Gigha ( ; ; ) or the Isle of Gigha (and formerly Gigha Island) is an island off the west coast of Kintyre in Scotland. It forms part of Argyll and Bute and has a population of 187 people as of 2022. The climate is mild, with more sunshine hours than the Scottish average, and the soils are fertile. The main settlement is Ardminish.
Gigha has been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times. It may have had an important role during the Kingdom of Dalriada and is the ancestral home of Clan MacNeill. It fell under the control of the Norse and the Lords of the Isles before becoming incorporated into modern Scotland and saw a variety of conflicts during the medieval period.
The population of Gigha peaked at over 700 in the 18th century. During the 20th century the island had numerous owners, which caused various problems in developing the island. By the beginning of the 21st century, the population had fallen to 98. However, a "community buy-out" in 2002 has transformed the island, which now has a growing population and a variety of new commercial activities to complement farming and tourism.
Attractions include Achamore Gardens and the abundant wildlife, especially seabirds. There have been numerous shipwrecks on the surrounding rocks and skerries.
Etymology
PronunciationScots Gaelic: An Dubh SgeirPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: Buaidh no BàsPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: Cnoc HacoPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: Creag BhànPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: Creideas Dòchas is CarthannasPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: gamhainnPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: Gamhna GioghachPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: geodhaPronunciation:Scots Gaelic: GioghachPronunciation: The Hebrides have been occupied by the speakers of at least four languages since the Iron Age, and many of the names of these islands have more than one possible meaning as a result. Many modern authorities hold that the name "Gigha" is probably derived either from the Norse Guðey or from Gud-øy, meaning either "good island" or "God island".Murray (1977) pp. 115–16.Czerkawaska (2006) pp. 35–36. The Norse historical text Hákonar saga Hákonarsonar explicitly calls the island Guðey.
Despite this, Keay and Keay (1994) and Haswell-Smith (2004) suggest the Gaelic name is derived instead from Gjáey, meaning "island of the geo" or "cleft".Keay & Keay (1994) p. 423. However, Norse gjá normally shows up in Gaelic in the form of geodha. Czerkawaska (2006) also notes that the isle is called "Gug" in a charter of 1309 and also appears as "Gega" on some old maps and speculates that a possible pre-Norse derivation is from the Gaelic Sheela na Gig, a female fertility symbol.Czerkawaska (2006) pp. 35–37. This author accepts that the possibility of a connection with Sheela na Gig is "a remote and contentious one!" and also suggests "island of the good harbour" rather than simply "good island". Haswell-Smith (2004) also offers the possibility of Gydha's isle after the Norse female name.
A Gigha resident is a Gioghach, also nicknamed a gamhainn ("stirk"). Although the most widespread pronunciation of the Gaelic name Giogha is , the Southern dialects preserve the fricative: in KintyreHolmer, N. The Gaelic of Kintyre Dublin Institute for Advanced Studies, Dublin 1962, p.7 and in Argyllshire.Holmer, N. Studies on Argyllshire Gaelic K. Humnistiska Vetenskaps, Uppsala 1938, p.175
Geology The bedrock of Gigha is largely amphibolite, a meta igneous rock which was probably, before its metamorphism, one or more sills. Some areas, particularly along the east coast are formed from the Erins Quartzite, a metasedimentary rock of Neoproterozoic age (late Precambrian) which falls within the Crinan Subgroup of the Argyll Group, itself a part of the Dalradian sequence which forms most of the southern Highlands. This rock sequence also include pelites and semipelites. The amphibolite is cut by numerous broadly southeast–northwest aligned dykes of olivine-microgabbro dating from the Palaeogene period and forming a part of the ‘North Britain Palaeogene Dyke Suite’. Raised marine deposits cover parts of the island, a product of higher relative sea levels during the early Holocene.
Geography
Gigha lies off the coast of Kintyre and is long in a roughly north–south direction and a maximum of wide. The total area is and the highest elevation of Creag Bhàn reaches only . The rocky central spine is composed of epidiorite with basalt intrusions.Explorer 357: Kintyre North, Knapdale South & Isle of Gigha. (2001) Southampton. Ordnance Survey.
The main settlement is Ardminish which is on the south east coast and offers a small anchorage in the sheltered Ardminish Bay. Further to the north is Druimyeon Bay and beyond that West and East Tarbert Bays which (as their names imply) lie astride a small isthmus. There are various farms and associated buildings located throughout the island including Kinerarach and Tarbert in the north Ardailly in the west, where there are two holiday homes and a ruined watermill and North and South Druimachro on the east coast south of Ardmininsh.
The climate is mild with higher than average sunshine hours and minimum temperatures, and lower than average days of ground frost for Scotland.Haswell-Smith (2004) pp. 37–41. Annual rainfall is typically between ."1971–2000 mapped averages" Met Office. Retrieved 16 September 2008.
Surrounding islands Cara Island lies just offshore to the south, the smaller Craro Island lies to the west and Gigalum Island to the south east. A sandy spit connects Gigha to Eilean Garbh in the north-west. To the north are the rocks called An Dubh Sgeir (a common name meaning "black rock") and Gamhna Giogha. The Sound of Gigha separates Gigha and its attendant isles from mainland Kintyre.
To the west and north west respectively, are the two large islands of Islay and Jura. South west are Rathlin Island and the north of Ireland, which can be seen from Gigha on clear days.Murray (1966) p. 2. Between Jura and Gigha are the rocks of Na Cuiltean and Skervuile Lighthouse. Between Gigha and Port Ellen on Islay is the island of Texa. Eilean Mòr and Island of Danna are little further up the Argyll coast to the north.
