Leeuwarden (; ; ; ) is a city and municipality in Friesland, Netherlands, with a population of 127,073 (2023). It is the provincial capital and seat of the Provincial Council of Friesland.
The region has been continuously inhabited since the 10th century. It came to be known as Leeuwarden in the early 9th century AD and was granted city privileges in 1435. It is the main economic hub of Friesland, situated in a green and water-rich environment. Leeuwarden is a former royal residence and has a historic city centre, many historically relevant buildings, and a large shopping centre with squares and restaurants. Leeuwarden was awarded the title European Capital of Culture for 2018. Also, Leeuwarden has been a UNESCO City of Literature since 2019.
The (Eleven Cities Tour), an ice skating tour passing the eleven cities of Friesland, starts and finishes in Leeuwarden.
The following towns and villages within the municipality have populations in excess of 1,000 people: Leeuwarden, Stiens, Grou, Goutum, Wergea, Jirnsum, Reduzum, and Wirdum. The municipality is governed by the interim mayor Foort van Oosten and a coalition of the Labour Party, Christian Democratic Appeal, and GreenLeft.
Etymology The name "Leeuwarden" (or older variants of it) first came into use for Nijehove, the most important of the three villages (the other two being Oldehove and Hoek) which in the early 9th century merged into Leeuwarden (Villa Lintarwrde 825). There is much uncertainty about the origin of the city's name. Historian and archivist Wopke Eekhoff summed up a total of over 200 different spelling variants, of which Leeuwarden (Dutch), Liwwadden (Stadsfries), and Ljouwert (West Frisian) are still in use.
The second part of the name is easily explained: Warden, West Frisian/Dutch/Low German for an artificial dwelling-hill, is a designation of terps, reflecting the historical situation.
The first part of the name, leeuw, means lion in modern standard Dutch. This interpretation corresponds with the coat of arms adopted by the city, canting arms featuring a heraldic lion. However, modern standard Dutch was not used in this region in the Middle Ages, when the city was called Lintarwrde. Some scholars argue that the name of the city is derived from leeu-, a corruption of luw- (Dutch for 'sheltered from the wind', cf. the maritime term leeward) or from lee- (a Dutch word for waterway). 'Sheltered landing place or harbour' could be the original meaning. This suits the watery province of Friesland and the position of the original three villages at the end of an important estuary called Middelzee.
The name is also similar to that of the French commune Lewarde, located in the Nord Department, an originally Flemish-speaking area annexed to France in the 17th century. Western Flemish was related to Frisian and also to Saxon up to the 11th century.
History
The oldest remains of houses date back to the 2nd century AD in the Roman era and were discovered during an excavation near the Oldehove. Inhabited continuously since the 10th century, the city's first reference as a population centre is in German sources from 1285, and records exist of city privileges granted in 1435. Situated along the Middelzee, it was an active centre of maritime trade.Stadsgeschiedenis Leeuwarden , Historisch Centrum Leeuwarden. The waterway silted-up in the 13th century.Langen, G. de Leeuwarden 750 - 2000 Hoofdstad van Friesland p. 19 (Franeker 1999)
The Grote or Jacobijnerkerk () is the oldest building in the city. The 15th century was the period of the two opposing Frisian factional parties Vetkopers and Schieringers. The bastions and a moat were built in the period 1481–1494. In 1747 William IV, Prince of Orange was the last stadtholder residing in the Stadhouderlijk Hof. In the first half of the 19th century the fortifications were demolished.
From 1580 to 1752, a provincial mint operated in the city, minting gold, silver and copper coins of Friesland.De muntslag van Friesland www.duiten.nl
The Jewish community of Leeuwarden was one of the earliest in the Netherlands aside from Amsterdam, and was first mentioned in 1645. By 1670, the city council granted a man referred to as "Jacob the Jew" (in Dutch) permission to build a Jewish cemetery, meaning that there were enough Jews living there to require a cemetery and other communal institutions. Land for 'The Jodenkerkhof' (Jews' cemetery) was purchased in 1679, near the Oldehove tower.
The first synagogue in the city was built in the 17th century, and was also used by the city's Catholics who were not allowed to build a house of worship of their own because of the Protestant city authorities. The Jewish community enjoyed generally good relations with authorities in the 18th century and continued to expand throughout the 18th and 19th centuries, reaching a peak population of 1,236 in 1860.
In 1901 the city's population was 32,203.
Leeuwarden, like the rest of the Netherlands, was occupied by German forces in 1940–1945. The occupation of Leeuwarden ended when elements of the Royal Canadian Dragoons seized the initiative and advanced into the heavily-defended city on 15 April 1945, ignoring direct orders to wait for supporting infantry. German forces had been driven out by the end of the next day. (The anniversary is marked by both the Dragoons and the city, by flying each others' flags every 15 April.)
Kneppelfreed () was an incident on 16 November 1951 in front of the courthouse at Wilhelminaplein (Wilhelmina Square), when the police used batons against Frisian language activists during a protest against the exclusive use of Dutch in the courts.Canon of Frisian History - Kneppelfreed 11en30.nu Retrieved 28 March 2018. A committee of inquiry recommended that the Frisian language should receive legal status as a minority language.
On 19 October 2013, a fire broke out in a clothes shop on a busy pedestrian street. The fire started late in the afternoon and burned through the night, destroying five shops and eleven flats. The only casualty was a 24-year-old man who was living in one of the flats. The birthplace of Mata Hari was at first thought to be destroyed, but survived, albeit with considerable smoke and water damage.
