Clothing in ancient Greece refers to clothing starting from the Aegean bronze age (3000 BCE) to the Hellenistic period (31 BCE). Clothing in ancient Greece included a wide variety of styles but primarily consisted of the chiton, peplos, himation, and chlamys. Ancient Greek civilians typically wore two pieces of clothing draped about the body: an undergarment ( : chitōn or : péplos) and a cloak ( : himátion or : chlamýs). The people of ancient Greece had many factors (political, economic, social, and cultural) that determined what they wore and when they wore it.
Clothes were quite simple, draped, loose-fitting and free-flowing. Customarily, clothing was homemade and cut to various lengths of rectangular linen or wool fabric with minimal cutting or sewing, and secured with ornamental clasps or pins, and a belt, or girdle (: zōnē). Pieces were generally interchangeable between men and women.Adkins, Lesley, and Roy Adkins. Handbook to Life in Ancient Greece. New York: Facts On File, 1997. Print. However, women usually wore their robes to their ankles while men generally wore theirs to their knees depending on the occasion and circumstance. Additionally, clothing often served many purposes other than just being used as clothes such as bedding or a shroud.
In ancient Greece the terms ἀκεστής (male) and ἀκέστρια (female) were used for people who patched and restored clothing.Harry Thurston Peck, Harpers Dictionary of Classical Antiquities (1898), Sartor
The shoemakers had two kind of knives for cutting leather, the σμίλη or σμιλίον, which has a straight blade and the τομεὺς or περιτομεύς, which had a crescent shaped blade.A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities (1890), Scalprum
Textiles Small fragments of textiles have been found from this period at archaeological sites across Greece. These found textiles, along with literary descriptions, artistic depictions, modern ethnography, and experimental archaeology, have led to a greater understanding of ancient Greek textiles. Clothes in ancient Greece were mainly homemade or locally made.[ Linen was the most common fabric worn by both sexes until it was rejected by the men for more 'moderate clothes', as those worn by the Spartans. Wool was worn because of its warmth and ability to be dyed, unlike linen. Silk was also used for the production of clothing, though for ceremonial purposes by the wealthy. In Aristotle's The History of Animals, Aristotle talks about the collection of caterpillar cocoons to be used to create silk. There is a lot of writing from ancient Greece discussing the use of silk because it was nearly transparent, revealing the body of the person wearing it, and, therefore, perfect for women to wear. Sindon (σινδών) was a fine, lightweight cloth used for summer clothing.Harry Thurston Peck, Harpers Dictionary of Classical Antiquities (1898), SindonHenry George Liddell, Robert Scott, An Intermediate Greek-English Lexicon, Sindon
Amorgina (τὰ Ἀμόργινα; singular: ἈμόργινονSuda, alpha, 1625), were fine, muslin-like fabrics made from amorgis (ἀμοργίς), a particular type of flax. This flax, named after the island of Amorgos, but was also grown in other regions. The fabrics produced from it were highly prized for their fine texture, being even finer than byssos (βύσσος; usually applied to linen, but sometimes to very fine cotton) and karpasos (κάρπασος; cotton (Strabo even applies it to silk)). These fabrics were almost transparent and very costly, as noted in various ancient texts. The use of the adjective ἀμοργινὸς (amorginos) in reference to these fabrics can sometimes cause confusion, as it is not always clear whether the term refers to the island of Amorgos or the flax itself.A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities (1890), Amorgina
Cilicia (Κιλίκια) was called a coarse, thick cloth woven from the hair of Cilician goats, valued for its toughness and density. It was used both for garments and for protective screens in military contexts, where it could resist arrows and fire, and later became known in Latin as cilicium, the rough material used for hairshirts.Suda, epsilon, 52Suda, kappa, 1605Suda, kappa, 1607
Production process In the production of textiles, upright warp-weighted loom were used to weave clothing in Ancient Greece.
These looms had vertical threads or warps that were held down by loom weights. The use of looms can be seen in Homer's Odyssey when Hermes comes across Calypso weaving on a loom. Another example of the loom in Homer's Odyssey can be seen when Odysseus comes across Circe for the first time. The use of looms can also be seen being depicted on ancient Greek pottery.
Color and decoration Clothing in ancient Greece has been found to be quite colorful with a wide variety of hues. Colors found to be used include black, red, yellow, blue, green, and purple. Yellow dyed clothing has been found to be associated with a woman's life cycle. The elite typically wore purple as a sign of wealth and money as it was the most expensive dye due to the difficulty in acquiring it. The ancient Greeks also embroidered designs into their clothes as a form of decoration.Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology. Oxbow Books. 2014. p. 132. . The designs embroidered included representations of florals patterns and geometric patterns as well intricate scenes from Greek stories. An example of this embroidery can be seen in Homer's Iliad where Helen is described as wearing a purple textile on which she embroidered a scene of Trojans in battle.