There are also many small rocks and skerries (small rock islands) in the seas around Gigha. Asked by a tourist if he knew where they all were, local resident Willie McSporran (see below) replied "No, but I know where they aren't and that's good enough for me".Czerkawaska (2006) p. 189.
History Gigha has been inhabited continuously since prehistoric times, and there are several standing stones on the island. There are many other archaeological sites, including cairns, duns and an ogham stone near to Kilchattan, which has not been deciphered.It is badly weathered and the etching is probably a name on a tombstone. Various attempts have been made to decipher it e.g. "Vicula Maq Comgini" (Fiacal, son of Coemgen). See Czerkawaska (2006) p. 99.
In the Early Historic Period The domain of the Cenél nGabraín appears to have been centred on Kintyre and Knapdale and may have included Arran, Jura and Gigha. The title king of Kintyre is used of a number of presumed kings of the Cenél nGabrain.Thomson (1994) p. 40 Cenél nGabrainGrimble (1985) p. 9 Chap. 2 Isles of the Saints This would have made Gigha part of Dalriada.
There is some evidence to show that the island might have been the seat of power for Conall mac Comgall, King of Dalriada, in the mid to late 6th century. The Annals of Tigernach refer to a Battle of Delgon (later Cindeglen) in 574, and this has been identified as taking place on Gigha, then referred to as Eilean da Ghallagan,McLeod, John "Remarks on the Supposed Site of Delgon or Cindelgen, the Seat of Connal, King of Dalriada, AD 563." (December 1983) (pdf) Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland. Retrieved 18 March 2007. The Scottish antiquarian W.F. Skene originally identified this battle site as being in west Knapdale. He later revised his opinion on evidence presented to him by the archaeologist Hugh Maclean of Tarbet.Innes, C. (1832)"Syllabus of Scottish Cartularies" (pdf) Retrieved 28 June 2007. although other sources believe the battle took place in Kintyre.Onomasticon Godelicum. CELT/Documents of Ireland
Norse period
Nearby Islay was a centre for Norse control over the Hebrides, and Gigha was later part of the Kingdom of the Isles. The island's name appears to be Norse in origin, although its meaning is disputed, and there are several other Norse placenames in the vicinity, such as Gigalum (i.e. "Gigha – holm") and Cnoc Haco (possibly "Haakon's hill").Czerkawaska (2006) pp. 115–16.
In 1849, a Viking grave was found at East Tarbert Bay, which revealed a number of artefacts, including a bronze weighing balance dated to the 10th century.Czerkawaska (2006) p. 113.
Prior to the Battle of Largs, Haakon IV of Norway is said to have visited the island. According to Hákonar saga Hákonarsonar ("The Saga of Haakon Haakonsson") written by Icelander Sturla Þórðarson in the 1260s:
King Haco sailed afterwards south to Guðey before Kintyre where he anchored. There King John met him; he came in the ship with Bishop Thorgil. King Haco desired him to follow his banner as he should do. But King John excused himself. He said he had sworn an oath to the Scottish King, and held of him more lands than of the Norwegian Monarch; he therefore entreated King Haco to dispose of all those estates which he had conferred upon him. King Haco kept him with him some time, and endeavoured to incline his mind to fidelity. Many laid imputations to his charge. King Haco indeed had before received bad accounts of him from the Hebrides; for John Langlife-son came to the King, while he was sailing west from Shetland, and told him the news that John King of the Hebrides, breaking his faith, had turned to the Scottish Monarch. King Haco, however, would not believe this till he had found it so.
During King Haco's stay at Guðey an Abbot of a monastery of Greyfriars waited on him, begging protection for their dwelling, and Holy Church: and this the King granted them in writing.
Friar Simon had lain sick for some time. He died at Guðey. His corpse was afterwards carried up to Kintire where the Greyfriars interred him in their Church. They spread a fringed pall over his grave, and called him a Saint."The Norwegian account of Haco's expedition against Scotland, A.D. MCCLXIII." Project Gutenberg. Retrieved 1 October 2008.
John of Islay After Edward Balliol's coup against the Bruce regime in 1333, he attempted to court John of Islay, Lord of the Isles. In 1336, Edward confirmed the territories which the Islay lords had acquired in the days of Robert I and awarded John the lands of Kintyre, Knapdale, Gigha, Colonsay, Mull, Skye, Lewis, and Morvern, previously held by magnates still loyal to the Bruces. John, however, never provided Edward with real assistance. Although Balliol's deposition and the restoration of the House of Bruce meant that the grants made to John were void, his pre-1336 possessions were confirmed by King David II in 1343. Moreover, in 1346, John inherited the great Lordship of Garmoran through his brother-in-law Raghnall MacRuaridh. This meant that John's dominions now included all of the Hebrides except Skye, and all of the western seaboard from Morvern to Loch Hourn.Oram, Richard "The Lordship of the Isles". p. 124; Michael Brown (2004) The Wars of Scotland. Edinburgh. p. 271.
Clan MacNeill
Gigha is the ancestral home of the Clan MacNeill, which possesses its own tartan and Clan badge, both distinctly different from those of the larger and better known Clan MacNeil of Barra (spelt with one "l" in English) who share the same Chief."MacNeill of Colonsay" ScotClans. Retrieved 6 April 2007.