Bhanu Athaiya (née Rajopadhye; 28 April 192915 October 2020) was an Indian costume designer and painter. She was the first Indian to win an Academy Award. Alongside being Bollywood's most iconic costume designer, she had a historically important early career as an artist with contemporaries like M. F. Husain, F. N. Souza and Vasudeo S. Gaitonde.Ranjit Hoskote, Bhanu Rajopadhye Athaiya:The Legacy of a Long-hidden Sun, Academia, December 2020 She was the only woman member of the Bombay Progressive Artists' Group.Before Bhanu Athaiya, the Oscar-winning designer, there was Bhanu Athaiya, the modernist painter. Scroll. Jul 31, 2018 Two of Bhanu Rajopadhye's artworks were included in the 1953 Progressive Artists' Group show in Bombay.1953 Progressive Artists' Group Exhibition Catalogue
After her switch from art to cinema, Bhanu went on to become one of the leading creators of the aesthetic of a young India through her work on costumes for Bollywood films. She worked on over 100 films, with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, notably in films like C.I.D. (1956), Pyaasa (1957), Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962), Guide (1965), Amrapali (1966), Teesri Manzil (1966), Satyam Shivam Sundaram (1979), Razia Sultan (1983), Chandni (1989), Lekin... (1990), 1942: A Love Story (1993), Lagaan (2001), and Swades (2004). She also worked on international projects with directors such Conrad Rooks in Siddhartha (1972) and Richard Attenborough in Gandhi (1982).
For Gandhi, Bhanu won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design and was nominated for a BAFTA Award for Best Costume Design.
She was honored in the 'In memoriam' segment of the 93rd Academy Awards.
Early life and background Bhanu was born into a Marathi Brahmin family in Kolhapur (in present-day Maharashtra). She was the third of seven children born to Annasaheb and Shantabai Rajopadhye. Athaiya's father, Annasaheb was a self-taught artist and photographer who worked in the films of Baburao Painter. He died when Athaiya was 11 years old.
She studied at Sir J J School of Art, Mumbai, where she won the Usha Deshmukh Gold medal in 1951 for the artwork titled 'Lady In Repose'.
Career Bhanu started her career as an artist in Mumbai while still studying at JJ School of Art. Later she became a member of the Progressive Artists' Group and exhibited with them.Bhanu Athaiya Estate Sale Catalogue December 2020 She continued her part-time stint as a freelance fashion illustrator for women's magazine like "Eve's Weekly" and "Fashion & Beauty". while at the JJ School of Art.Bhanu's Eve's Weekly Spread Pages, Bhanu Athaiya Estate Auction December 2020 Later when the Eve's Weekly editor opened a boutique, she asked Athaiya to try designing dresses, hereupon she discovered her flair for designing clothes. Her success as a designer soon led to her switching career paths. Her costume designing career began by designing clothes for Guru Dutt's films, starting with C.I.D. (1956). She soon became a part of the Guru Dutt team.Guru Dutt: A Life in Cinema, by Nasreen Munni Kabir. Published by Oxford University Press, 1996. . pp 117-118.
She made her debut as a film costume designer with the film C.I.D. in 1956, and followed it up with other Guru Dutt films such as Pyaasa (1957), Chaudhvin Ka Chand (1960) and Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam (1962). In her career spanning 50 years she has received numerous awards. She won the Academy Award for Best Costume Design (shared with John Mollo) for her work in the 1982 film, Gandhi and became the first Indian to win an Academy Award. She also won two National Film Awards, in 1991 and 2002.
In a career spanning over 100 films, she worked with Indian filmmakers such as Guru Dutt, Yash Chopra, B.R. Chopra, Raj Kapoor, Vijay Anand, Raj Khosla, and Ashutosh Gowariker, and international directors such Conrad Rooks and Richard Attenborough.
In March 2010, Athaiya released her book The Art of Costume Design, published by HarperCollins. On 13 January 2013, Athaiya presented a copy of the book to the Dalai Lama.
On 23 February 2012, it was reported that Athaiya wished to return her Academy Award to the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences because she felt that her family will not be able to take care of the trophy after her demise. On 15 December 2012, it was confirmed that the trophy had been returned to The Academy.
In April 2021, as part of the New York Times "Overlooked" series of obituaries that were not written at the time of the person's death (in this case, October 2020), Anita Gates wrote an obituary of Athaiya. In it, Athaiya is quoted about her work on Gandhi: "Richard Attenborough was making a complex film and needed someone who knew India inside out," Athaiya told Eastern Eye, a British weekly newspaper, in an interview published last year. "So much had to be contributed, and I was ready for it."