There was the proverbial phrase Θετταλικαὶ πτέρυγες, meaning Thessalian wings, because the Thessalian cloaks had a small flap in each side which resemble wings.Suda, theta, 290
Styles of clothing The epiblema (ἐπίβλημα), periblema (περίβλημα), amfelone (ἀμφελόνη) were general terms for the outer clothing while the endyma (ἔνδυμα) was most often applied to the underclothing. The lope (λώπη) and lopos (λῶπος) were also general terms referring to the mantle. Speiron (σπεῖρον) was a term referring to a piece of cloth, garment or ragged fabric.Suda, SpeirouLogeion dictionaries, SpeironAncient Greek & Latin Dictionaries, Speiron
Hemipharion (Ἡμιφάριον) was the half of an outer-garment, but the spelling of this rare and late noun varies across lexicons, with some offering hemipharion, while others suggest hemiphorion (ἡμιφόριον) or hemiphoreion (ἡμιφόρειον), yet none can settle on a definitive form.Suda, eta, 355
Paryfi (παρυφή), was the border of a tunic or a scarf, primarily in women's clothing.A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities (1890), Limbus
Doriazein (Δωριάζειν), literally meaning "to dress like a Dorian girl," was a phrase used to describe the practice of being half-naked. This stemmed from the Dorian custom where girls would reveal their bodies at the side, as they typically wore chitons without girdles. In Sparta, however, it was not uncommon even for maidens to appear completely naked. This is how the Suda describes it.Suda, Delta, 1458
In addition to tunics that had sleeves sewn onto them and were known as chiridota, sleeves were also worn as separate garments, not attached to the tunic.A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities (1890), Manica
The poderes or poderis (ποδήρης) is described as a long garment reaching down to the ankles.Charlton T. Lewis, Charles Short, A Latin Dictionary, PoderesSuda, pi, 1846
Ζῶσμα φατεινόν and ζῶμα φαεῖνον were brightly-colored garments, their name coming from the verb ζώννυμαι ("to gird"). Some sources identify them with a tunic (χιτῶνα), others with a corslet (θώρακα) and others treat them strictly as a girdle or sash (ζῶσμα). Roman light-armed troops each wore a surcoat (ἐφαπτίδα) and kilts (ζώματα) around the thighs.Suda, zwsma fateinon
Staple garments Chiton
The chiton (plural: chitones) was a garment of light linen consisting of sleeves and long hemline. It consisted of a wide, rectangular tube of material secured along the shoulders and lower arms by a series of fasteners.Garland, Robert. Daily Life of the Ancient Greeks. Westport, Conn: Greenwood Press, 2009. Print. The chiton was commonly worn by both men and women but the time period in which each did so depended. Chitons typically fell to the ankles of the wearer, but shorter chitons were sometimes worn during vigorous activities by athletes, warriors, or slaves.
Often excess fabric would be pulled over a girdle, or belt, which was fastened around the waist (see kolpos). To deal with the bulk sometimes a strap, or anamaschalister was worn around the neck, brought under the armpits, crossed in the back, and tied in the front. A himation, or cloak, could be worn over top of the chiton.
Διαφανῆ χιτώνια, means "see-through, thin chitons", were garments through which women's bodies were visible.Suda, diafanh xitwnia
Chlamys
The chlamys was a seamless rectangle of woolen material worn by men for military or hunting purposes. It was worn as a cloak and fastened at the right shoulder with a brooch or button.
The chlamys was typical Greek military attire from the 5th to the 3rd century BC. It is thought that the chlamys could ward against light attacks in war.
The chlamys went on to become popular in the Byzantine Empire by the high class and wealthy.
Himation
The himation was a simple wool outer garment worn over the peplos or chiton by both men and women. It consisted of heavy rectangular material, passing under the left arm and secured at the right shoulder. The himation could also be worn over both shoulders. Women can be seen wearing the himation over their head in depictions of marriages and funerals in art. Men and boys can also be seen depicted in art as wearing solely the himation with no other clothing. A more voluminous himation was worn in cold weather. The himation is referenced as being worn by Socrates in Plato's Republic.
Thoimation (Θοιμάτιον) was a contracted or colloquial form of himation.Suda, Thoimation
Peplos
The peplos was a rectangular piece of woollen garment that was pinned at both shoulders leaving the cloth open down one side which fell down around the body. The top third of the cloth was folded over to create an over-fold. A girdle or belt was used to fasten the folds at the waist and could be worn over or under the over-fold. The overfold was called apoptygma (ἀπόπτυγμα).Perseus Encyclopedia, Apoptygma Variations of the peplos were worn by women in many periods such as the archaic, early classical, and classical periods of ancient Greece.
Other garments Allix Allix (Ἄλλικα) and Gallix (Γάλλικά) was a chlamys, according to Thessalians, which was fastened with gilt brooches.Suda, alpha, 1224
Ampechone Ampechone (ἀμπεχόνη, ἀμπέχονον, ἀμπεχόνιον), was a shawl or scarf worn by women over the chiton or inner garment.A Dictionary of Greek and Roman Antiquities (1890)William Smith, LLD, William Wayte, G. E. Marindin, Ed., AmpechoneHenry George Liddell, Robert Scott, An Intermediate Greek-English Lexicon, AmpechoneHarry Thurston Peck, Harpers Dictionary of Classical Antiquities (1898), Ampechone
Amphimaschalos Amphimaschalos (Ἀμφιμάσχαλος), a specific type of chiton that was wider. It extended over the shoulders and arms, covering the armpits (μασχάλαι). The name amphimaschalos (meaning "double-armholed" or "double-armholer") was misunderstood by later grammarians (e.g. Suda), who mistakenly believed it referred to a two-sleeved chiton. This misunderstanding led them to create the term heteromaschalos (ἑτερομάσχαλος) for a one-sleeved chiton, while the actual distinction for the ancient Greeks should have been between the amphimaschalos and exomis (one-sleeve garment, see the exomis section below).Real-Encyclopädie der classischen Alterthumswissenschaft, Ἀμφιμάσχαλος
Aristophanes, uses it mockingly or evaluatively, implying that a "double-armholer" was a garment of higher status or refinement, something not granted to everyone.[Suda, alpha, 1744 ]
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