academia or officialdom have distinctive gowns (known as changfu 常服 in court dress terms). This varies over the ages but they are typically round collared gowns closed at the front. The most distinct feature is the headgear which has 'wings' attached. Only those who passed the civil examinations are entitled to wear them, but a variation of it can be worn by ordinary scholars and laymen and even for a groom at a wedding (but with no hat).
Court dress of emperors + Court dress of Emperors Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images Longpao (龙袍) Jifu 吉服 The dragon robe for special occasions. Shang – Ming Changfu 常服 The dragon robe for daily wear. Tang – Qing Mianfu 冕服 Attire worn by emperors and crown princes. Shang – Ming Tongtianguanfu 通天冠服 Tongtian, literally means "direct links with heaven". Ceremonial dress. Shang – Ming Bianfu 弁服 Occasional court dress. Also worn by officials or the nobility. Shang – Ming
Court dress of officials + Court dress of Officials: Guanfu (官服) Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images Chaofu 朝服 A red ceremonial court dress of emperor, officials or nobility. Zhou – Ming Gongfu 公服 Formal court dress according to ranks. Tang – Ming Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress. Song – Qing Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ming – Qing Zhongjingfu 忠静服 Retired official's bufu with same colour long cloth belt. Ming Cifu 賜服 Ceremonial court dress of the highest rank officials. The right to wear such dress was bestowed by emperors as a special honour. Ming – Qing Mangfu 蟒服 Also known as the "four-clawed dragon" robe or "python robe". It is a type of Cifu. Ming-Qing Feiyufu 飞鱼服 Also known as "flying fish" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming Douniufu 斗牛服 Also known as "fighting bull" robe. It is a type of Cifu. Ming + Official Dress Codes of Officials in Ming Dynasty Precedence Rank Robe Color Animal on Patch (Civil) Animal on Patch (Military) Exemplified Positions (Not All-Inclusive) 1st (Highest) First Rank Primary 正一品 Red-crowned crane Lion Emperor's Chief Advisor 太師 Regional Commander 都督 2nd First Rank Secondary 從一品 Emperor's Assistant 少傅 Regional Executive Officer 都督同知 3rd Second Rank Primary 正二品 Golden pheasant Lion Crown Prince's Teaching Assistant太子少師 Secretary of Defense 兵部尚書 4th Second Rank Secondary 從二品 Governor 布政使 Provincial Deputy Commander 都指揮同知 5th Third Rank Primary 正三品 Peacock Tiger Mayor of Beijing 順天府尹 Deputy Secretary of Labor 工部侍郎 6th Third Rank Secondary 從三品 Minister of the Imperial Stud 太僕寺卿 Minister of Salt Supply 都轉鹽運使 7th Fourth Rank Primary 正四品 Wild goose Leopard (Eunuch Position) Handler of the Imperial Seal 掌印太監 Minister of Foreign Affairs 鴻臚寺卿 8th Fourth Rank Secondary 從四品 Principal of the Imperial Academy 國子監祭酒 Governor's Junior Assistant 參議 9th Fifth Rank Primary 正五品 Silver pheasant Bear Principal of the Imperial Medical Academy 太醫院使 Grand Secretary of the Cabinet 内閣大學士 10th Fifth Rank Secondary 從五品 Junior Scholar at the Imperial Library 翰林院侍讀學士 Deputy Manager of the Department of Justice 刑部員外郎 11th Sixth Rank Primary 正六品 Egret Panther (Female Position) Manager of Royal House Records 司記 Minister of Buddhist Affairs 僧錄司善世 12th Sixth Rank Secondary 從六品 Deputy Mayor 同知 Deputy Manager of Minority Affairs 安撫司副使 13th Seventh Rank Primary 正七品 Mandarin duck Panther Auditor of the Supreme Court 大理寺評事 Investigating censor 監察御史 14th Seventh Rank Secondary 從七品 Monitor of the Six Ministries 給事中 Deputy Ambassador 行人司左司副 15th Eighth Rank Primary 正八品 Oriole Rhinoceros Accountant at the Department of Finance 戶部照磨 Deputy County Administrator 縣丞 16th Eighth Rank Secondary 從八品 Assistant Priest at the Ministry of Imperial Sacrifices 太常寺祀丞 Supervisor at the Ministry of Royal Food Service 光祿寺監事 17th Ninth Rank Primary 正九品 Quail A horse in the sea (not seahorse) Chief Servant at the Ministry of Royal Theatres 教坊司奉鑾 Chief Officer at the Headquarter of Official Travels 會同館大使 18th (Lowest) Ninth Rank Secondary 從九品 Warden 司獄 Marshal 巡檢
Court dress for women + Court dress of Woman Romanization Hanzi Definition Period Images Huidi-yi 褘翟衣 Attire worn by empresses and crown princesses. Zhou – Ming Dashanxiapei 大衫霞帔 The large gown with the radiance hanging scarf. Ceremonial court dress of empresses and mìngfu. Song- Ming Changfu 常服 Everyday court dress of mìngfu. Ming Bufu 补服 Changfu sewn with Mandarin square. Ceremonial court dress of mìngfu. Ming
Cloaks
Lower garments