Vladyslav "Slava" Oleksandrovych Terzyul (; 18 June 1953 in Artyom, Primorsky Krai, Soviet Union – 17 May 2004, Makalu), was a Ukrainian alpinist.
Terzyul was known for his alpine-style ascents, and without using bottled oxygen.
He is said to be one of the few people to have climbed all 14 of the eight-thousandersDescription and photos of all the eight-thousander ascentsRussianclimb, Terzyul and the first Ukrainian to do so. This claim is disputed as he reached false summits on both Shishapangma (8027m) and Broad Peak, summiting at Shishapangma Central (8013m) and the Forehead (8028m) respectively.
On May 17, 2004, Terzyul and American Jay Sieger summited Makalu together via the west ridge, said to be one of the hardest routes of ascent up the mountain and one of the least summited. As they began the descent, Sieger died when his head struck rocks at an altitude of about 8,300 meters. Terzyul was lost on descent from the summit. The cause of his death is unknown and his body has not been found.
Eight-thousanders 1993 – Kanchenjunga, east ridge, International Expedition 1994 – K2, Abruzzi route, Ukrainian Expedition/Odessa Alpine Club 1995 – Broad Peak Forepeak, west edge and north ridge, International Expedition 1996 – Gasherbrum II, classic route, International Expedition 1996 – Annapurna, northwest ridge, new route, Polish International Expedition 1997 – Nanga Parbat, 1997, Diamir face, Ukrainian Expedition 1999 – Everest, classic route from the north, Ukrainian National Expedition 2000 – Shishapangma Central, classic route. Ukrainian National Expedition 2000 – Cho Oyu, classic route, solo 2001 – Manaslu, southeast ridge, new route, Ukrainian National Expedition 2002 – Lhotse, Odessa Alpclub expedition 2002 – Dhaulagiri 2003 – Gasherbrum I 2004 – Makalu, west ridge, died during the descent.EverestNews, Sad results on Makalu: 1 missing climber and 1 passed away on Makalu Update
Memorials Terzyul's accomplishments have had particular resonance in Ukraine.
In 2010, the Ukrainian expedition "Ukraine-Makalu-2010", led by Valentin Simonenko, set out to climb Makalu in Terzyul's memory. The team summited the mountain on May 23, without the use of oxygen or porters.
His mountaineering feats inspired Ukrainian artist Andryi Shmyrin to develop a series of large scale paintings, of the world's highest peaks in his memory. In 2018, Shmyrin and Kiev's Lera Litvinova Gallery exhibited 14 eight-thousanders dedicated to Terzyul's memory.
Terzyul14 Project In 2021, Ukrainian-American climber Yulia Zi set out to climb Broad Peak in Terzyul's memory after learning he did not reach the main summit of this mountain by mistake. Her climb became part of the Terzyul14 Project, a mixed media project dedicated to raising awareness about Terzyul's accomplishments. Zi ultimately had to abandon her summit attempt on Broad Peak at 7,500 meters due to avalanche risk.
Other aspects of the project included an awareness campaign, around the hashtag #terzyul14, a book translation and a documentary film project by Director Iryna Pravylo and Right Time Studios.
References
External links Vladislav Terzyul Web Site Climbing list The death Broad peak: Terzyul14 project (in Ukrainian) Biography of Terzyul by his daughter Julia Terzyul