A skirt is the lower part of a dress or a separate outer garment that covers a person from the waist downwards.
At its simplest, a skirt can be a draped garment made out of a single piece of fabric (such as pareos). However, most skirts are fitted to the body at the waist and fuller below, with the fullness introduced by means of darts, gores, pleats, or panels. Modern skirts are usually made of light to mid-weight fabrics, such as denim, jersey, worsted, or poplin. Skirts of thin or clingy fabrics are often worn with slips to make the material of the skirt drape better and for modesty.
In modern times, skirts are commonly worn by women and girls. Some exceptions include the izaar, worn in multiple Muslim cultures, and the kilt, a traditional men's garment in Scotland, Ireland, and England.
The hemline of skirts can vary from micro to floor-length and can vary according to cultural conceptions of modesty and aesthetics as well as the wearer's personal taste, which can be influenced by such factors as fashion and social context. Most skirts are complete garments, but some skirt-looking panels may be part of another garment such as leggings, shorts, and swimsuits.
History Prehistory and ancient history
Skirts have been worn since prehistoric times as the simplest way to cover the lower body. Figurines produced by the Vinča culture (–4500 BC) located on the territory of present-day Serbia and neighboring Balkans from the start of the Copper Age show women in skirt-like garments.
A straw-woven skirt dating to 3900 BC was discovered in Armenia at the Areni-1 cave. Skirts were the standard attire for men and women in all ancient cultures in the Near East and Egypt. The Sumerians in Mesopotamia wore kaunakes (, ultimately from ),Unknown a type of fur skirt tied to a belt. The term originally referred to a sheep's fleece, but eventually came to be applied to the garment itself. Eventually, the animal pelts were replaced by "kaunakes cloth", a textile that imitated fleecy sheepskin.Boucher, Francois (1987): 20.000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. New York: Harry N. Abrams Kaunakes cloth also served as a symbol in religious iconography, such as in the fleecy cloak of John the Baptist.The Bible: Genesis 12:4-5Roberts, J.M. (1998): The Illustrated History of the World. Time-Life Books. Volume 1. p. 84
Ancient Egyptian garments were mainly made of linen. For the upper classes, they were beautifully woven and intricately pleated.Barber, Elisabeth J.W. (1991): Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean. Princeton: Princeton University Press. p.12 Around 2130 BC, during the Old Kingdom of Egypt, men wore wraparound skirts (kilts) known as the shendyt. They were made of a rectangular piece of cloth wrapped around the lower body and tied in front. By the Middle Kingdom of Egypt, longer skirts, reaching from the waist to ankles and sometimes hanging from the armpits, became fashionable. During the New Kingdom of Egypt, kilts with a pleated triangular section became fashionable for men.Rief Anawalt, Patricia (2007): The Worldwide History of Dress. London: Thames & Hudson. p. 25 Beneath these, a shente, or triangular loincloth whose ends were fastened with cord ties, was worn.Rief Anawalt, Patricia (2007): The Worldwide History of Dress. London: Thames & Hudson. p. 24
During the Bronze Age, in the Southern parts of Western and Central Europe, wraparound dress-like garments were preferred. However, in Northern Europe, people also wore skirts and blouses.Koch-Mertens, Wiebke (2000): Der Mensch und seine Kleider: Die Kulturgeschichte der Mode bis 1900. Artemis & Winkler: Düsseldorf Zürich. pp. 49-51
Early modern history
In the Middle Ages, men and women preferred dress-like garments. The lower part of men's dresses were much shorter in length compared to those for women. They were wide cut and often pleated or gored so that horse riding was more comfortable. Even a knight's armor had a short metal skirt below the breastplate. It covered the straps attaching the upper legs iron cuisse to the breastplate. Technological advances in weaving in the 13th–15th century, like foot-treadle floor looms and scissors with pivoted blades and handles, improved the tailoring of trousers and tights. They became fashionable for men and henceforth became standard male attire whilst becoming taboo for women.Tortora, Phyllis G. et al. (2014): Dictionary of Fashion. New York: Fairchild Books. p. 11Koch-Mertens, Wiebke (2000): Der Mensch und seine Kleider: Die Kulturgeschichte der Mode bis 1900. Artemis & Winkler: Düsseldorf Zürich. pp. 156-162
One of the earliest known cultures to have females wear clothing resembling miniskirts were the Duan Qun Miao (), which literally means "Short Skirt Miao". This was in reference to the short miniskirts "that barely cover the buttocks" worn by women of the tribe, and which were probably shocking to observers in premodern and early modern times.
