The Tibetan Plateau, also known as the Qinghai–Tibet Plateau, Qingzang Plateau, is a vast elevated plateau located at the intersection of Central, South, and East Asia.Multiple sources: Illustrated Atlas of the World (1986) Rand McNally & Company. pp. 164–65 Atlas of World History (1998 ) HarperCollins. p. 39
Hopkirk 1983, p. 1 Geographically, Tibet is located to the north of the Himalayas and the Indian subcontinent, and to the south of the Tarim Basin and the Mongolian Plateau. Geopolitically, it covers most of the Tibet Autonomous Region, most of Qinghai, the western half of Sichuan, southern Gansu Province, southern Xinjiang Province in Western China, Bhutan, the Indian regions of Ladakh and Lahaul and Spiti (Himachal Pradesh) as well as Gilgit-Baltistan in Pakistan, northwestern Nepal, eastern Tajikistan and southern Kyrgyzstan.
It stretches approximately north to south and east to west. It is the world's largest and highest plateau above sea level, with an area of . With an average elevation exceeding and being surrounded by imposing mountain ranges that harbor the world's two highest summits, Mount Everest and K2, the Tibetan Plateau is often referred to as "the Roof of the World".
The plateau contains the headwaters of most of the streams in surrounding regions. This includes the three longest rivers in Asia (the Yellow, Yangtze, and Mekong). Its tens of thousands of glaciers and other geographical and ecological features serve as a natural "water tower", storing water and regulating river flow. It is sometimes termed the Third Pole because its ice fields contain the largest reserve of fresh water outside the polar regions. The impact of climate change on the Tibetan Plateau is of ongoing scientific interest.
Description The Tibetan Plateau is surrounded by the massive mountain ranges of high-mountain Asia. The plateau is bordered to the south by the inner Himalayan range, to the north by the Kunlun Mountains which separate it from the Tarim Basin, and to the northeast by the Qilian Mountains, which separate it from the Hexi Corridor and Gobi Desert. To the east and southeast are the Salween, Mekong, and Yangtze rivers in northwest Yunnan, western Sichuan, and southwest Qinghai. In the west, the rugged Karakoram range of northern Kashmir curves around the plateau's edge. The Indus River originates in the western Tibetan Plateau in the vicinity of Lake Manasarovar.
The plateau is bounded in the north by a broad escarpment, formed largely by the Altyn Tagh range, where the terrain drops from a plateau interior generally above to the adjacent Tarim Basin at around . A range of mountains runs along the escarpment. About halfway across the Tarim Basin the bounding range becomes the Altyn-Tagh, and the Kunluns, by convention, continue somewhat to the south. In the 'V' formed by this split is the western part of the Qaidam Basin. The Altyn-Tagh ends near the Dangjin pass on the Dunhuang–Golmud road. To the west are short ranges called the Danghe, Yema, Shule, and Tulai Nanshans. The easternmost range is the Qilian Mountains. The line of mountains continues east of the plateau as the Qinling, which forms a major physical and climatic divide between North China and South China, separating the Loess Plateau and Wei River valley to the north from the Han River valley and the Sichuan Basin to the south. North of the mountains runs the Gansu or Hexi Corridor which was the main silk-road route from China proper to the west.
The plateau is a high-altitude arid steppe interspersed with mountain ranges and large brackish lakes. The southern and eastern edges of the steppe have grasslands that can sustainably support populations of nomadic herdsmen, although frost occurs for six months of the year. Proceeding to the north and northwest, the plateau becomes progressively higher, colder, and drier; on this side of the plateau, annual precipitation is only , comparable to a polar desert, and permafrost is extensive. In the remote Changtang region in the northwestern part of the plateau, the average altitude exceeds and winter temperatures frequently fall below ; the region is unsuitable for permanent settlement, and its only population consists of nomadic herders found in its southern part.
Geology and geological history
The geological history of the Tibetan Plateau is closely related to that of the Himalayas. The Himalayas belong to the Alpine orogeny and are among the younger mountain ranges on the planet, consisting mostly of uplifted sedimentary and metamorphic rock. Their formation is a result of a continental collision or orogeny along the convergent boundary between the Indo-Australian plate and the Eurasian plate.
India began drifting northward from Gondwana in the Upper Cretaceous, about 70 million years ago (Mya), moving at about per year; its collision with the Eurasian plate is most commonly dated to around 55–50 Mya, near the Paleocene–Eocene boundary, though the exact timing remains debated. By about 50 Mya, the fast-moving Indo-Australian plate had completely closed the Tethys Ocean, the existence of which has been determined by sedimentary rocks settled on the ocean floor and the volcanoes that fringed its edges. Since these sediments were light, they crumpled into mountain ranges rather than sinking to the floor. During this early stage of its formation in the Late Palaeogene, Tibet consisted of a deep valley bounded by multiple mountain ranges rather than the more topographically uniform elevated flatland that it is today. The Tibetan Plateau's mean elevation continued to vary since its initial uplift in the Eocene; isotopic records show the plateau's altitude was around 3,000 metres above sea level around the Oligocene–Miocene boundary and that it fell by 900 metres between 25.5 and 21.6 Mya, attributable to tectonic unroofing from east–west extension or to erosion from weathering. The plateau subsequently rose by 500 to 1,000 metres between 21.6 and 20.4 million years ago.
