Caunes-Minervois is a small medieval town and commune in the Aude department in the Occitanie region in southern France. It is known particularly for its ancient Abbey, dating from the eighth century, and the outstanding red marble that has been quarried locally from Roman times. The name may derive from the ancient local Occitan word for cave, "cauna", of which there are a number in the immediate area.
Caunes is also in the Minervois, a designated wine growing region with AOC status but with an ancient heritage. The name derives from the ancient regional capital of Minerve, some 20 km east of Caunes, itself named for the Roman Goddess Minerva. The Romans came through here, settling and introducing vines & olives in the region. Minervois Vignerons have been dynamic in changing the perception of the world towards wine from the south of France, developing quality products and experimenting with both old and new grape varieties and techniques.Strang, P. 2002. Languedoc-Roussillon: The Wines and Wine Makers. Mitchell Beazley, 2002.
The ruined castle (chateau) at Minerve is a site attracting many visitors due to the ongoing interest in Catharism and the Albigensian Crusade. Caunes lies in the northern part of the modern touristic region of the "Pays Cathare" – Cathar Country – which stretches here from the Pyrenees.
Geography and geology The town sits at the foot of the Montagne Noire which are themselves the southernmost extent of the Massif Central. The change in slope designates a change in geology from the predominantly metamorphic rocks of the nearby mountains to the alluvial deposits of the plains.
The settlement lies adjacent to the mountain river L’argent Double which can be a torrent after rain but usually has a gentle and semi-continuous flow, sometime disappearing completely below a bouldery riverbed. Highest flows are usually recorded in February falling away throughout the dry months. This river is a key attribute that lead to early settlement here, both in terms of the important pass created by its valley and the regular, sweet water supply. The river name l’Argent Double is purported to come from the Latin Argent meaning silver and Celtic dubrum, meaning water. Whether this refers to just the colour of a tumbling stream, the fact that the water is sweet (soft), or some other mineral content is not clear.
Figure 1. Map of the Montagne Noire. In the inset France is tan, the Massif Central is orange, and the Montagne Noire is purple (Roger, 2004).Roger, F., et al. 2004. Premiere datation U-Pb des orthogneiss oeilles de la zone axial de la Montagne noire (Sud du Massif central); nouveau temoins du magmatisme Ordovicien dans la chaine Varisque. Comptes Rendus de l’Academie de sciences. Geoscience, 366, 19-28
The geology of the area has attracted considerable study and is fundamental to the position of the town: the weakness in the rocks giving rise to the course of the river the mountain pass following the river the formation of the local marble through metamorphosis and the subsequent development of complex local soil types allowing for a variety of vineyard terroirs
On a larger scale, the Montagne Noir result from the tectonic movements of ancient plates, ultimately resulting in the upthrust of the Alps and the Pyrenees. These mountain building events are known as orogenic periods, often named after the principal mountain ranges or ancient tribal areas in which the early geological research was undertaken. The Montagne Noire result largely from what is known as the Variscan (or Hercynian) Orogeny.
The local geology is complex with evidence of very old rocks from the Precambrian period being distorted and overlain with ocean sediments, which in turn have been involved in massive tectonic events. The changes to sedimentary deposits due to intense pressure and temperature effects have given rise to metamorphic rocks such as schist, gneiss & the economically important marble.
Granite outcrops can also be found relatively close (10 km) to Caunes adding complexity to the geology. It is expected that groundwater percolating though the acidic granite provides much of the soft water to the l’Argent Double in an area where hard water is more usual.
South, away from the metamorphic rocks of the mountains yet in close proximity, lie almost unaffected limestones, sandstones, clays and other rock forms. These are mixed with more recent alluvial deposits from the Aude valley.Gèze, B. 1979. Languedoc méditerranéen, Montagne Noire, Guides géologiques régionaux. Masson.
Flora Much of the flora south of Caunes is dominated by vineyards. However, there are also numerous limestone ridges that cannot be economically cultivated. These areas are often wooded with pines, kermes (or holly) oak and have an understory of typical "garrigue" plants: lavender, sage, rosemary, thyme, cistus, and Artemisia etc.
The mountains immediately to the north of Caunes hold a wider variety of "maquis" flora, often in addition to the garrigue species: large semi-natural woodland areas comprising holm and pubescent oak, umbrella pine, juniper (Juniperus communis, Juniperus phoenicea and Juniperus oxycedrus – locally called ‘cade’ are each abundant), olive and almond.Dallman, P. 1998. Plant Life in the World's Mediterranean Climates: California, Chile, South Africa, Australia, and the Mediterranean Basin. University of California Press. Blamey, M. & Grey-Wilson, C. 2004. Wild Flowers of the Mediterranean: A Complete Guide to the Islands and Coastal Regions. A&C Black. The limestone encourages numerous other small plants such as various orchids, fritillaries and iris.
Marked walking trails with some informative interpretation boards originate in Caunes. These lead up onto the lower Montagne noire and pass through the typical varied and interesting scenery.
There is also a short botanical trail close by (6 km) on the ridge between Caunes and Felines Minervois.