An exhibition titled "People of Mumbai", at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (CSMV), Mumbai, showcases Bhanu Athaiya’s contributions to Modern Art and Indian cinema through a display of both her art and costume designs. Among the exhibits is the famous orange saree-dress worn by actress Mumtaz in Brahmachari (1968), a look that became emblematic of 1960s Bollywood style. The display included a rare work on Canvas from her Progressive Artists' Group days, loaned by Prinseps.
Personal life
Bhanu married a lyricist and poet, Satyendra Athaiya, in the 1950s. Subsequently in 1959, she changed her name from Bhanumati to Bhanu Athaiya. Satyendra died in 2004.
In 2012, Bhanu was diagnosed with a brain tumour, which eventually lead to her suffering paralysis on one side of the body and was bed-ridden for the last three years of her life. She died on October 15, 2020, in Mumbai at the age of 91, at a medical centre in South Mumbai. She is survived by her daughter Radhika Gupta.
Awards and nominations Year Award Film/Artwork Result Ref.1951Usha Deshmukh Gold Medal - JJ School of ArtLady In Repose1983Academy Award for Best Costume DesignGandhi1983BAFTA Award for Best Costume DesignGandhi1991National Film Award for Best Costume DesignLekin...2002National Film Award for Best Costume DesignLagaan2009Filmfare Lifetime Achievement Award2013Laadli Lifetime Achievement Award
Filmography Source(s): Year Title2015Nagrik2008Phir Kabhi2004 Swades2001 Lagaan: Once Upon a Time in India2001 Dhyaas Parva2000 Dr. Babasaheb Ambedkar1995 Prem1995 The Cloud Door (Himmelspforte, Die)1995 Oh Darling! Yeh Hai India1993 1942: A Love Story1993 Sahibaan1993 Parampara1991 Henna1991 Ajooba 1990 Lekin...1990 Agneepath1989 Chandni1988 Hero Hiralal1987 Kaash1986 Sultanat1985 Ram Teri Ganga Maili1985 Faasle1985 Salma1985 Yaadon Ki Kasam1984 Tarang1983 Razia Sultan1983 Pukar1982 Gandhi1982 Prem Rog1982 Nikaah1981 Biwi-O-Biwi: The Fun-Film1981 Hotel1981 Rocky1980 Insaaf Ka Tarazu1980 Agreement1980 The Burning Train1980 Karz1980 Abdullah1979 Meera1979 Mr. Natwarlal1979 Suhaag1979 Jaani Dushman1978 Satyam Shivam Sundaram: Love Sublime1978 Karmayogi1978 Shalimar1978 Ghar1978 Ganga Ki Saugandh1977 Alaap1977 Aaina1977 Ab Kya Hoga1976 Udhar Ka Sindur1976 Hera Pheri1976 Mehbooba1976 Nagin1976 Aaj Ka Mahaatma1976 Chalte Chalte1976 Do Anjaane1975 Aakraman1975 Kala Sona1975 Dharam Karam1975 Prem Kahani1974 Chor Machaye Shor1974 Bidaai1973 Dhund1973 Aaj Ki Taaza Khabar1973 Keemat1973 Anamika1973 Bandhe Haath1972 Siddhartha1972 Dastaan1972 Raaste Kaa Patthar1972 Roop Tera Mastana1972 Apna Desh1972 Mere Jeevan Saathi1971 Tere Mere Sapne1971 Pyar Ki Kahani1971 Aap Aye Bahaar Ayee1971 Maryada1970 Johny Mera Naam1970 Himmat1970 Khilona1970 Mera Naam Joker1970 Maa Aur Mamta1969 Jeene Ki Raah1969 Intaquam1968 Brahmachari1967 Anita1967 Patthar Ke Sanam1967 Hare Kanch Ki Chooriyan1966 Amrapali1966 Baharen Phir Bhi Aayengi1966 Mera Saaya1966 Teesri Manzil1966 Budtameez1965 Guide1965 Janwar1965 Kaajal1965 Waqt1965 Mere Sanam1964 Dulha Dulhan1964 Leader1962 Sahib Bibi Aur Ghulam1961 Ganga Jamuna1961Jab Pyar Kisi Se Hota Hai1960 Chaudhvin Ka Chand1959 Dil Deke Dekho1959 Kaagaz Ke Phool1959 Kavi Kalidas1957 Pyaasa1956 C.I.D.
See also List of Indian winners and nominees of the Academy Awards
References
External links
Filmography at The New York Times