In the Middle Ages, some upper-class women wore skirts over three meters in diameter at the bottom. At the other extreme, the miniskirts of the 1960s were minimal garments that may have barely covered the underwear when the woman was seated. Costume historians typically use the word "petticoat" to describe skirt-like garments of the 18th century or earlier.
19th century
During the 19th century, the cut of women's dresses in western culture varied more widely than in any other century. Waistlines started just below the bust (the Empire silhouette) and gradually sank to the natural waist. Skirts started fairly narrow and increased dramatically to the hoopskirt and crinoline-supported styles of the 1860s; then fullness was draped and drawn to the back by means of bustles. In the 1890s, the rainy daisy skirt was introduced for walking or sportswear. It had a significantly shorter hemline, measuring as much as six inches off the ground, and eventually influenced the wider introduction of shorter hemlines in the early 20th century.
In the 19th century, in the United States and United Kingdom, there was a movement against skirts as part of the Victorian dress reform movement, and in the United States, the National Dress Reform Association. There was also the invention of different ways to wear skirts. For example, in 1851, early women's rights advocate Elizabeth Smith Miller introduced Amelia Bloomer to a garment initially known as the "Turkish dress", which featured a knee-length skirt over Turkish-style pantaloons. Bloomer came to advocate and promote the dress, including instructions for making it, in The Lily, a newspaper dedicated to the "Emancipation of Woman from Intemperance, Injustice, Prejudice, and Bigotry". This inspired a craze for the dress, which came to be known as bloomers. Elizabeth Cady Stanton, Susan B. Anthony, and Lucy Stone, other early advocates for women's rights, also adopted this style of dress in the 1850s, referring to it as the "freedom dress". Concurrently, some female labourers, notably the pit brow women working at coal pits in the Wigan area, began wearing trousers beneath a short skirt as a practical component of their uniform. This attracted the attention of the public, and various photographers produced records of the women's unconventional manner of dress through the mid to late 19th century.
20th and 21st centuries
Fashion designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, Kenzo and Marc Jacobs have also shown men's skirts. Transgressing social codes, Gaultier frequently introduces the skirt into his men's wear collections as a means of injecting novelty into male attire, most famously the sarong seen on David Beckham.Fogg, Marnie (2011) The Fashion Design Directory. London: Thames & Hudson. p.165,316
Styles
Lengths + Image Name Description Maxi skirt An ankle-length daytime skirt, popular with women in the late 1960s as a reaction against miniskirts. Midi skirt A skirt with hem halfway between ankle and knee, below the widest part of the calf. Popularized by designers in 1967 as a reaction to very short mini skirts.Knee-length skirtA skirt which approximately reaches the knee. Miniskirt Sometimes hyphenated as mini-skirt, separated as mini skirt, or shortened to simply mini, a miniskirt is a skirt with its hemline well above the knees, generally at mid-thigh level, normally no longer than below the buttocks. Microskirt A shorter version of the miniskirt, called the microskirt or micro-mini, which emerged toward the end of the 1960s. High-low skirt A skirt with an asymmetrical hemline.
Basic types + Image Name Description A-line skirt A skirt that is fitted at the hips and gradually widens towards the hem, giving the impression of the shape of a capital letter A.Women's Wear Daily: Glossary Bell-shaped skirt A bell-shaped skirt, flared noticeably from the waist but then, unlike a church bell, cylindrical for much of its length. Circle skirt A skirt cut in sections to make one or more circles with a hole for the waist, so the skirt is very full but hangs smoothly from the waist without darts, pleats, or gathers. Culottes A form of divided skirt, split skirt, or pantskirt constructed like a pair of shorts, but hanging like a skirt. Full skirt A skirt with fullness gathered into the waistband. Gored skirt A skirt that fits through the waistline and flares at the hem. May be made from four to twenty-four shaped sections. Dates from the 14th century and much used in the 19th century. Very popular in the late 1860s, mid-1890s, early 20th century, 1930s, 1940s, and now worn as a classic skirt style.Tortora, Phyllis G. et al. (2014): Dictionary of Fashion. New York: Fairchild Books. pp. 370-374 Inverted pleated skirt A skirt made by bringing two folds of fabric to a center line in front and/ or back. May be cut straight at sides or be slightly flared. Has been a basic type of skirt since the 1920s. Pleated skirt A skirt with regular pleats or folds, which can be stitched flat to hip-level or free-hanging. Slit skirt/Split skirt A skirt that has one or more slits (or splits). Pencil skirt A slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or is just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit. It is named for its shape: long and slim like a pencil. Underskirt Simple, basic skirt over which an overskirt, or drapery, hangs. Wrap or wraparound skirt A skirt that wraps around the waist with an overlap of material.
Some non-basic types