History, proto-history, and pre-history
The whole of the southern France is rich in early signs of man. Early hunter-gatherer inhabitants would have made use of the many caves in limestones of the southern Montagne Noire. Their passage is now marked by hundreds of dolmens and menhirs throughout the area.Cleere, H. 2001. Southern France: An Oxford Archaeological Guide. Oxford University Press. Many of these have been or are in jeopardy of becoming lost to agriculture or neglect.
One of the closest is the large and well-preserved covered alley at Saint-Eugène, some 4 km south of Caunes. This and other ceremonial sites have funerary goods which show activity of trade across Europe.Scarre, C. 1991. Ancient France: Neolithic Societies and Their Landscapes, 6000-2000 BC. Éléments de pré et protohistoire européene: Hommages à Jacques-Pierre Millotte
In 1827 Paul Tournal, a local amateur archaeologist, found early human bones and other remains (about 6000 years old) in a cave near Bize Minervois, 20 km east of Caunes. Tournal went on to found the Commission Archéologique et Littéraire de Narbonne and was Secretary until he died.
There are signs of early semi-permanent settlements in the area, evidenced by archaeological finds throughout the Aude. The Aude river formed the basis of a major trade route (Aude-Garonne corridor) and a combination of the warm climate and water availability from the Montagne Noire allowed for settlement if not farming.
A number of oppida, large permanent settlements often associated with defensive positions such as hilltops or river bends, are located in the area. The term oppidum probably comes from the Roman word for enclosed space, and these sites are typified by early planned architectural features. Very close to Caunes is the Oppidum du Cros with signs of occupation up to around 600 BC.
Certainly the Greeks and Romans knew the region and traded through it towards Spain and there is evidence of the Romans in the vicinity of Caunes today. There is a Roman bridge over the l’Argent Double 300m north of Caunes, adjacent to the modern D620.
Abbey of St Peter and St Paul
The Church played a vital role in the security and stability of the early Languedoc and was key to the subsequent development and wealth of medieval Caunes. The Abbey at Caunes consists of the great church itself, cloisters and surrounding monastery buildings as well the old Abbot's residence. The complex has been referred to as a unique architectural ensemble. Throughout Caunes there are remains of the substantial walls of the Abbey enclosure as well as traces of grand buildings, now often lost in the walls of simpler houses.
Foundation and growth The Abbey of St. Peter & St. Paul was founded by a monk known as Anian or Anianus, a companion of Benedict of Anian in 790. Charlemagne confirmed the right to the land in 794 and the church was consecrated between 806 and 820. Benedict of Anian, the son of Languedocian nobleman, went on to formulate the strict code of the Benedictine order which was adopted in 817 under an edict from Charlemagne.Attwater, D. and John, C. The Penguin Dictionary of Saints. 3rd edition. New York: Penguin Books, 1995. . In fact, the Abbey founders soon adopted the order of the Benedictines themselves.
Effectively, so placed under the direct protection of the king, Charlemagne, the Abbey enjoyed many privileges. Charlemagne's heir, Charles the Bald gave substantial gifts of royal (fiscal) land to Caunes in 844. Even so, there are records of Caunes being forced to institute lawsuits in 855 and 875 before it was able to regain land taken from it by local landowners. As the authority of subsequent Carolingians became rather less respected in parts of the Midi and Catalonia, and it was necessary for Charles the Bald to renew the charter in 875. Similar charters were endorsed in nearby Lagrasse and Saint-Chaffre in 876. This stability and many donations from devotees allowed the abbots to procure land & properties.Duvernoy, J. 1976 (editor), written at Paris, Guillaume de Puylaurens, Chronique 1145-1275: Chronica magistri Guillelmi de Podio Laurentii, CNRS, . Text and French translation. Reprinted: Toulouse: Le Pérégrinateur, 1996
In 982, first mention is made of relics of four early Christian martyrs secured for the Abbey: those of Armand (Amand), Luce (Lucius), Audalde, and Alexandre (Alexander). These are still venerated and processed through the town, the feast day being June 6. The relics became objects of pilgrimage and brought further wealth from devotees, allowing the Carolingian Abbey to be rebuilt under Abbot William (1021–1059).
Albigensian Crusade The Abbey subsequently passed to the Counts of Barcelona and later through their bloodline to the Trencavel family. This family largely lost their lands and rights after their support of the Cathars in the Albigensian Crusade. During the crusade the Abbey received several representatives of the Pope, which came to preach the Catholic rites, underlining the importance of Caunes in the region. Because of its support of the Catholic Church during the crusade, the Abbey was also able to buy feudal lands from those who had been excommunicated as Cathar sympathisers.
Following many revolts and military reversals, the crusade was rejoined under Louis VIII in 1225 and Caunes was once more in the frame as a stronghold of the Catholic faith. Of particular note was the burning at the stake of the elderly Cathar Bishop or Perfect of Carcassonne, Pierre Isarn in 1226, witnessed by the King. This may have been the last significant scene of the crusade as it is said that the sickening example made of Isarn at Caunes was Louis VIII's last exploit in Southern France and he returned to Paris, dying en route in the Auvergne in November 1226.Guizot, F. 2006. A Popular History of France From The Earliest Times. pp 258-290. BiblioBazaar,
Later years