Palaeobotanical evidence indicates that the Nujiang Suture Zone and the Yarlung-Tsangpo Suture Zone remained tropical or subtropical lowlands until the late Oligocene or Early Miocene, enabling biotic interchange across Tibet. The age of east–west grabens in the Lhasa and Himalaya terranes suggests that the plateau's elevation was close to its modern altitude by around 14 to 8 Mya. Erosion rates in Tibet decreased significantly around 10 Mya. The Indo-Australian plate continues to be driven horizontally below the Tibetan Plateau, which forces the plateau to move upwards; the plateau is still rising at a rate of approximately per year (although erosion reduces the actual increase in height).
Much of the plateau is of relatively low relief. The cause of this is debated among geologists. Some argue that the plateau is an uplifted peneplain formed at low altitude, while others argue that the low relief stems from erosion and infill of topographic depressions that occurred at already high elevations. The current tectonics of the plateau are also debated. The best-regarded explanations are provided by the block model and the alternative continuum model. According to the former, the crust of the plateau is formed of several blocks with little internal deformation separated by major strike-slip faults. In the latter, the plateau is affected by distributed deformation resulting from flow within the crust.
Environment
The Tibetan Plateau supports a variety of ecosystems, most of them classified as montane grasslands. While parts of the plateau feature an alpine tundra-like environment, other areas feature monsoon-influenced shrublands and forests. Species diversity is generally reduced on the plateau due to the elevation and low precipitation. The plateau hosts the Tibetan wolf, and species of snow leopard, wild yak, wild ass, cranes, vultures, hawks, geese, snakes, and water buffalo. One notable animal is the high-altitude jumping spider that can live at elevations of over .
Ecoregions, as defined by the World Wide Fund for Nature, are as follows: The Pamir alpine desert and tundra covers the western end where it transitions to the Pamir Mountains The North Tibetan Plateau–Kunlun Mountains alpine desert covers the northwestern limits along the Kunlun Mountains The Karakoram–West Tibetan Plateau alpine steppe covers the westernmost parts and Ladakh The Northwestern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows covers the mountains bordering the extreme west The Central Tibetan Plateau alpine steppe covers most of the central portions and the eastern Changtang The Western Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows covers the southwestern plateau in the Garuda Valley region The Qaidam Basin semi-desert located in the Qaidam Basin in the north The Qilian Mountains subalpine meadows covering the Qilian Mountains in the northernmost portions The Qilian Mountains conifer forests covering parts of the mountain ranges in the northeast The Tibetan Plateau alpine shrublands and meadows covering a swath of the central and northeast The Yarlung Tsangpo arid steppe in the Yarlung Tsangpo river valley, where most of the permanent human population lives The Eastern Himalayan alpine shrub and meadows cover the south on the northern side of the Himalayas
The Southeast Tibet shrub and meadows cover the southeastern and eastern parts of the plateau and are generally rainier than the other high-altitude regions The Northeastern Himalayan subalpine conifer forests reach up mountain valleys in the south and contain some of the highest altitude forests in the world The Nujiang Lancang Gorge alpine conifer and mixed forests cover the mountain valleys that reach into the southeast The Hengduan Mountains subalpine conifer forests cover the southeasternmost mountain valleys The Qionglai–Minshan conifer forests cover the eastern edges
Human history
Archaic Denisovans lived on the plateau from around 200,000 to 40,000 years ago, according to a study published in Nature. Archaeological evidence suggests that the earliest human occupation of the plateau occurred between 30,000 and 40,000 years ago.Brantingham & Xing 2006.
Since the plateau's earliest settlement, Tibetan culture has adapted and flourished in the western, southern, and eastern regions. The Changtang is generally too high and cold to support permanent population. The Tibetan Empire existed from the 7th century to the 9th century AD. Nomadic pastoralism, once practiced widely across Asia and Africa, has persisted among these communities on the plateau. Pastoral nomads constitute about 40% of the ethnic Tibetan population. Nomadic peoples have adapted to the plateau's grasslands by raising livestock rather than crops, which are poorly suited to the terrain. Impact on other regions
Monsoons are caused by the different amplitudes of surface temperature seasonal cycles between land and oceans. This differential warming occurs because heating rates differ between land and water. Wind- and buoyancy-generated turbulence distributes ocean heat vertically through a "mixed layer" that may be 50 meters deep, whereas the land surface conducts heat slowly, with the seasonal signal penetrating only a meter or so. The specific heat capacity of liquid water is also significantly greater than that of most materials that make up land.