Jil Sander S.p.A. is a luxury fashion house founded in 1968 in Hamburg, Germany, and currently headquartered in Milan, Italy. Founded by Jil Sander, the brand is best known for its minimalist and clean designs. The brand was acquired by Prada in 1999 and Sander subsequently departed her eponymous label due to creative differences.Petra Kappl Designer In Reticence", nytimes.com, 26 May 2002. After several changes of ownership, the Jil Sander brand was acquired by Italian fashion group OTB in March 2021. Simone Bellotti is the creative director.
History Beginnings Founded by Jil Sander in 1968, the company's first womenswear collection was launched in 1973, menswear followed in 1997.style.com - Jil Sandernymag.com - Jil Sander Her first collection – there was just one of each item – sold out in a week.Tamsin Blanchard (11 January 2004), Clean and serene The Guardian. From 1974, she sold her own collections alongside fashion by Sonia Rykiel, Thierry Mugler and others. The first fragrance – Woman Pure – was launched in 1979.Genevieve Buck (September 14, 1994), Jil Sander Designs Expansion Chicago Tribune. Jil Sander herself became the face of the fragrance. During those years, all of the brand's boutiques were designed by New York architect Michael Gabellini.Genevieve Buck (September 14, 1994), Jil Sander Designs Expansion Chicago Tribune.
In the 1980s, Sander presented her collections at the Milan fashion shows. With fashion alone, the company made a turnover of 20 million marks in 1981.
The company went public and was listed on the Frankfurt stock exchange in 1989; in the process, Sander herself sold a one-third ownership for $56 million while retaining control over the voting shares. Also in 1989, the company established a manufacturing site in Ellerau, near Hamburg.Jil Sander: Angst um Jobs in der Produktion Ellerau Die Welt, 1 September 1999.
The 1990s are considered to be the heyday of the Jil Sander brand. Flagship stores were built in Tokyo, Hong Kong and Taipei, and Sander worked on the design in collaboration with Gabellini and other architects. In 1993 a flagship store was added on Avenue Montaigne in Paris. In 1995, the company moved into two 18th-century palazzi on Harvestehuder Weg, overlooking the Außenalster lake in the north of Hamburg; they were redesigned by Gabellini.Brigitte Blobel (12 March 1999), Ein weißes Château für die Haute Couture Hamburger Abendblatt.
In 1992, the designer Roberto Menichetti was hired as Sander's assistant for the women's collection. The footwear collaboration between Jil Sander and Puma from 1996 onwards goes back to his and Sanders' designs – the designer sneaker King was first presented in 1996,Richard Benson (25 January 2006), A fresh chapter in the trainer wars The Guardian. the Easy Rider model followed in 1997. It was the first collaboration between a luxury designer and a sports equipment brand. In 1997, Jil Sander launched the men's fashion collection; Menichetti also contributed to these designs.Adrian Clark (9 July 1999), 21st century boys The Guardian. Men's fashion soon contributed around 20 percent to group sales.
Also in 1997, Jil Sander established Tailor Made, a line of hand-tailored classic suits in luxury fabrics in limited quantities.Anne-Marie Schiro (29 April 1997), For the Rich, a New High End New York Times.
Prada, 1999–2006 In 1999, Prada Group bought a 75 percent share in the company, for which it reportedly paid more than $100 million.Eric Wilson (24 February 2006), Private Equity Group to Buy Jil Sander Label From Prada New York Times. It later increased that stake to 98 percent.Miles Socha (24 February 2006), Strategy for Jil Sander: Buyer to Grow Brand, Sell It in 3 to 5 Years Women's Wear Daily. At the time, Sander said publicly that she partnered with Prada in large part to expand her brand's accessories business.Ginia Bellafante (25 January 2000), Jil Sander is divorcing Prada. After next month's fall women's collection in Milan, she plans to leave her signature company. New York Times. Six months later, Sander departed the company as chairwoman and creative director, and nearly all the design and production staff left as well.Cathy Horyn (27 May 2005), Prada Hires a Men's Wear Designer to Direct Its Jil Sander Division New York Times. The company, which had been profitable before the sale to Prada, lost money in 2001 and 2002.
In 2003, Sander returned to the brand as creative director, for a six-year contract.Sander and Bertelli: Together Once Again and Ready to Grow Women's Wear Daily, 23 May 2003. As part of the deal, she got to sit on Prada’s strategic committee, alongside Bertelli and Miuccia Prada. She was also given the option to join Jil Sander’s board at a later stage. However she decided to leave again 18 months later.
A restructuring that began in 2004 led Prada to predict that the Jil Sander brand would break even by 2006. The brand's only German production site in Ellerau – with a total of around 160 employees – was closed in 2005.Corinna Visser (24 February 2006), Britischer Investor kauft Jil Sander Der Tagesspiegel. All production has since been taking place in Italy.Amanda Kaiser (9 March 2005), Sander to Meet on Production Move Women's Wear Daily. The company’s net loss further widened to 29.6 million euros ($37 million) in 2004Amanda Kaiser (5 May 2005), Prada Says Sander in Red, Considering Lang Sale Women's Wear Daily. and to 37.3 million euros ($46.3 million) in 2005.Amanda Kaiser (30 May 2006), Jil Sander Loss Hits $46.3 Million in 2005 Women's Wear Daily.
In February 2005, the long-standing in-house design team and Sander’s longtime stylist, Joe McKenna, presented the first Jil Sander collection since the founder’s departure. In May 2005, it was announced that Raf Simons had become creative director for the women's and men's collection. Simons wanted to "strip it down so there was nothing that wasn't necessary". Suzy Menkes, the principal fashion writer for the International Herald Tribune, said that some items in the collection "made exceptional pieces" but overall it "was not as strong as before." The Fall/Winter collection, however, received accolades from IHT. Simons' first women’s collection was shown at Milan Fashion Week in 2006. The collection received a positive review from the Evening Standard and the Los Angeles Times.
