Bovet Fleurier SA is a Swiss brand of luxury watchmakers chartered 1 May 1822 in London, United Kingdom by Édouard Bovet. It is most noted for its pocket watches manufactured for the Chinese market in the 19th century. Today it produces high-end artistic watches (priced between US$18,000 and $2.5 million) with a style that references its history.
The company is known for its high-quality dials (such as the Fleurier Miniature Painting models), engraving and its seven-day tourbillon.Bovet Fleurier, SA. Bovet 1822 . Accessed July 5, 2008. The original Bovet watches were also among the first to emphasize the beauty of their movements with skeletonized views and highly decorative movements.Vince Ho. June 10, 1998. The Chinese Market Watch . Accessed July 5, 2008. Bovet watches were also among the first to include a second hand while the company has a tradition of employing women artisans, which is rare for traditional watch making companies in Europe.American Watch Guild. Bovet . Accessed July 5, 2008. Pascal Raffy is the current owner.Horomundi. The Dimier Watch Launch Party in NY with Pascal Raffy. December 18, 2007. Accessed July 5, 2008.
History
Fleurier, home of Bovet Watch making was introduced to Fleurier by Daniel-Jean-Jacques-Henri Vaucher, an apprentice of Daniel Jeanrichard, in 1730. At the time the area was known for metal working, a natural result of the iron deposits discovered locally in the 15th century. Watchmaking flourished in and around Fleurier during the late 18th century but because production was sold on credit for the international markets, prices were undercut and economic destabilization brought about by the Napoleonic Wars caused watch making in the area to decrease significantly.Christophe Roulet. 2007. Bovet, a Pioneer on the Road to China . Le Journal de law Haute Horlogerie. Accessed July 5, 2008. By the mid-19th century, Fleurier produced watches almost exclusively for the Chinese market while the municipality's current renown as a watch making centre is attributed to Bovet watches.Carlos Perez. November 25, 2002. Timezone.com . Accessed July 5, 2008.
The founder Édouard Bovet (1797–1849) was the son of the watchmaker Jean-Frédéric Bovet. He studied the art with his father in Fleurier, but in 1814 left home for political reasons with two of his brothers, Alphonse and Frédéric, to study watch making in London. After studying in the city for a few years with the firm of Messrs. Ilbery & Magniac, Magniac sent Bovet to Canton, China in 1818. Almost as soon as he arrived he was able to sell four of his watches for the equivalent of US$1 million in 2008 currency.Alan Downing and Thierry Oulevay. Background to Bovet . Accessed July 5, 2008.
The 19th century: Founding of the company and China
The original Bovet company was founded in London in 1822 by Édouard Bovet for the purposes of manufacturing watches exclusively for the Chinese market.Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie. Bovet Fleurier. Accessed July 5, 2008. Some watch historians believe that the company was established in London due to the ease of shipping watches to China on the frequent ships of the East India Company. Édouard's brothers, Alphonse and Frédéric, stayed in London to manage shipping; another brother, Charles-Henri, managed manufacturing in Fleurier, while Édouard developed the market in Canton.
Bovet was neither the first nor the last company to target the Chinese watch market. They shared it with Ilbery, Jaques Ullmann, and Vacheron Constantin, among others. Édouard Bovet discovered the potential of the Chinese market as a student of Ilbery in London, from whom he borrowed some design ideas. While from 1820 onwards Vacheron Constantin dominated the market in imperial northern China, Bovet remained market leader in the more populous south of the country. Although the 19th-century Chinese watch market was predated by a few Jesuit watch makers as early as the 15th century, by the early 19th century watch making in China had become of such a low quality that the new European watches were quickly appreciated.Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie. March 30, 2007. The Emperors New Clocks. Accessed July 5, 2008.
Notwithstanding their high price, the popularity of Bovet watches in China meant that the company had to contract with other Swiss manufacturers such as Guinand to help them meet demand. Even though Juvet Fleurier also sold pieces in China, it was not uncommon to see Bovet pieces with a Juvet movement. In the 1830s Bovet established a manufacturing facility in Canton, but because of restrictions resulting from the Opium Wars, they had to close that facility and open a smaller one in Macau. It was about this time that the company created a Chinese name to more effectively market to the middle class. The Chinese name for Bovet, "Bo Wei", became a common noun for watches in China for many years.Robbreport.com. December 2007. "21 Ultimate Gifts: Times Two" Accessed December 24, 2024.
The Chinese watch market collapsed around 1855 due to competition from France and the United States along with the tremendous number of Chinese-made counterfeits. By 1864 problems caused by the Opium War caused the Bovet family to sell their interest in the company. They sold the company to their manufacturing inspectors in Fleurier, Jules Jequier and Ernest Bobillier, who were soon joined by Ami Leuba.
As of 2013, watches made for the Chinese market by this manufacturer and others such as William Ilbery of London command high prices as collectable art objects.