Heraldry The coat of arms of Leeuwarden is the official symbol of the municipality. It consists of a blue escutcheon, a golden lion, and a crown. The fact that Leeuwarden carries a lion in its seal seems logical, considering that "Leeuw" is Dutch for "Lion". However, it is very plausible the oldest name of the city conceals an indication of water rather than an animal, and some sources suggest that the lion may have only been added after the name became official. It is also possible the coat of arms was a gift to the city from the powerful Minnema family.
Geography
Leeuwarden is located centrally in Friesland. The military Leeuwarden Air Base lies northwest of the city. East of the city lies recreational area and nature reserve De Groene Ster. It contains the windmill Himriksmole, a golf course and AquaZoo Leeuwarden.AquaZoo Friesland Retrieved 2 April 2018.
Population centres On 1 January 2014 parts of the neighbouring Boarnsterhim municipality were added to Leeuwarden. On 1 January 2018 it was enlarged by Leeuwarderadeel and parts of former municipality of Littenseradiel. Dutch nameWest Frisian namePopulationLeeuwardenLjouwert92,146StiensStiens7,545GrouwGrou5,655GoutumGoutum2,945WargaWergea1,685IrnsumJirnsum1,360WirdumWurdum1,210MantgumMantgum1,175RoordahuizumReduzum1,125BritsumBritsum960WartenaWarten915 WytgaardWytgaard570WeidumWeidum570CornjumKoarnjum435OosterlittensEasterlittens435LekkumLekkum425HijumHijum415JorwerdJorwert335JelsumJelsum325HijlaardHilaard295Oude LeijeAlde Leie255SnakkerburenSnakkerbuorren225FinkumFeinsum205BaardBaard185HempensHimpens155JellumJellum150BeersBears125HuinsHúns115IdaardIdaerd80FriensFriens80SwichumSwichum50WarstiensWarstiens35AegumEagum35MiedumMiedum30LionsLeons26TeernsTearns16Total122,293Source: Statistics NetherlandsKerncijfers wijken en buurten 2017 [Key figures for neighbourhoods], CBS Statline (in Dutch) CBS 2 Februari 2018 . Retrieved on 1 March 2018.Bevolkingsontwikkeling; regio per maand , [Population growth; regions per month], CBS Statline (in Dutch) CBS 28 Februari 2018 . Retrieved on 1 March 2018.
Hamlets The hamlets within the municipality are: Abbenwier, Angwier, Baarderbuorren, Bartlehiem (partially), De Him, De Hoek, De Trije Romers, Domwier, Finsterbuorren, Fûns, Groote Bontekoe, Goatum, Hesens, Hoarne, Hoptille, It Hoflân, It Wiel, Marwert, Midsbuorren, Narderbuorren, Noardein, Oude Schouw (partially), Poelhuzen, Rewert (partially), Skillaerd, Skrins, Suderbuorren, Suorein, Tichelwurk, Truerd, Tsienzerbuorren, Tsjaard, Tsjeintgum, Vierhuis, Vrouwbuurtstermolen (partially), Wammert and Wieuwens
Climate
Demographics As of 2020, Leeuwarden had a total population of 124,084.
Inhabitants by origin 2020Numbers%Dutch natives102,09982.2%Western migration background9,7457.8%Non-Western migration background12,2409.8%Indonesia2,2761.83%Netherlands Antilles and Aruba1,5891.28%Suriname1,4831.19%Morocco1,0810.87%Turkey5470.4%Total124,084100%
Culture Museums
Museums in the city of Leeuwarden: Fries Museum. An art, culture and history museum.Tresoar , Tresoar. Retrieved on 28 February 2018. The building (2013) was designed by Hubert-Jan Henket. Fries Verzetsmuseum, a museum that documents the impact of World War II on Friesland.Fries Verzetsmuseum, Fries Verzetsmuseum. Retrieved on 28 February 2018. The museum is part of the Fries Museum. Princessehof Ceramics Museum,Princessehof , Princessehof Ceramics Museum. Retrieved on 28 February 2018. a ceramics museum. Pier Pander Museum, an art museum dedicated to the works of sculptor Pier Pander. Natuurmuseum Fryslân, Natuurmuseum Fryslân , Natuurmuseum Fryslân. Retrieved on 28 February 2018. a natural history museum. The Other Museum. Collections: old-timers, model trains, lace and photography, radio and Meccano.The Other Museum . Retrieved 6 March 2018. Tresoar, a historical centre and museum with archives about Friesland. Fries Landbouwmuseum, an agricultural museum.Fries Landbouwmuseum . Retrieved 14 January 2020.
Architecture There are over 800 Rijksmonuments (national heritage sites) in the municipality of Leeuwarden.Monumentenregister , Official database of heritage sites 1 January 2018 . Retrieved on 1 March 2018. The Oldehove, a leaning unfinished church tower, is a symbol of the city. Other well-known buildings in the city centre include the Kanselarij (former chancellery), the Stadhouderlijk Hof (former residence of the stadtholders of Friesland), the city hall (1715), the Waag (old weigh house), the Saint Boniface church (an important part of the neogothic movement) and the Centraal Apotheek, a pharmacy in the Art Nouveau style. The Blokhuispoort is a former prison that has been transformed into a public library, hostel and restaurant.
The Froskepôlemolen (built in 1896), is the last surviving windmill to have stood in Leeuwarden. The remains of the Cammingha-Buurstermolen were demolished in 2000. The Slauerhoffbrug is a fully automatic bascule bridge named after the poet Jan Jacob Slauerhoff. It uses two arms to swing a section of road in and out of place within the road itself. This movable bridge is also known as the 'Flying' Drawbridge.
The tallest building in the city is the Achmeatoren (Achmea insurance tower), built in 2001 and designed by Abe Bonnema – who also designed the second-tallest building, Averotoren at .
Cultural events and festivals