Change Capital, 2006–2009 In 2006, Luc Vandevelde's London-based private equity firm Change Capital Partners LLP bought the company from Prada for an undisclosed sum thought to be about £68 million.Julia Kollewe (24 February 2006), Vandevelde snaps up Jil Sander for £68m The Independent.Bloomberg - Prada Sells Jil Sander to Vandevelde's Change Capital It also gave equity in the company to Simons, along with two top managers.
At that point, the Telegraph reported that the company was in better shape financially. Prada CEO Patrizio Bertelli said: "As we focus on the development of the Prada and Miu Miu brands, I am certain that Change Capital Partners will be able to provide the necessary investment to further grow the Jil Sander business." Raf Simons remained creative director at Jil Sander. Under Change Capital ownership, the company moved from negative ebitda of €12.9 million in 2005 to positive ebitda of €6.1 million in 2007.Andrew Roberts (29 July 2008), Jil Sander Said for Sale Women's Wear Daily.Gwen Robinson (2 September 2008), Onward fashions deal for Jil Sander Financial Times.
In July 2008, Jil Sander finalized its squeeze-out, initially set in motion in 2006, and fully delisted a remaining two percent stake from the Frankfurt Stock Exchange.Alessandra Ilari (1 September 2008), Jil Sander Undergoes Another Major Change: New Ownership Women's Wear Daily.
Onward Holdings, 2008–2021 In September 2008, Onward Holdings Co. Ltd. (), a Japanese multi-brand fashion conglomerate, and its European subsidiary GIBO' CO. S.p.A. acquired unlisted Violine S.à r.l., a Luxembourg-based holding firm that had the Jil Sander brand under its wing, for 167 million euros (US$244 million).Jil Sander returns to fashion with Uniqlo The Telegraph, 23 March 2009Change Capital Partners to sell Jil Sander to Onward and GIBO Change Capital Partners, 1 September 2008Silvia Ognibene (19 June 2010), Jil Sander says full recovery could be years out Reuters.
In 2019, Jil Sander collaborated with Mackintosh on a series of functional outerwear pieces and accessories.Maisie Skidmore (20 October 2022), Linda Tegg creates a living installation for Jil Sander at its Milanese HQ Wallpaper.
OTB Group, 2021–present In March 2021, OTB Group acquired 100 percent of the Jil Sander brand.Luisa Zargani (March 5, 2021), OTB Acquires Jil Sander Brand Women's Wear Daily. In September 2021, Ubaldo Minelli, CEO of OTB, was also appointed CEO of the brandhttps://wwd.com/business-news/human-resources/jil-sander-new-ceo-1234926375/.
In 2022, Jil Sander launched Indulgence, a new line of apparel and accessories characterized by high-end fabrics, plush textures and buttery colors.Sandra Salibian (17 November 2022), A Look Into Jil Sander’s ‘Indulgence’ Line Women's Wear Daily.
In early 2025, Luke and Lucy Meier departed from the brand. Simone Bellotti, formerly creative director of Swiss brand Bally, was appointed as their successor.
Leadership Designers Jil Sander: 1968–2000, 2003–2004, 2012–2013 Milan Vukmirovic: 2000–2003 Raf Simons: 2005–2012 Pauric Sweeney: 2005–2012 Rodolfo Paglialunga: 2014–2017Luisa Zargani (15 March 2017), Jil Sander Confirms Exit of Rodolfo Paglialunga Women's Wear Daily.Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga leaves Jil Sander Associated Press, 15 March 2017. Lucie Meier and Luke Meier: 2017–2025 Jacob Gallagher (26 February 2025), Another Sudden Departure Hits the Fashion World New York Times. Simone Bellotti: 2025-Present
CEOs Roland Böhler: 1993–1998 Aurelio Giorgini: 1998–1999Giorgini To Take Bohler’s Post At Jil Sander Women's Wear Daily, 16 July 1998. Patrizio Bertelli: 1999–2004Ferraris Leaves Gucci Women's Wear Daily, 28 May 2004. Gian Giacomo Ferraris: 2004–2009Alessandra Ilari (9 June 2009), Jil Sander Taps New CEO Women's Wear Daily. Alessandro Cremonesi: 2009–2015Luisa Zargani (23 June 2015), Jil Sander Said Naming New CEO Women's Wear Daily.Silvia Ognibene (19 June 2010), Jil Sander says full recovery could be years out Reuters. Alessandra Bettari: 2015–2018 Axel Keller: 2018–2023Alessandra Turra (8 October 2018), EXCLUSIVE: Jil Sander Taps Axel Keller as New CEO Women's Wear Daily. Ubaldo Minelli: 2021–2023Luisa Zargani (15 September 2021), Jil Sander Has a New CEO Women's Wear Daily. Luca Lo Curzio: 2023–2025Luisa Zargani (2 May 2023), Jil Sander Names Luca Lo Curzio Brand CEO Women's Wear Daily. Serge Brunschwig: 2025Elisa Anzolin (5 February 2025), Fendi CEO Serge Brunschwig to head up Jil Sander Reuters.Luisa Zargani (30 July 2025), Jil Sander CEO Serge Brunschwig Steps Down Women's Wear Daily.
Locations As of August 2022, Jil Sander operates 42 stores in Europe, Asia, and North America, including in London, Frankfurt, Milan, Paris, Zurich, Tokyo, Seoul, Shanghai, and New York City.
Other projects Fragrances