Into the 20th century: Beyond China After the virtual closure of the Chinese market, Bovet continued to manufacture pocket watches, though at a much reduced rate, and would frequently offer its manufacturing services on a contract basis to other watch companies. The Landry Frères purchased Bovet in 1888 but did not invest in it.Wristwatch Resource. Watch Companies. Accessed July 5, 2008, archive url inserted February 12, 2009. In 1901, the Bovet trademark was sold at auction in Paris to Cesar and Charles Leuba, sons of Ami Leuba. Jacques Ullmann and Co., another successful produce of watches for the Chinese market, purchased the Bovet brand in 1918. After Jacques Ullmann went out of business in 1932, the Bovet name was acquired by Albert and Jean Bovet, who were successful watch makers and registered several patents for chronographs, such as the mono rattrapante: a device that would pause the second hand for a reading while the mechanism continued to run. The company Favre-Leuba purchased the name and manufacturing facilities from the Bovet brothers in 1948.
Favre-Leuba stopped producing Bovet branded watches in 1950, and then only manufactured its own branded watches from the facilities it acquired from the Bovet brothers. Favre-Leuba sold the Bovet brand and facilities in 1966 to a cooperative of individual watch makers.
The modern company In 1989, Parmigiani Fleurier purchased Bovet and registered the trademark for "all watchmaking products, mechanical watches and clocks and naval instruments, of Swiss origin", but no Bovet branded timepieces were produced. Parmigiani sold Bovet in 1990 to investors, and Bovet Fleurier SA was established. However, no watches were actually manufactured by the company until after it was acquired by Roger Guye and Thierry Oulevay in 1994, who opened a branch office in Geneva.Carlos Perez. November 25, 2002. Timezone.com . Accessed July 5, 2008. and Alan Downing and Thierry Oulevay. Background to Bovet . Accessed July 5, 2008.
The company was acquired by Pascal Raffy, its current president, on 6 February 2001. In June 2006, Raffy purchased several manufacturing structures, such as the STT group, which produced complicated watch movements, in order to obtain complete control over the quality of all phases of the watch crafting process. STT was renamed Dimier 1738 Manufacture de Haute Horlogerie Artisanale and went into a full restructuring over the next two years in order to bring the standards up to those of Bovet. The second purchase was a dial and precious gem setting manufacture located in Plan-les-Ouates in Geneva. The name was changed also from Valor, Lopez et Villa to Dimier 1738 Manufacture Artisanale de Cadrans et de Sertissages. With the same philosophy as the movement factory, Raffy turned this factory into an artisan center providing dials for Bovet, Dimier's watch brand, and a select group of clients in luxury watchmaking. There are currently about 150 employees of Bovet Fleurier SA and the Dimier manufactures, and the company only produces 800 watches a year.Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH. Bovet – A Genuine Manufacture. Swiss Watch News, August 30, 2006. Accessed June 5, 2008. Some modern Bovet watches are fitted with mechanisms manufactured by Vaucher Manufacture, a company that also supplied watches to the Chinese market in the 19th century.Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry FH. Parmigiani and Vaucher Manufacture – Vertical Integration a Step Closer. Swiss Watch News, 20 November 2003. Accessed 5 June 2008. Bovet spends very little to advertise and prefers to have private salons for clients instead of attending public fairs.QP Magazine. Bovet Eastern Promise . Accessed July 5, 2008. About a third of the watches it manufactures are one-of-a-kind pieces that are made to order.American Watch Guild. Bovet . Accessed July 5, 2008. and Foundation de la Haute Horlogerie. Bovet Fleurier. Accessed July 5, 2008.
Bovet has manufactured dashboard clocks for Rolls-Royce cars including the Rolls-Royce Boat Tail.https://www.bovet.com/rolls-royce/
Watches
Legacy of the Bovet style Bovet watches include much artistic detail, and the company gives the artisans a great deal of independence in creating the elements of the watches, thus encouraging creativity. The Chinese watches were originally sold in pairs in a mahogany box, both for good luck and so that the user would have a back-up watch if one needed repair, as repairs would sometimes take more than six months to complete. The design characteristics of the watch emphasized the elements which appealed to Chinese consumers.
One of these appealing characteristics was the mechanics of clocks and watches, and so Bovet emphasized the beauty of the movements with its skeletonized views and highly decorative movements, the first watches to emphasize these characteristics in this way. For the same reason the watches were also among the first to include a second-hand. The enamel decorations were usually of European scenes or plant life, which made the watches more appealing to the Chinese consumers, since such images were as exotic to them as the European-made watches themselves.
The original Chinese Bovet watches often fetch more than US$300,000 for the most decorative models,The Watch Museum. Bovet . Accessed July 5, 2008. and Antiquorum Online. Press Release. Accessed July 5, 2008. and more than $50,000 for the simpler ones.Antiquorum. 2006. Important Collector’s Watches . Accessed July 5, 2008. The simplest metal Chinese watches in moderate condition are usually sold for at least $500.Jones & Horan Auction Team. Lots 298-358 . Accessed July 5, 2008. Replicas have become increasingly common on the Internet, and while some are the counterfeits produced in China in the 19th century, some more modern counterfeits have also been seen, particularly in markets in Europe and on eBay.Zoekwekker.be. zakhorloge spillegang. (in Dutch) Accessed July 7, 2008.
The chronographs